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After Chambering, how would you polish the leade angle

The leade angle is left as cut. If the reamer is a bit dull, there may be a feather edge on the back side of the lands. If a person is concerned about this, it can usually be cleaned off with steel wool on a jag. Any feather should be so minor as to not be an issue. In fact, before we started looking at everything with a damn borescope, it wasn't an issue!
The Lothar Walther people recommended polishing the throat in their barrels but that was because their stainless doesn't cut worth a damn. WH
 
Never felt a need to polish the throat or leade angle of a newly cut chamber. But like Ackleyman said in his post. (Always wanted to know how to polish the leade angle in a freshly cut chamber.)

Chet
 
Dave, what technique do you use to polish the throat or would you rather not say? Like I said, I have used fine steel wool, back and forth, to remove burrs and have added JB to the mix on occasion. I have always thought a Cratex cylinder, of appropriate size,on a rod, would be perfect if serious polishing was required. WH
 
I have experimented with this, steel wool, iosso/jb, scotch brite, ext. I found the break in time and amount of coppering early on was no different than ones I did nothing to. Some copper a little for the first few shots, others will never copper from the first shot on. I couldnt control that with throat prep. But I do keep very sharp reamers and if I see any degradation in the cut, they are retired. One thing I do know is that the shape of the throat is critical to accuracy. A good way to take a great barrel and make it a good barrel is to get after it with some iosso and round the edges of the lands on the lead. This is why setting back a barrel a couple turns can bring back that top accuracy, its the sharpening of the lead. A few strokes with with steel wool or iosso is not going to hurt, but you do not want to get carried away.
 
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