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Attempting to deprime LC 308 brass

bored184

Silver $$ Contributor
I have a batch of LC 308 brass that I can't deprime. What happens instead is I just push right through the primer leaving primer with a hole in it and the case stuck in the shell holder. I currently use a Hornady universal depriming tool that has always worked in the past but now I am wondering if I need to find a better depriming tool. Thoughts and suggestions please.
 
Couple of things. Check the diameter of the depriming pin. It should be about .075" for large flash hole cases. If it measures around .059, it is for small flash hole cases. The smaller pin would push through the primers more easily.
Check to see if the end of the depriming is pointed to some degree. You may be able to flatten out the end with a small file and get the primers out.
You are working against a heavy crimp on the primer pocket.
 
I have decapped a lot of military brass, 556, 308, 30-06. The only times I have had this is brass that went through a flood and we were experimenting to see if it was re-usable.
The crimp on a gi primer shouldn't be enough to cause this. Perhaps someone reloaded them and glued them in, that sounds crazy but it happens. Even then I don't think it was a problem de-capping for the guys who have done it.
 
Couple of things. Check the diameter of the depriming pin. It should be about .075" for large flash hole cases. If it measures around .059, it is for small flash hole cases. The smaller pin would push through the primers more easily.
Check to see if the end of the depriming is pointed to some degree. You may be able to flatten out the end with a small file and get the primers out.
You are working against a heavy crimp on the primer pocket.
This.
 
I have decapped a lot of military brass, 556, 308, 30-06. The only times I have had this is brass that went through a flood and we were experimenting to see if it was re-usable.
The crimp on a gi primer shouldn't be enough to cause this. Perhaps someone reloaded them and glued them in, that sounds crazy but it happens. Even then I don't think it was a problem de-capping for the guys who have done it.
I overheard a conversation at the range one time where a guy used superglue instead of clear nail polish as a moisture sealant.
 
What if you turn the cases upside down and put a dab of Kroil on the primer? It may not do much but it "may" help.
 
Couple of things. Check the diameter of the depriming pin. It should be about .075" for large flash hole cases. If it measures around .059, it is for small flash hole cases. The smaller pin would push through the primers more easily.
Check to see if the end of the depriming is pointed to some degree. You may be able to flatten out the end with a small file and get the primers out.
You are working against a heavy crimp on the primer pocket.
PIn measured .070". Looking at the point is a great idea!


Get a mighty armory decapping die
I have heard a number of good things about these so I went ahead and ordered one. I was impressed with how quickly I got a response back to my email.

I have had this issue and what sometimes helps is to raise the ram to put the decaying pin in contact with the primer then start tapping force to the handle.
I started doing this before I saw the responses. If I take it slow and steady it works much better.




Thanks for all the responses. I have a system that is currently working but I am down to my last pin until the new decapping die shows up.
 
Buy a Lee decapper and enjoy removing the crimped primers.

The Lee Decapper and Base is a great tool for easily removing crimped in primers from military cases. This system works by driving the primer out with a hammer.


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The problem is the brass got wet and then the primer sides got corroded to the brass case. Other than someone sharpened the decapping pin, even a crimped primer will come out. Your not running the handle real fast are you? Slow and steady gets it done if it's gonna happen. See the corrosion all the time on range pickup. Soon as I get it home I take the universal decapper to the 9mm. Ususally get a few of the punch thru's.
Frank
 
Buy a universal decap/primer die, better yet, get two. One for small rifle cartridges and one for the large primer and you will never have issue with depriming anything.
 
Reading the other replies I think the Lee "hammer" manual decapper is the best way to go. If that doesn't work, well......
Way back when I was impecunious reloader I used a Wamadet hydraulic decapper (UK) to reload Berdan primed cases. The flat priming punch of the Wamadet press worked well with Berdan primers and they were available. It was slow and messy but by God, it worked :)
Today, ever the frugal reloader I shudder at how much time it took for the savings achieved -- although when you don't have much money everything helps. But it was too much.
Point is, you will have to decide at which point it's just too much work for the payoff. Only you can make that call.
 
I have had this issue and what sometimes helps is to raise the ram to put the decaying pin in contact with the primer then start tapping force to the handle.
I would never advise tapping on a primer.
 
Check the diameter of the depriming pin. It should be about .075" for large flash hole cases. If it measures around .059, it is for small flash hole cases. The smaller pin would push through the primers more easily.
Check to see if the end of the depriming is pointed to some degree. You may be able to flatten out the end with a small file and get the primers out.
You are working against a heavy crimp on the primer pocket.

You're pushing the primer out from inside the cup of the anvil. Does that really make a difference? I realize the anvil is a stamped piece of brass, but it's pretty thick compared the primer cup. I can't see a pin puncturing the anvil (though I've been surprised before so...)
 
I'd stand the cases up and give each a shot of Free All penetrating oil. Let them sit for a couple of days.
 
I use Lee decapping die ... bought 3 ...if it breaks use a 5/64" drill, and drill a new hole in the decapping pin with the 5/64" drill. Use the 5/64" drill for a decapping pin. Score grind the twist drilling part, break off, round off end and loctite the 5/64" drill shank in the hole just drilled in the
decapping stem. Harbor Freight sells drills in 5 packs really cheap. For the 50BMG I made a decapping rod in a lathe and a big cup with the head size .8" recess to sit the case in and primer dia hole clear through. Put a plastic coffee lid under to catch the spent primers and residue. Smack the decapping with a 16 oz hammer, works great.
 

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