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Anschutz rifles made by Savage

...and not the other way around.
I handled one of those rifles, chambered in 7x64 Brenneke (the ancestor of the .280 Remington) and couldn't believe what I saw: an actual Savage 110 receiver with Anschutz markings and WITHOUT any Savage marking...
It comes with a beautiful wood stock, a set trigger and a proprietary magazine system.
I found no mention in Wikipedia about any joint venture between the 2 companies except about rimfire rifles.
The 110 actioned Anschutz was purchased second hand by the owner during the early eighties.
I managed to find a pdf of the owner's manual, still without any mention of Savage Arms.
I will post some pics later.

Anschutz 1562 Owners Manual.pdf https://share.google/rQpOi8zGdkb70W8Lj
 
Here they are:
 

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When Savage teamed up with Anschutz to import their guns, they had a reciprocal agreement to make barreled actions just for the European market. Anschutz stocked and finished them out with the set triggers. The magazine system wasn't proprietary but ,the boxes for some of the calibers were made by Anschutz. There were less than 1000 of these guns made.
 
So ... if a Savage jumps from $100 to $10,000 merely through rebadging ... does that transform it from trash into treasure? (Just askin for our resident Savage haters who protest that any rifle under $5k is garbage.)
 
Anybody who trashes a Savage rifle has never used one. Including an early (Chicopee Falls) 110 model, with the Rem style extractor, that was a tack driver, I've owned several 10, 12, 110 models of the Coburn era that were exceptionally accurate and reliable. I just wish there were a way to adjust the displacement of the rear baffle (may be with a set screw?) when you deal with high pressure cartridges. Otherwise, as a former military marksmanship instructor, I would have gone to... the real life, anytime with a Savage over any other brand, Sako and Accuracy Int. excepted.
 
Anybody who trashes a Savage rifle has never used one. Including an early (Chicopee Falls) 110 model, with the Rem style extractor, that was a tack driver, I've owned several 10, 12, 110 models of the Coburn era that were exceptionally accurate and reliable. I just wish there were a way to adjust the displacement of the rear baffle (may be with a set screw?) when you deal with high pressure cartridges. Otherwise, as a former military marksmanship instructor, I would have gone to... the real life, anytime with a Savage over any other brand, Sako and Accuracy Int. excepted.
I’ve read that they’re ( 110 ) still in use in Ukraine in sniper units.
 
Anybody who trashes a Savage rifle has never used one. Including an early (Chicopee Falls) 110 model, with the Rem style extractor, that was a tack driver, I've owned several 10, 12, 110 models of the Coburn era that were exceptionally accurate and reliable. I just wish there were a way to adjust the displacement of the rear baffle (may be with a set screw?) when you deal with high pressure cartridges. Otherwise, as a former military marksmanship instructor, I would have gone to... the real life, anytime with a Savage over any other brand, Sako and Accuracy Int. excepted.
Funny you mentioned that rear baffle. I had a couple obviously over pressure 308 rounds in my 110 this spring that blew the primers and had to beat the bolt handle open with a mallet. Afterwards, the baffle was loose as a goose and the little detent ball wouldn't hold in the groove. I wrapped it in a rag and gingerly squeezed it in the vice and brought it back to spec. Taught me a lesson.
 
Funny you mentioned that rear baffle. I had a couple obviously over pressure 308 rounds in my 110 this spring that blew the primers and had to beat the bolt handle open with a mallet. Afterwards, the baffle was loose as a goose and the little detent ball wouldn't hold in the groove. I wrapped it in a rag and gingerly squeezed it in the vice and brought it back to spec. Taught me a lesson.
My advice in such a situation is to NEVER beat the bolt handle. You're going to break the small link between bolt and bolt head. It costs about 5 bucks but it will definitely leave the bolt head inside the action recess, leading you to unscrew the barrel !!! Better lift the bolt handle then use a screwdriver inserted between the baffle and the rear bridge.
 

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