6.5 forever
Silver $$ Contributor
Do you clean the inside the case neck after you anneal?
Annealing procedure
- Thread starter 6.5 forever
- Start date
I anneal "after" cleaning and before sizing. I know a lot of people anneal dirty brass, but I don't want any gunk dropping into my AMP. After sizing, I (1) chamfer, (2) de-burr, (3) brush the inside of the neck ... all three with the right tool and a hand-drill ..., and then (4) coat the inside of the neck with Neolube #2 (and let dry) before primer-charge-seating.
Probably sounds OCD, but it works for me.
(Hey, that rhymes.)
Probably sounds OCD, but it works for me.
(Hey, that rhymes.)
Ranger188
Silver $$ Contributor
After I anneal, I size the case, then put back into the corn cob media
to get the sizing lube off and the residue from annealing. (so, no I don't just clean the inside of the necks)
What ever you do, do it the same way every time...
If I don't put the cases back into the corn cob media after annealing, the pressure required
to seat a bullet goes way up and seems to be a little wider range.
to get the sizing lube off and the residue from annealing. (so, no I don't just clean the inside of the necks)
What ever you do, do it the same way every time...
If I don't put the cases back into the corn cob media after annealing, the pressure required
to seat a bullet goes way up and seems to be a little wider range.
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RegionRat
Gold $$ Contributor
Because "cleaning the neck" doesn't mean the same thing to different folks, it requires an explanation to keep the answer standardized.
To be more specific, a dry tumble is one thing and wet tumble is another, both require a different view. One can be very gentle and some folks don't consider that neck cleaning, and one can scrub the neck to nascent metal. The friction coefficients can be vastly different.
Some folks anneal straight from the range, and others clean first or maybe multiple times.
A pass with a brush may or may not have graphite (or moly, etc.) added, so sometimes we would consider that both a cleaning and a lubrication, but some folks would not call that cleaning.
To leave you with an important concept, there is a potentially big difference in the coefficient of friction between just a pass with a brush versus leaving them alone.
When you have a chance, it is good to determine two things, one is to learn how big of an issue brushing or cleaning the neck makes in seating force, and the other is to determine if that difference is important at the target for your process.
You may take an answer from the internet/forum with respect to what one person calls "neck cleaning" and end up with a completely different effect in your own process when you take it out of their context and drop it into yours.
I find almost everything I do to that brass starting with how I eject it and get it home, to how I process it, store it and load it... makes a difference I can see with the speed stats, or target, or both.
But like many folks on here, I have some loads for shooting that it doesn't matter, and some where it does.
I can't possibly do the same things to necks for a batch of 3000 prairie dog loads that I do for match ammo or big game ammo, but I try to make sure what I do to those necks is intentional and understood in terms of seating and storage issues.
In general, my answer is that I clean the necks before and after annealing, but now you might have an idea that we may not all mean the same thing when we say "clean". YMMV
To be more specific, a dry tumble is one thing and wet tumble is another, both require a different view. One can be very gentle and some folks don't consider that neck cleaning, and one can scrub the neck to nascent metal. The friction coefficients can be vastly different.
Some folks anneal straight from the range, and others clean first or maybe multiple times.
A pass with a brush may or may not have graphite (or moly, etc.) added, so sometimes we would consider that both a cleaning and a lubrication, but some folks would not call that cleaning.
To leave you with an important concept, there is a potentially big difference in the coefficient of friction between just a pass with a brush versus leaving them alone.
When you have a chance, it is good to determine two things, one is to learn how big of an issue brushing or cleaning the neck makes in seating force, and the other is to determine if that difference is important at the target for your process.
You may take an answer from the internet/forum with respect to what one person calls "neck cleaning" and end up with a completely different effect in your own process when you take it out of their context and drop it into yours.
I find almost everything I do to that brass starting with how I eject it and get it home, to how I process it, store it and load it... makes a difference I can see with the speed stats, or target, or both.
But like many folks on here, I have some loads for shooting that it doesn't matter, and some where it does.
I can't possibly do the same things to necks for a batch of 3000 prairie dog loads that I do for match ammo or big game ammo, but I try to make sure what I do to those necks is intentional and understood in terms of seating and storage issues.
In general, my answer is that I clean the necks before and after annealing, but now you might have an idea that we may not all mean the same thing when we say "clean". YMMV
Ranger188
Silver $$ Contributor
I've never liked using a brush afterwards.
I get too much of an inconstant seating force, and it really reduces it.
So I just adjust my bushing to what I need.
Find what works for your application and stick with it.
Everyone has a slightly different method.
Trial and error.
I get too much of an inconstant seating force, and it really reduces it.
So I just adjust my bushing to what I need.
Find what works for your application and stick with it.
Everyone has a slightly different method.
Trial and error.
Yes, but there some steps I do after annealing before I touch the inside of the neck: I anneal after depriming, then clean the outside of the case neck with steel wool before lube and sizing. Next, before expanding the neck with mandrel, it's into the vibrator tumbler using rice to remove Imperial Sizing Die Wax lube and the rice takes care of the inside of the neck for smooth neck expansion and smooth consistent bullet seating.
stavey
Silver $$ Contributor
I think I’m going to have to try tumbling in rice. Is it just plain white rice ?
It's medium grain white rice you'll want to use. You don't want to use long grain white rice as they'll stick into the flash holes and is a hassle to remove. But be aware that the medium grain rice will have a few small rice chips that will stick in a few primer pockets, but typically only be a hand full of cases in a batch and they're easy enough to pluck out (I use a tiny screwdriver for that).
PS: For cases necks smaller than 6.5's, it may be too much work getting the rice out from the inside of the cases due to small diameter necks???
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Been using dry tumbling media for years, just tried rice 2x on 200 cases. Turned out great. I do dry brush the inside of the necks after tumbling clean. This is what I used:
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