Arrow wood finish - low sheen satin finish

[Dimner]

I'm going to be using arrow wood on an English walnut stock that I have been working on from richards microfit.

I am in no rush to finish the rifle, I have all winter to play with the arrow wood finish. I have read alot of great info on how to apply the finish, but most of it applies to using it for building up a shiney semi or high gloss finish.

I'm looking for a very low gloss finish but a built up protecting finish at the same time. Need the protection for the Michigan's deer seasons that are not all that kind to wood stocks. Snow, wet, cold. And high humidity in the early season. Additionally, i am looking forward to being able to maintain the finish after every few seasons with some more oil rubbed jn.

thats the plan at least....

So what's the procedure to get a hand rubbed yet satin/low gloss finish? What grit should I stop on the bare wood? And how do I apply and/or buff/sand between coats?

 

[Preacher]

No need to sand between coats, just keep applying the oil...
Let it dry for a few days and repeat..
All the sanding should be done before the 1st coat of oil is applied..
After a dozen or more coats you can use a fine scotch brite pad to reduce the shine..

 

[Dimner]

Excellent! That's easy peasy. Just two follow up questions.

1) what grit would you suggest I stop my sanding prep at?

2) If you are versed in the scotch brite pad colors, would you use white or gray? For those who are interested. The colors, that I know of, starting from course to fine is Green, Maroon, Gray, and White.

 

[Preacher]

Excellent! That's easy peasy. Just two follow up questions.

1) what grit would you suggest I stop my sanding prep at?

2) If you are versed in the scotch brite pad colors, would you use white or gray? For those who are interested. The colors, that I know of, starting from course to fine is Green, Maroon, Gray, and White.

Go up in grit till it's where you want it. I usually stop at 600 but it sure can go more if you feel up to it..
White puts out a nice finish....

 

[jepp2]

Need the protection for the Michigan's deer seasons that are not all that kind to wood stocks. Snow, wet, cold. And high humidity in the early season.

I will defer to @Preacher on this one. But my limited experience with getting a stock wet that has been refinished with Arrow Wood finish, is that while it is easy to add new finish coats, it doesn't provide the weather protection against rain that some other finishes do.

 

[Dimner]

Well... I'm 10-12 coats in... possibly 15... Hard to keep track. And it seems like I have built up almost no finish on this rifle stock. There is no depth to the finish on the stock. It just looks.... oiled. Like a military stock.

I started by sanding to 600. Then I used mineral spirits to remove all the sanding dust. Then I applied the finish per the instructions using P400 wet dry. Two coats doing that. Then I did it two coats at P600. Then I just started applying it with only my hands. I apply to each area lightly and rub until mostly dry, then I move to the next. But after all these coats.... no buildup.

I chose not to fill in the pores fully, because that's how I wanted it. However, I'm thinking that was my mistake? Has the last dozen coats just been trying to fill those pores in a very inefficient manner? Arrow wood finish has given me the color/hue and grain pop I was looking for. So now I'm just ready to get this thing finished for protection. I want just a satin finish, so I'm thinking either I need to change my technique with Arrow wood, or just move to an oil based white on poly?

 

[clowdis]

You can brush the oil on until you have the grain filled and then sand it back down to the wood. You can mix your oil with Spar Varnish to help the drying. Once you have done this then you can start to build up the top coat. But until the wood has absorbed all it can and the grain is filled you can't get a nice built up oil finish.

 

[Preacher]

I will defer to @Preacher on this one. But my limited experience with getting a stock wet that has been refinished with Arrow Wood finish, is that while it is easy to add new finish coats, it doesn't provide the weather protection against rain that some other finishes do.

That is true, but none of the oils will be 100% waterproof.. Seen a lot of varnish type finish's raise really bad in real rough weather, and it is a lot easier to just rub a few more coats of oil into it like you mentioned.
A bunch of coats will repel quite a bit of water before it will damage the wood.

 

[Bob3700]

How long does it take a coat of Arrow oil finish to dry? I have applied a thin coat to my stock and 24 hrs later it has not dried. I have shaken the bottle vey aggressively before application.

 

[Dimner]

Here is where I am at. First pic is in a different light color (outdoor sunlight type bulb) coming from my lamp, than the 2nd two pics (warmish yellow bulb).







Any thoughts?

 

[22LRaddict]

More.....the pours need to be filled. I'm not familiar with the oil you are using. Keep applying and burnish off until pours are filled.

 

[CharlieNC]

How long does it take a coat of Arrow oil finish to dry? I have applied a thin coat to my stock and 24 hrs later it has not dried. I have shaken the bottle vey aggressively before application.

You still applied too thickly, vigorously wipe off the excess with a rag and let it dry overnight. One drop on your finger is enough for one side of the butt, or about five drops for an entire stock.

 

[Bob3700]

You still applied too thickly, vigorously wipe off the excess with a rag and let it dry overnight. One drop on your finger is enough for one side of the butt, or about five drops for an entire stock.

Thanks Charlie, will give that a try.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

I'd wet sand that sucker with thinned finish. Use about 400 grit wet/dry paper and thin the finish with mineral spirits. The sanding dust will mix with the finish and go a long way toward filling the pores. Once good and dry, lightly sand again and put a couple of coats of this on it. Nice looking stock!

CHEM-PAK GUN SAV'R CUSTOM OIL GUNSTOCK FINISH

Check out CHEM-PAK GUN SAV'R CUSTOM OIL GUNSTOCK FINISH available Online at Brownells Today and many more Stock Finishing products are available in our Tools & Cleaning Department.

www.brownells.com

 

[Dimner]

So here is what I tried last night... No idea if the extra steps were necessary or helped anything. I just decided the technique I was using was inefficient and not going to get me anywhere until my pores were filled. So I had to decide to go big or go home. Meaning, drastically alter my technique or just move to another topcoat finish. So.

I coated the stock 'heavily' with the arrow wood finish.

'heavily' as compared to the normal usage for this finish.

Normal usage: I shake the bottle up and then cover the mouth of the bottle with my thumb, flip the bottle to wet my thumb. This is what I will call a 'thumb' of finish. I usually use anywhere between 8-10 of those on the whole stock. Which allows me to hand rub/burnish the stock until it's fully dry to the touch.

Last night's heavy application: I used about 15-20 of these 'thumbs'. Applied everywhere. No rubbing in, just making sure that it's evenly covered. Then I let the stock hang for 2.5 hours. House temp 68*. After 2.5 hours. I wet a 1"x2" piece of P320 wet/dry paper and worked on a sand/finish slurry. Tonight I was pretty aggressive in making this slurry. I changed out my paper half a dozen times as it got clogged of slurry. At this point I really could feel the wood fibers in the slurry. Which I took as a good sign. Then I rubbed in the slurry for an hour while I watched some TV. I let it hang for another 1.5 hours then do a bit more rubbing for about 30 minutes. At this point it was close to dry with hand rubbing and burnishing. I actually got it drier than I was expecting. I hung the stock in our small 3/4 bathroom on the shower curtain rod and let it sit overnight.

This morning (6.5hrs later) it seems just a little more 'dry' but not all the way dry. I added a space heater to this small bathroom and shut the door. I'll leave the stock alone and note when it is truly dry to the touch. Then I will give it another 24 hours to cure fully. When that is done I plan to hand burnish off any remaining wood fibers or possibly burnish with brown or printer paper.

I'll post pics after this is done.

This stock, I would say, has a plethora of very deep pores, jefe.

 

[Dimner]

I'd wet sand that sucker with thinned finish. Use about 400 grit wet/dry paper and thin the finish with mineral spirits. The sanding dust will mix with the finish and go a long way toward filling the pores. Once good and dry, lightly sand again and put a couple of coats of this on it. Nice looking stock!

CHEM-PAK GUN SAV'R CUSTOM OIL GUNSTOCK FINISH

Check out CHEM-PAK GUN SAV'R CUSTOM OIL GUNSTOCK FINISH available Online at Brownells Today and many more Stock Finishing products are available in our Tools & Cleaning Department.

www.brownells.com

I like that idea of that spray can finish. I'm going to give the arrow wood a season to prove its self. The product you linked to was the other option I was considering before I went with Arrow Wood. Also, it's what I will use as a top coat if the Arrow wood if it doesn't provide the protection I'm looking for.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

I like that idea of that spray can finish. I'm going to give the arrow wood a season to prove its self. The product you linked to was the other option I was considering before I went with Arrow Wood. Also, it's what I will use as a top coat if the Arrow wood if it doesn't provide the protection I'm looking for.

It's surprisingly good stuff and very easy to use. Hard to beat, really. I'd take my time on it and give what you have PLENTY of time to cure before doing anything else. If you sand too early, it tends to pull out of the pores. Just give it a week and see where it is. Either that or wash it down in acetone to get most of it off and start over. It'll leave a good bit behind and what's left will dry mucho faster.

That aerosol is awesome, especially the satin. They have a high glass version too. You have to spray it in much lighter coats or it will run. But the satin, holds very well from runs. Just don't get crazy and follow the instructions.

I'd still get the pores filled as best you can. The aerosol will eventually fill them but you'll need to sand between coats and it'll end up looking like a finish that's "on top" if you get it that heavy. Get the pores filled, get it very dry and put a couple of light coats of the linked stuff down and see what you think. Just my two cents.

I'd use the satin. If you want high gloss, I'd start very over and use auto clear.

 

[Dimner]

If you sand too early, it tends to pull out of the pores.

Great advice. I will let it sit for a long time and just move on to another project: Install and color match a wooden length of pull extension on my T99 Arisaka. I'm 6'2" and all my height is in my torso and arms.

 

[Preacher]

I'd wet sand that sucker with thinned finish. Use about 400 grit wet/dry paper and thin the finish with mineral spirits. The sanding dust will mix with the finish and go a long way toward filling the pores. Once good and dry, lightly sand again and put a couple of coats of this on it. Nice looking stock!

CHEM-PAK GUN SAV'R CUSTOM OIL GUNSTOCK FINISH

Check out CHEM-PAK GUN SAV'R CUSTOM OIL GUNSTOCK FINISH available Online at Brownells Today and many more Stock Finishing products are available in our Tools & Cleaning Department.

www.brownells.com

Thats what the instructions say all right...But no thinning..

 

[SGK]

Use rottenstone to help fill in the grain. See this post here. I would have done all the sanding (to 2500 grit and a burnish with a chamois) BEFORE applying the finishing oil.