Anybody make 10 or 20 MOA 1" scope rings

[Ledd Slinger]

I'm looking for 1" scope rings that will give me 10 or 20 MOA extra adjustment. Can find rings for 30mm scopes, but not 1".

Can't use a base because the rifle is a custom rig based on the TC Venture action. Base selection for that action is very limited.

And I know about the Burris Zee rings with inserts, but being that it is a hunting rifle, I would like something tougher. Like a tactical type of ring like NF, Badger, or Mark4.

Any ideas or knowledge of something out there I could use? Thanks folks.

 

[Outrider27]

If you need something tougher than a Zee ring, you must be doing something really far out.

We've never broken or damaged a Zee ring, and we have them on everything from .22 RF to .338 Lapua Mag. The .22 and the model 600 Remington carbine in .308 Win get banged around most, as they're truck guns. I'd try the Z rings and not worry about it if you want 10-20 MOA to play with and don't want to use an MOA base in 10, 15 or 20 MOA.

Mike

 

[1066]

+1 for the Zee rings. I've never had them shift. You have a good selection of inserts for the 1" tube.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

I bed all my scopes with jb weld and all you have to do is add a shim in the rear to bed in what ever moa you need.

 

[JohnKielly]

I like the Zee rings too, but their lowest 30 mm mount might be a problem. The cut to facilitate clamping extends into the "cup" of the ring, resulting in mine cracking probably because they were carrying a NF BR 8-32 scope, which I concede is no lightweight.

 

[Ledd Slinger]

I bed all my scopes with jb weld and all you have to do is add a shim in the rear to bed in what ever moa you need.

Might try that. I've shimmed scopes in the rear with tin foil layers before, but didn't really like knowing that I was torquing on the scope body without making full contact on the rings. Bedding would solve that dilemma for sure. I have a lapping kit so I could just lap the rings until they are slightly oversized to make room for the JB weld bedding.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

Exactly. 20 moa is about .0055" per inch, so if you rings a 5" apart you want a .0275" shim in the rear under the tube while the jb cures.

 

[Ledd Slinger]

Thanks for those measurements. The size of the shim was going to be my next question. Your info on the actual MOA measurement per inch is exactly what I needed because I can use that to fine tune my scope. So here's my plan now that I have the measurement you provided....

My plan is to sight the rifle in dead on at 300 yards, then determine how much vertical adjustment was used from optical center and calculate roughly how much more adjustment is needed to reach 600 yards. I will then bed the scope rings according to the MOA required to be optically centered at 600 yards. That way 300 yards will still have premium sight picture and 1000 yards will as well. But where most of my shots are around 400-600 yards, the picture will be best.

Of course it won't come out "perfectly" but if I'm close I'll be happy

 

[johara1]

Exactly. 20 moa is about .0055" per inch, so if you rings a 5" apart you want a .0275" shim in the rear under the tube while the jb cures.

Alex, Do you have to bed under the front ring or do you lapp that front ring out? ………. jim

 

[Ledd Slinger]

Well I got my rings lapped and bedded both front and rear rings with a .015" shim under the rear. Being that the rings were roughly 4" apart that should give me about 15 MOA of extra adjustment.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

Jim, once the rings are mounted, I lap to make some room and put the shim on the rear ring, then put some jb on both rings and lay the scope in (use some tape to hold it in place), once it tacks up, I put the ring caps on finger tight with some jb making sure to have wax on the tube and the jb from the bottom ring and top ring don't contact each other. I try and pop it all apart once the jb is still leathery, that way you can use a razor blade to trim off the overflow. I mainly do this with the Talley lighweight rings than mount right to the action.

 

[Ledd Slinger]

I really like how the bedding job turned out. Guarantees 100% contact with the rings to the scope tube. I cut out a few layers of the embedded aluminum foil shim after I broke the rings free so that as the JB Weld dries completely and shrinks a little, the scope will be resting on the bedding and not the shim. This is definitely how I am going to mount up all of my scopes from now on. Thanks again for the tip zfastmalibu

 

[Ledd Slinger]

Well so far so good. Bedding cured enough to re-mount and level the scope. A quick bore sighting revealed that the 15 MOA shim is just about what it should be. By looking down the bore and centering it on a small object at 40 yards I had to adjust my scope down from "0" (0=18) to "3" plus 2 more clicks from optical center on the 18 MOA turret of my Zeiss HD5 5-25 scope. which comes out to 15 1/2 MOA. After dialing the scope up to sight in dead on at 300 yards, it should give me an optical zero at anywhere from 600-750 yards depending on how much the scope actually needs to be adjusted from bore sighting for a true 300 yard sight in.

So zfastmalibu's measurement info was pretty much dead on and my calculations came out almost exactly as planned. Thanks again for the great tip

 

[Alex Wheeler]

No problem, got it from Tony Boyer's (Larry Costa's) Book.