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Bald Eagle Rest

skeeljc

Gold $$ Contributor
I finally received my Bald Eagle cast iron Y-rest. It only took six months from order to receipt. I have to admit I am impressed with the quality. The machine work is excellent and almost all the threads are inch. There are some things I do not like so here is my list of modifications:

1. I reversed the sliding windage plate so the threaded pusher is on the left and the springs are on the right. I removed the silly cable assembly and cut the threaded end off. I cut a 5/16-18 thread on the piece I cut off so their knob will mount. I am impressed with how smooth the windage plate moves.

2. I mounted my 3" Protektor Square Ear bag. The angled side pieces will move out to accept the 5-3/4" Protektor bag if you remove one attaching screw from each side piece. The 2" channel width will accept the 2-1/4" wide Protektor bag.

3. I removed the thumbscrew from the forend stop and replaced it with a set screw because the thumbscrew interfered with the mariners wheel.

I am planning to bush the hole in the rear leg so it will accept a Sinclair 1/2-20 speed screw.

I really like the rack and pinion gross height adjuster. It is easy to add height even with a rifle in the rest.

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Looks like you need to dump some sand from the bag. Mine from
Protektor had a nasty hump in the middle even before squeezing
the ears in. Bald Eagles are still getting it done.
Thanks for the tip on removing sand. I am using the UrbanRifleman's 3D printed bag rider that attaches to a PT rail. It has runners on the sides. I sanded the runners on the bottom and sides so the bag rider slides smoothly. A coat or carnauba wax helps too.
 
I used the Bald Eagle today for the first time. Here are my findings:

1. The windage adjustment works well and it is really smooth. The sliding plate which is powdercoated sits on a film of grease and is contained by two side angle plates. When I took it apart to see how it was made I had a difficult time separating the sliding plate from the part it rides on. I don't know of it was the grease or if the parts are made super flat. The two springs that keep the sliding plate in contact with the pusher screw seem quite strong but turning the knob was very easy. I was planning to replace the knob but after using it I think I will keep it. The OEM springs were bent so I ordered new springs from McMaster Carr. I also ordered some lighter springs to try.

2. I really miss my Sinclair Speed Screw (the 1/2-20 version with the larger knob) so I ordered one. Now I have to bore out the back leg and install a bushing with a 1/2-20 thread.

3. The leg adjuster screws are easy to grip and the lock rings work very well.

4. The mariner's wheel turns smoothly. There is noticeable play between the Acme threaded shaft and the bushing so the top moves when the lock is released. This will not be a problem once I get the speed screw installed since the mariner's wheel will only be used for gross adjustment.

The Bald Eagle rest is a step up from the Caldwell Rock BR.
 
The OEM springs were bent so I ordered new springs from McMaster Carr. I also ordered some lighter springs to try.
I thought the same about the springs but they just hump up as
the side to side tension changes. I would think lighter springs
could hurt side movement under recoil. I was thinking about
going heavier.
 
I have shot off one of those for a few years with no issues. I removed the mariner's wheel to reduce the clutter and give more range of movement. Two items I added that really worked great are the speed screw you're already aware of, and a set of the 3" Stabilfeet. And agree with Butch's thoughts on the slippery cloth. WD

 
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Acme threaded post? quote:There is noticeable play between the Acme threaded shaft and the bushing so the top moves when the lock is released.
Which rest top are you referring to?
 
My windage screw got jerky so I cut the pointy end off, put a nut on it screwed out to the end and then drilled the end leaving a nice countersink. Then used a ball bearing. This gives a nice smooth action. Quick and easy. Follow?
 
So I was wondering why the windage plate springs were crooked. I found that the spring seats in the moving plate and the seats in the fixed block are different spacing. There is 0.100" difference between the spacing in the two parts! My fix is to machine new seats in the fixed block and turn the block over. Fixed!

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Looking at your pics gives me an idea. I might be able to
install guide rods with heavier springs. Winter project.
I thought about guide rods but once I corrected the position of the spring seats and installed new springs the springs remain straight right down to their solid height. The OEM springs are not well made and do not have ground ends. I ordered replacement springs from McMaster Carr. The part number is: 9657K349. The spring specs are: 0.36" OD x .051" wire dia. x 1.5" long (30.7 lbs./in.)

After using the rest I decided that heavier springs are not needed.
 
I did remove the sliding windage plate and cleaned off the grease. Both the sliding plate and the plate it sits on have milled surfaces. I set the sliding plate on a piece of 600 grit paper on a flat surface and moved it around enough to see a pattern in the painted surface. The plate looks to be very flat. I reassembled the plates with Magnalube-G grease.
 
Installing the Sinclair speed screw was super easy. My first thought was to bore out the leg and then install a 1/2-20 threaded bushing. Before undertaking all that I decided to just run a 1/2-20 tap through the existing 1/2-13 threads. You might be able to do this by hand but I was concerned about starting the tap straight so I set it upp in the mill. I used a four flute tap and powderd it through in a single pass. It worked beautifully. Now I have a dual threaded hole.

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