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Are action wrench's R & LT ,hand specific ?

Reading some reviews on a through the action, action wrench and one reviewer posted that he wished they made a LH version .
So, my question is, are the through the action ,action wrench's Rt. & Lt. hand specific ?
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/816232/ptg-mar-free-action-wrench-remington-700#ReviewHeader
 
They will work both ways unless they have the slot for the anti bind bolt..
If they do, just mill or file a groove on the other side..
 
If you intend to use a rear entry wrench to remove factory installed barrels....it's not your best option..& tread lightly!
 
Dans40X said:
If you intend to use a rear entry wrench to remove factory installed barrels....it's not your best option..& tread lightly!

And what is the best option?
 
ACTION WRENCH FOR SURGEON&700 ACTIONS Won't go wrong with this one No damage ...............
100-003-675WB
Surgeon Action Wrench



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I'll jump in here. PBike257, who advertises here, makes rear entry wrenches that he has hardened. I dare say they will remove any factory barrel/action. Some rear entry wrenches are stainless steel or carbon steel that have not been hardened. These type wrenches can be twisted or torqued, call it what you will on a factory barrel removal. I have never used port entry wrenches but I'd bet a wooden nickel you can do damage with one of these on a factory install. To answer the original post, when using a port entry wrench, then you do need a wrench to match the side whether that is left or right.
 
Uthink Uknow said:
I'll jump in here. PBike257, who advertises here, makes rear entry wrenches that he has hardened. I dare say they will remove any factory barrel/action. Some rear entry wrenches are stainless steel or carbon steel that have not been hardened. These type wrenches can be twisted or torqued, call it what you will on a factory barrel removal. I have never used port entry wrenches but I'd bet a wooden nickel you can do damage with one of these on a factory install. To answer the original post, when using a port entry wrench, then you do need a wrench to match the side whether that is left or right.

That's the wrench I have by PBike57. I should have mentioned that in my question. That being said, and that wrench being used, is there a better option?
 
If it is a super tight factory barrel, you first have to have a barrel vise that will hold it, then you might best be served by an external action wrench that clamps to the front of the action . Check Brownell's for the different versions. You can use a cheater on these wrenches without hurting them, though anything can be destroyed. In the worst cases, a relief groove may have to be machined in the barrel. also, a reasonable amount of heat on the action can help, too. For normal, target-type rifles, you shouldn't need anything other than a good rear entry wrench (I also endorse Pbike's wrenches) and a good quality barrel vise. Be sure to protect the finish with toilet paper tubes or soft metal shims.
 
Uthink Uknow said:
. To answer the original post, when using a port entry wrench, then you do need a wrench to match the side whether that is left or right.
The link I posted reviewed the rear entry wrench. I'll ask a known "smith" and see what he says.
 
A pipe wrench would suffice for some that needed a combination wrench or socket.

Hell,some can screw up an anvil with a feather duster....w/ ease!!!

My Brownells & WTC action & barrel wrenches/vises have worked for decades on multiple applications from Barnard P's,Remingtons,Springfield 03's, Garands,M14's, M1A's,M1Carbine's and the occasional '98 &
'96 Snauser.
 
Righty tighty, lefty loosy, Make sure the action wrench fits your action. Kelbleys sells a real nice one for any Remington clone.
 
Don said:
ACTION WRENCH FOR SURGEON&700 ACTIONS Won't go wrong with this one No damage ...............
100-003-675WB
Surgeon Action Wrench
material ---- Aluminum & use torque wrench's that have a 100 ft.lb. limit



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you should have posted a link to whatever site you copied that off of
 
Not counting my last post, the last two show the need for some adult supervision
If you don't have anything constructive to add here, go somewhere else
 
Well, you sort of dropped the gauntlet when, with the advice of two smiths, you chose to say you would ask a known smith. The use of tools, including action wrenches, is a personal preference issue. I think you'll find personal experience has much to do with which wrench is preferred. So ask your smith and let me see if I concur. Remember also there is a big difference in removing a factory barrel that has never been off and removing a BR barrel from a custom action, which is switched often and properly lubed. Good luck with your decision.

Let me add that most known smiths don't bother posting here because of caustic remarks when they do post.
 
http://forum.accurateshooter.com/index.php?topic=3762965.0

I think this link will work and will answer your questions about action wrenches and tools. I have nothing to gain by sending you this. I have a number of Pbike257 products and they all work well for me.

Earlier you mentioned known smiths and I answered with, well, it's posted above. Let me name a few very well known smiths that have left because of caustic retorts:
Jim Borden, Bill Calfee, Jerry Stiller. I can go on but you can see what I mean.

I went back to your original post and went to the Midway link showing the wrench you asked about. That is a poor example of an action wrench. In extreme cases, you can see the torquing of the action when under strain. One good feature of the style wrench that Pbike builds is that all the torque is concentrated in the handle and as the only contact with the action is directly behind the barrel, there is no strain on the action, scope, bedding. There are others who sell the style I prefer but few, if any, are hardened to the same degree. No one else will make one with the 1/2 inch socket end for a torque wrench and few make them with a hex end for a socket.
 

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