You may have a bit too much jump. Have you tried coming in from the .43" jump in 10 thousands increments with the fireformed brass? Use only fireformed brass for your load work. While a fireform load in new brass may print a better group, it will not be consistent. Work on a node that will work with your fireformed brass and bump one or two thousands when sizing. If you're not neck turning, I'd suggest you do. Some recent Lapua brass I bought showed a difference of almost two thousands in neck thickness. This will play a big role in consistent neck tension.Any and all opinions welcome, 6.5-47L , h4350 , 140 hybrids, br4. All shot at 300 yards. 29" 1.250 straight. It has been cold out with light to no mirage. Note: 2.130 is .43 jump, and the group with an SD of 36 was new brass and the rest is with 1X.
Surely he meant .043 and not .430.
I just started working with RL16, it's pretty much the same as RL-17 so far. The only difference is the powder coating for temp sensitivity and the decoppering additive, from what I understand. Of course you would have to tune for that specific lot, like any other powder change of lot. I hope that it will shoot "way better" like you say but I think that's "pie in the sky". I bought it to see if it's really better in our 70-110 degree climate here in Arizona and I sure wouldn't mind if my barrel cleans up better. I have a bore scope so I'll be monitoring that with big eyesI have been working on characterizing RL-16 to replace RL-17 in my 284 WIN BR gun as well as my 7X57 hunting rifle. That is, when it stops raining!
I have found RL-16 shoots way better in my 284WIN than H4831sc as well as RL-17.
I have just read a couple threads where folks are using RL-16 for their 6BRX loads so I will try that in my BR light gun! It would be nice to use only one powder for all my guns!