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AMP Annealer Settings for Lapua 6PPC brass

Kyle Schultz

Gold $$ Contributor
I'm preparing to start shooting 6PPC. As I have an AMP annealer, I went to their settings page to determine the correct pilot to order. In looking over the program settings, however, I was quite surprised to see the large range of recommended program settings for the 2 different lots of Lapua brass. Table reproduced below.

upload_2018-6-15_17-50-54.png

In the past, with other cartridges I shot, I've been content to utilize the settings already determined for similar brass; adjusting of course for neck thickness. But the spread shown above concerns me. I know I can send my specific lot of brass to NZ for testing but I really don't want to do that every time I pick up a different lot of Lapua 220 Russian brass.

Up until now, I've viewed the Aztec option as certainly interesting and even potentially revolutionary. But now I'm wondering, since I've already invested in the machine and am VERY satisfied with how it performs, if I'm missing the boat but not installing the Aztec mode.

I would love to hear the thoughts of other AMP annealer users. TIA.
 
I am in the process of obtaining the Aztec function. It is already loaded, just waiting for the unlock code from AMP.

For an initial program (assuming you are using Lapua) I would pick the one that best matches your neck thickness. It will be close.
 
I agree with both Dusty and Macrpod, not many people anneal 6PPC and if you do want to do it, pick the program that closest matches your brass.
My PPC brass is in the .008" range, i did a small comparison the other day, using non annealed and annealed using the #42 programme and found no difference in seating force or grouping size.
 
I appreciate your comments fellows. But even for the same neck thickness, the program settings differ between the 2 lots of Lapua brass. That was the genesis of my of my question.
 
Looks like not many folks are annealing their ppc brass- which is correct.

Question. Are "benchrest" habits such as loading at the range and not cleaning or annealing brass considered "best practice" because they are in fact "best" or are they simply the consequence of loading and reloading the same 10 pieces of brass during the match? Thanks!
 
Maybe I am wrong. But the way I see it is. One lot of Lapua is made from 220 Russian brass. The next is turned brass some sent and the third is straight 6mm brass. I do not know much about the case maybe it and 220 Russian are the same. Normally they marke if some sent in cases and what the parent case was that way.
 
Question. Are "benchrest" habits such as loading at the range and not cleaning or annealing brass considered "best practice" because they are in fact "best" or are they simply the consequence of loading and reloading the same 10 pieces of brass during the match? Thanks!


Just a guess on my part regarding the BR shooters not annealing. Before AMP, annealing with gas was a PIA, even at home so doing so at the range, and even during a match, was unheard of. At home with an .008" neck it didn't take much to ruin expensive brass with a flame annealer if the dwell time or heat wasn't perfect from the get go every time. Doing so in the field was probably next to impossible.
With the advent of the AMP and the consistency it brings to annealing, the idea of annealing at a match just came one huge step closer to reality. The only stumbling block is the availability of AC. I would venture a guess that the BR shooters who travel to matches in RV's have probably looked hard at taking an AMP with them.
I anneal my 6PPC brass before every loading session. No, I do not shoot competitively.
The above is just a wild ass guess on my part.
 
I attended a local short range BR shoot several weeks ago, there were two folks for sure using annealed brass, both well known shooters. One annealed at home and brought a bunch of brass to the match, the other had his AMP in the loading shed. Could have been more, it was my first shoot and my head was spinning like the first trip to Cabelas.:rolleyes:
CW
 
Ppc brass really only lasts about a match anyway so if youre a weight or volume sorter you use those 15-20pcs of brass them toss em after the match. Mine never really get to the point of needing annealed. I hydroform, anneal, then fireform while finding my load then im off to the races. Most matches except the very big ones you dont have time to anneal even with an amp and without the aztec by the time you sent your brass in and got it back that box is gone. I wouldnt think of starting a match with used brass on top of all that so annealing just doesnt fit in my plans even loading in the rv with all the space i need
 
Ppc brass really only lasts about a match anyway so if youre a weight or volume sorter you use those 15-20pcs of brass them toss em after the match. Mine never really get to the point of needing annealed. I hydroform, anneal, then fireform while finding my load then im off to the races. Most matches except the very big ones you dont have time to anneal even with an amp and without the aztec by the time you sent your brass in and got it back that box is gone. I wouldnt think of starting a match with used brass on top of all that so annealing just doesnt fit in my plans even loading in the rv with all the space i need

Tight enough chamber will fix that. PPC guns that sinclair built can run the same brass for nearly a lifetime.
 
I appreciate your comments fellows. But even for the same neck thickness, the program settings differ between the 2 lots of Lapua brass. That was the genesis of my of my question.


I dont follow. I see different settings for each type of lapua brass.

Line 2: Fire formed from 200 russian
Line 3: Lapua "extended neck turned settings" whatever that means
Line 4: two lots of Lapua 6PPC
 
I dont follow. I see different settings for each type of lapua brass.

Line 2: Fire formed from 200 russian
Line 3: Lapua "extended neck turned settings" whatever that means
Line 4: two lots of Lapua 6PPC

I am taking it as line 3 is a continuation of line 2. 2 starts out with .012" and then has the -.001" to -.003". Line 3 should be -.004" in my book.

OP, if you are using Lapua brass, go by the neck thickness on line 4 for your setting. If using 220 brass, pick your flavor from 2 or 3.
 
I am taking it as line 3 is a continuation of line 2. 2 starts out with .012" and then has the -.001" to -.003". Line 3 should be -.004" in my book.

OP, if you are using Lapua brass, go by the neck thickness on line 4 for your setting. If using 220 brass, pick your flavor from 2 or 3.

Ah, good point.

Regardless, OP, Spend the 150 bucks or whatever it is and get the Aztec mode update. Or send them your brass.
 

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