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Anneal or tumble first

I don't think it makes any difference really , that said I would clean first so the tumbling doesn't remove the annealing marks and shine them up... Just so I would know which ones were done by looking....
 
I'd clean em, then anneal, then size. Works for me. Annealing will bake the carbon in / outside of necks. Not an expert.
I like seeing where the annealing temp change "ends" on the case wall as well.
 
I recommend anneal, clean, apply outside case lube, FL resize, tumble polish or apply dry lube to inside neck and load.

DJ
DJ's Brass Service
205-461-4680
 
My input: -

Annealing is the removal of work hardening, yes? Then, IMO, annealing should be done at the end of case preparation (excluding priming, etc. of course:eek:)
 
I clean first, then anneal. Ya never know what may have found its way into a case. Yes, annealing does relieve work hardening, so I want to do it before I re-size so all the brass is the same. If trimming is required I do it next.
I hope this helps,

Lloyd
 
I clean first, then anneal. Ya never know what may have found its way into a case. Yes, annealing does relieve work hardening, so I want to do it before I re-size so all the brass is the same. If trimming is required I do it next.
I hope this helps,

Lloyd

Logical.....
 
You need to get the carbon off the OUTSIDE of the neck. Here is what I do: 1.) After EVERY shot, during competition or not, I use Krazy Kloth to wipe that carbon off; 2.) I anneal; 3.) clean the cases. IF you use a media tumbler / vibrator and do so with the primers REMOVED from sizing / depriming, you will have the primer pockets all stuck with media. P.I.T.A. to get out!
 
I'd clean em, then anneal, then size. Works for me. Annealing will bake the carbon in / outside of necks. Not an expert.
I like seeing where the annealing temp change "ends" on the case wall as well.

I don’t think carbon dissolves in copper alloys. So I don’t quite follow how it could “bake” in. Carbon in a flame turns to ash.
 

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