barrel block
- Thread starter glbpmc
- Start date
My personal oppinion would be yes, some guys will say that a properly piller bedded SA rem 700 will support a full 1.25" barrel 36" long. I don't see the point in stressing the action that much.
Another option would be to sleeve the action.
But your best bet for optimum accuracy would be a barrel block and free float the action.
Their are other options if you want to maintain that regular non blocked look live a V-block bedding system like the one that Darrel Holland uses in the next forum down look at the post titped "recoil lug needed" this subject is discussed s little and their are some great picAttached Thumbnails:
s of how Darrel Holland sets up his system. If the copy and paste doesen't work
Another option would be to sleeve the action.
But your best bet for optimum accuracy would be a barrel block and free float the action.
Their are other options if you want to maintain that regular non blocked look live a V-block bedding system like the one that Darrel Holland uses in the next forum down look at the post titped "recoil lug needed" this subject is discussed s little and their are some great picAttached Thumbnails:
s of how Darrel Holland sets up his system. If the copy and paste doesen't work
Where can I get a "center ground lug"?
I would think hard about a barrel block, with that long a barrel that is a lot of stress and barrel whip. I build a .338 RUM with a 30" barrel and used a U block instead of a V block,but you must buy a stock that is wide enough for the block.I used a Pac Nor 3 grove with the first 4" straight for the block.The barrel and action are free floated, only the 4" of the barrel touch the block.The whole thing is held in the stock with on 1/4" screw.I threaded the end of the 4" block area and installed a lug and spaner nut to hold the lug.This gun shoots 1/2" groups all day long.I have a brake on it and it kicks like a .308.I shoot a 180 Gr.Bil Tip at 3600 FPS a 225 Gr.SST at 3300 FPS.and a 300 Gr. Sierra HP match at 2975 FPS.I use 4831 for 180, H1000 for 225, and Retumbo for 300 Gr.
Preacher said:
I don't see how a different barrel lug would help. A properly bedded lug only makes contact on its rear surface, so how would that relieve stress on the action?
DocEd: Holland, Warner, and any number of others make nice recoil lugs. Warner's is hardened, so it won't work if you want to pin it.
robert
Preacher
Gold $$ Contributor
A thin Remington factory recoil lug set beside a Holland lug or the really thick Tubb lug
should show why they are capable of holding more tension than the thin ones..... especially if the front of the lug isn't bedded, and lets a really heavy barrel pull it away from contact if it's floated.
I always bed my Holland lugs full contact except the bottom area, it's just the way I do it, and it seems to work for me.
should show why they are capable of holding more tension than the thin ones..... especially if the front of the lug isn't bedded, and lets a really heavy barrel pull it away from contact if it's floated.
I always bed my Holland lugs full contact except the bottom area, it's just the way I do it, and it seems to work for me.
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