pertnear
Silver $$ Contributor
I’m the proud owner of a Martini Cadet chambered in .256 Win Mag. I plan to form 200 cases to stock pile for this rifle. I’ve already formed some cases using Winchester .357 brass with good forming results. I don't have any longevity results though. I anneal, lube & then size with standard RCBS dies using a .30 Mauser die as a starting step. Never lost a case. But I am worried about my annealing process. My google searches have turned up a number of processes. I found a Youtube where a fellow slipped the case into a 11mm socket spun on an electric drill while holding ½ of the case in a propane flame. I followed his instructions of using a 7 sec duration before dumping into water. I found another recommendation of just 3 to 4 seconds duration. Yet another says watch the color & dump just before turning red. The water pan technique looks very safe for heat control at the head but it would be uneven unless the flame or case was rotated around(?)
I just want to do this batch of cases & I don’t see annealing as worth an extensive equipment investment for me. I’m considering buying a bottle of Tempilaq ($25) but what temperature to buy & how do you use it? It seems like case head temperature is the most important thing to watch? Another wrench thrown in the works is how many times should you anneal? Some shooters say anneal before & then again after forming(?)
I’m beginning to feel like I’m taking something simple & making it into rocket-surgery! TIA for comments.
I just want to do this batch of cases & I don’t see annealing as worth an extensive equipment investment for me. I’m considering buying a bottle of Tempilaq ($25) but what temperature to buy & how do you use it? It seems like case head temperature is the most important thing to watch? Another wrench thrown in the works is how many times should you anneal? Some shooters say anneal before & then again after forming(?)
I’m beginning to feel like I’m taking something simple & making it into rocket-surgery! TIA for comments.