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Ar-15 build question

I am new to building and really having fun. I am not sure what buffer weight to use so I would really appreciate learning what you think. I am building a AR-15 - 6.5 Grendel - rifle length gas - 20 inch heavy.

Also, What brand of buffer does not make the spring "tanging" noise?
Thank you for any direction.
 
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JPSCS2-15 from JP Enterprises. (Tons of info on their website)

I would get a Spring pack from them so you can can tune/adjust.

Also, an SLR or Superlative Arms adjustable gas block is a must-have. (Clamp on style)
 
I am new to building and really having fun. I am not sure what buffer weight to use so I would really appreciate learning what you think. I am building a AR-15 - 6.5 Grendel - rifle length gas - 20 inch heavy.

Also, What brand of buffer does not make the spring "tanging" noise?
Thank you for any direction.
I gave my spring a liberal dose of thick silicon grease 20 years ago. It hasn’t “twanged” since.
 
I gave my spring a liberal dose of thick silicon grease 20 years ago. It hasn’t “twanged” since.
+1. I've used grease and just a coating of breakfree. With either, there no 'sprong'. I've used both standard issue coil spring and the silicon carbon steel flat wire ones.
 
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2 goals:

1. No ejector smear on case head. Fix - Buffer weights
2. Brass ejection to 3:00, aka 90 deg from rifle. (Muzzle 12:00) Fix - adjustable gas block or gas port diameter.

Buffers: H-H2. Whichever to eliminate ejector smears. Buffers make for only 10% manipulation results.
Gas Block: Go standard until it's necessary to go adjustable. How to decide after STD gas block install:

- Brass ejecting forward of the ejection port, prior to 2:45, is over gassed. Fix - Adj. gas block (2 types)
- Brass ejecting rearward, past 3:30 is under gassed. Fix - drill gas port diameter larger

Over gassed situation:

Option 1 - Restrictive style adjustable gas block. Most common style. "Aero Precision" has a good one. This style gas block reduces gas port diameter in barrel until only enough gas is needed to achieve 100% desired functionality. Rest of gas is vented out the barrel behind bullet.

Option 2 - Bleed off adjustable gas block. "Superlative Arms". Has both restrictive and bleed off modes. The bleed off mode works great. The restrictive mode does not. Choose this gas block if running a suppressor. The gas block bleeds off the extra gas out the gas block. Unlike the restrictive style gas block that uses extra gas to propel the bullet. Bleed off gas block will lend to less muzzle velocity. This bleed off gas block is also a last ditch effort to save a barrel with too large a gas port diameter.

Under gassed situation:

You must drill the gas port. Harbor freight has a numbered drill bit set. Use the smooth ends of the bits as a pin gauges, and the cutting ends to drill. Measure the smooth ends with a caliper. Adjust by .002" increments larger in bit size until desired functionality achieved. A dowel rod inserted into the barrel will prevent over drilling.

Notes:

A rifle with a clean receiver, properly oiled BCG, within the first 20-30rnds, will eject brass slightly forward. About 15 minutes on the "clock illustration". 100% desired functionality is a clean rifle ejecting brass to 2:45 and settling in at 3:00 ejection.
 
"Tanging Noise". Thats funny. Went to Army basic training in the 70's on the Buddy program. We're both Minnesota farm kid teenagers that did a lot of hunting together. We were side by side on the firing line. Both fired our first round from an M-16 and looked at each other with a dumb struck look on our faces. Both said yours sounds fine mine is making a "Tanging Noise"! :)
 
"Tanging Noise". Thats funny. Went to Army basic training in the 70's on the Buddy program. We're both Minnesota farm kid teenagers that did a lot of hunting together. We were side by side on the firing line. Both fired our first round from an M-16 and looked at each other with a dumb struck look on our faces. Both said yours sounds fine mine is making a "Tanging Noise"!
Exact same reaction I had! I thought the daggum thing broke! I even looked it over! :D:D:D:D
 
I too, was first exposed to the "sproing" in basic training.

My home build A2 rifle has less noise after a good coating of gun grease. Still able to detect the distinctive difference in sound on the last round.
 
2 goals:

1. No ejector smear on case head. Fix - Buffer weights
2. Brass ejection to 3:00, aka 90 deg from rifle. (Muzzle 12:00) Fix - adjustable gas block or gas port diameter.

Buffers: H-H2. Whichever to eliminate ejector smears. Buffers make for only 10% manipulation results.
Gas Block: Go standard until it's necessary to go adjustable. How to decide after STD gas block install:

- Brass ejecting forward of the ejection port, prior to 2:45, is over gassed. Fix - Adj. gas block (2 types)
- Brass ejecting rearward, past 3:30 is under gassed. Fix - drill gas port diameter larger

Over gassed situation:

Option 1 - Restrictive style adjustable gas block. Most common style. "Aero Precision" has a good one. This style gas block reduces gas port diameter in barrel until only enough gas is needed to achieve 100% desired functionality. Rest of gas is vented out the barrel behind bullet.

Option 2 - Bleed off adjustable gas block. "Superlative Arms". Has both restrictive and bleed off modes. The bleed off mode works great. The restrictive mode does not. Choose this gas block if running a suppressor. The gas block bleeds off the extra gas out the gas block. Unlike the restrictive style gas block that uses extra gas to propel the bullet. Bleed off gas block will lend to less muzzle velocity. This bleed off gas block is also a last ditch effort to save a barrel with too large a gas port diameter.

Under gassed situation:

You must drill the gas port. Harbor freight has a numbered drill bit set. Use the smooth ends of the bits as a pin gauges, and the cutting ends to drill. Measure the smooth ends with a caliper. Adjust by .002" increments larger in bit size until desired functionality achieved. A dowel rod inserted into the barrel will prevent over drilling.

Notes:

A rifle with a clean receiver, properly oiled BCG, within the first 20-30rnds, will eject brass slightly forward. About 15 minutes on the "clock illustration". 100% desired functionality is a clean rifle ejecting brass to 2:45 and settling in at 3:00 ejection.
Thank you for the detail and info. I really appreciate your time.
 
The grease I used was made by Ford for electric vent window motors about 40 years ago. It came in what looked like a huge tooth paste tube. The silicone grease was clear and very thick. More like a paste than a grease. It stuck to the spring coils very well.
 

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