Advices for neck turning(case forming) for a newbie.

[Bora72]

Isn't there a risk of limiting the life of the case/neck?

Thanks

 

[Webster]

I'm new to neck turning too. Am I going too far into the shoulder?

View attachment 1643176

It's a little farther than most recommend. Some guys say turning a little into the shoulder removes the donut, but you should not have a donut on new brass or brass fired a couple times. I just touch the shoulder maybe 5 thou. I have over 20 reloads on my 6BR Lapua brass. No reason to attempt to remove a donut since I am shooting 58-68 gr bullets and they are only seated half way down the neck. Both my rifles are for GH hunting and they shoot under 400" groups. I don't need to improve anything. I just need to get a GH in my cross hairs. I never believed that a mandrel pushes donuts completely to the outside of the neck so they can be removed. Been reloading since 1970.

 

[Oklahoma Jim]

Maybe the max. As long as you are not cutting into the shoulder so much as to leave a big step in the shoulder. You only want a little ridge that 000 steel wool will remove. You should back down a little if you are. You could back down half that much and still be effective. When I first started turning necks some were like yours with no ill effects.

Thanks Steve and Webster!

 

[jepp2]

Am I going too far into the shoulder?

My response is blunt, sorry. Way too much into the shoulder. Look at the ridge the tool left. If you can feel the end of the cut with your finger nail, you went too far.

 

[Oklahoma Jim]

Thanks for the reply. That's what I was wondering.

 

[searcher]

I cut mine to where they come all the way down to the shoulder junction and just ever so slightly into the shoulder - about in between your second and third picture. Just a tad lower than your first two pics - but shy of the third.

 

[Bill Norris]

I cut mine to where they come all the way down to the shoulder junction and just ever so slightly into the shoulder - about in between your second and third picture. Just a tad lower than your first two pics - but shy of the third.

That's where I stop too. When I first got my 30BR I saw a post saying turn it into the shoulder to show cutter track to about half of the shoulder and I did 10 pcs. but decided I needed to back off a bit. Glad I did because those 10 pcs. have now shown signs of possible cracking at that area where the cutter stopped.

 

[Bora72]

Which lubricant is recommended?
I use Redding's Imperial Dry.
Others shooters Imperial Wax also from Redding.
Some others Shooters Choice FP-10.

 

[ricco1949]

Which lubricant is recommended?
I use Redding's Imperial Dry.
Others shooters Imperial Wax also from Redding.
Some others Shooters Choice FP-10.

99% alcohol/lanolin @ 12/1 ratio. I've tried many but none that work as well as this.

Can of Heet from your auto store, pure lanolin from the Innertube, a discarded spray bottle and you're set for 1000's of brass.

 

[Bora72]

99% alcohol/lanolin @ 12/1 ratio. I've tried many but none that work as well as this.

Can of Heet from your auto store, pure lanolin from the Innertube, a discarded spray bottle and you're set for 1000's of brass.

Ok, you spray in the inner of the neck or in the turning mandrel?

How you clean the neck from the lanolin?

Thanks

 

[ricco1949]

Ok, you spray in the inner of the neck or in the turning mandrel?

How you clean the neck from the lanolin?

Thanks

Sorry I was thinking sizing lube.

I dip the tip of the neck in Machinist lube in a shallow tin...lubes OD and ID.

I turn using K&M tooling on a Bridgeport Mill so my setup is somewhat unique to others.

I remove lube in 10 minute hot water, Lemishine, detergent sonic bath. They come out squeaky clean.

 

[Steve Donlon]

My response is blunt, sorry. Way too much into the shoulder. Look at the ridge the tool left. If you can feel the end of the cut with your finger nail, you went too far.

View attachment 1643330

That's a lot better view than what I saw. That is a lot of ridge. My cutter goes that far with very little ridge but it's a 30-06 with less angle. You are right for sure.

 

[Bora72]

Sorry I was thinking sizing lube.

I dip the tip of the neck in Machinist lube in a shallow tin...lubes OD and ID.

I turn using K&M tooling on a Bridgeport Mill so my setup isView attachment 1643660 somewhat unique to others.

I remove lube in 10 minute hot water, Lemishine, detergent sonic bath. They come out squeaky clean.

No problem @ricco1949 ,
the Lube are the same used on the lathe or the milling machine?

I've only some dubt for removing from my side, because I don't have anymore ultrasonic washing machine...

 

[muleystalker]

Ok, you spray in the inner of the neck or in the turning mandrel?

How you clean the neck from the lanolin?

Thanks

Your Imperal Wax will work fine, you already have it. You need to get a case trimmer so you can make sure all your cases are trimmed to the same length. This will help in the consistency of the neck turning results.

 

[Bora72]

Your Imperal Wax will work fine, you already have it. You need to get a case trimmer so you can make sure all your cases are trimmed to the same length. This will help in the consistency of the neck turning results.

Ok for Imperial Wax, I test It.

For the case trimmer I don't like to spend much like Giraud or the new Hornady 3 in 1.

Wath type of trimmer I can choice?

Is the best traditional bench trimmer or WFT2 type?

For cases formed on FL die, are best one trimmer that indicize on the neck/shouder portion of the brass instead on the full length of the same?

 

[Bora72]

First issue....

I prepared some cases for the first test.
Annealing, full length, turning expander, turning, test on the chamber ok.
Next, when resizing and then expand for close the Bolt whe need some pressure plus than berore expanding with the finale expander.

Can someone explain me what appen?

Thanks