Hi Butch,
I can't speak to reloading for a pistol, but the process for a rifle is normal and dirt-cheap!
I snagged a deal on a project-gone-south, and picked up a reamer, modified 700 bolt, dies, and a huge bag (1800+ pieces) of brass. I tumbled the brass (about 500 pcs at a time) in a rotary tumbler with stainless pin media for about 6 hours to clean it up. On 95% of the cases, that was enough to complete knock the polymer coatings off it and shine it up. After that, it was load development and reloading per my normal benchrest workflow. I bought a Wilson 22cal seater blank and and used the chamber reamer to make the seating die. A little post processing converted it to a micrometer top and it works fabulous.
I have to say that this has been one of the most fun and surprising rifles I've built in awhile. Granted, the 700 action is way too big, and feeding it really sucks (think singleshot, square face, down inside a pipe!_). I've been experimenting with a 3D printed, flexible feed ramp and that effort is showing some promise!
It shoots awesome. I'm running 10.6 grains of Lil'Gun behind a Sierra 40HP ($15/100!) and consistently getting 3000 +/- 20 fps with recoil and noise about equivalent to a 22Mag rimfire. I added a two-stage muzzle brake just for fun -- it really didn't change the performance at all. It is easily a 3/8-1/2" rifle (by BR standards, not the 3-shot, wallet group standard) -- reliable enough that I've shot several flies with it at 100 yards. (
http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/5-7x28-fun.3975363/).
The tiny case is sensitive to powder adjustments -- a 1/10 too much or too little will throw it out of tune. I just weigh all the charges on a little GemPro 250, tare the case, drop the powder then make small adjustments.
The barrel is a 24" Shilen and the rifle is currently sporting a new stock. It is my go-to prairie dog buster for anything out to about 200 yards. (The 20 VarTarg isn't even fair for the close ones!)
Rod