I just was able to purchase a amp after saving up and had a few questions for you guys that have a amp or anneal at all. This is first I have attempted annealing. I have read allot of old threads and tried to study up but as far as getting them clean to put in amp I’m not sure. Is it best to clean inside and outside of necks before they go in to not get gunk in machine, or clean inside and out after to get baked on stuff off from the annealing or do guys not clean at all. I have some old 30-06 hunting brass me and dad are gonna play with to get the hang of it and see if we start seeing any difference.
Amp advice
- Thread starter Toptom
- Start date
I clean the outside of my brass and run a nylon brush in and out of the necks. Doing this stops the dirt, burned powder and other crap from getting baked on the cartridge and keeps my dies from being scratched up. Some muck muck does fall into the annealing well, I swab the well out once in a while with a wet Q-tip.
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I dry tumble in corncob media, then decap, then anneal. I also swab out the annealing well with alcohol occasionally.
PopCharlie
PopCharlie
There's no need to clean before annealing. Trim lengths don't make much, if any difference. Deposits inside the necks are turned into ash.
When I had the Mark-I AMP, I didn’t pay much attention to how clean my brass was. When I sold it to upgrade to the Mark-II, I noticed a lot of “gunk” in the pan below the induction coil on the Mark-I.
I decided that nothing would be annealed in the Mark-II unit without being wet tumbled first (read: virgin clean). I also notice now that when I anneal a case, it doesn’t create a burnt hair smell (now that they’re clean pieces of brass going in).
Your mileage may vary. It’s just what I do.
I decided that nothing would be annealed in the Mark-II unit without being wet tumbled first (read: virgin clean). I also notice now that when I anneal a case, it doesn’t create a burnt hair smell (now that they’re clean pieces of brass going in).
Your mileage may vary. It’s just what I do.
10XSHOOTER
Gold $$ Contributor
I deprime with universal depriming die. Tumble in walnut shell to clean brass. Anneal. Then size, trim if needed. I used water soluble lube to size. put on pegs in dishwasher. Run cycle NO SOAP. dry overnight. put in corn cob to polish. Very clean and annealed brass!
jepp2
Gold $$ Contributor
I don't clean the outside of the case necks before I AMP anneal them. I tumble in treated corncob media after so they are clean for sizing.
I bought some brass from someone (will not say who) who flame annealed the brass after sizing with case lube still on the case. In the high heat zone it is there forever. So definitely do not do that.
RegionRat
Gold $$ Contributor
If you search the webz, you will hear many versions of cleaning/no-cleaning from some very accomplished shooters. Many of the top shooters in LR BR and Highpower skip the cleaning steps. They have run their homework and their accomplishments speak for themselves. So let's assume that discussion is limited to their own brass that they know well, not range pick-ups.
With the AMP, I started out with wet tumbled brass to eliminate the issue of cooking contamination onto the necks, but with time I experimented and found that as long as the brass wasn't so filthy that dirt would fall into the machine, I no longer worry.
This includes strange-to-me range pick-ups that might be filthy with dirt. I only clean it in advance of annealing in the AMP if it is dirty from being on the ground. I just don't want it so dirty that it literally dumps junk into the machine. If it hasn't been laying around, I don't bother.
In a way, this takes care of itself if you decap and don't want your brass so dirty that it makes a mess of your machines and tools. If it was my own brass, or if it hasn't been laying around, I don't bother cleaning up front.
With my own match brass, I don't worry at all with clean or no-clean. With my PD rounds, they rarely hit the dirt. In a bolt gun they go back into the box, and I use a catcher for the AR platforms. So, those can be annealed without worry of dropping spiders and rocks into the AMP.
Learning how to prep brass includes managing the tribology of the inside of the neck. Cleaning and when you do it affects that equation. YMMV
With the AMP, I started out with wet tumbled brass to eliminate the issue of cooking contamination onto the necks, but with time I experimented and found that as long as the brass wasn't so filthy that dirt would fall into the machine, I no longer worry.
This includes strange-to-me range pick-ups that might be filthy with dirt. I only clean it in advance of annealing in the AMP if it is dirty from being on the ground. I just don't want it so dirty that it literally dumps junk into the machine. If it hasn't been laying around, I don't bother.
In a way, this takes care of itself if you decap and don't want your brass so dirty that it makes a mess of your machines and tools. If it was my own brass, or if it hasn't been laying around, I don't bother cleaning up front.
With my own match brass, I don't worry at all with clean or no-clean. With my PD rounds, they rarely hit the dirt. In a bolt gun they go back into the box, and I use a catcher for the AR platforms. So, those can be annealed without worry of dropping spiders and rocks into the AMP.
Learning how to prep brass includes managing the tribology of the inside of the neck. Cleaning and when you do it affects that equation. YMMV
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