Advice on these groups

[Rem6br]

These were from my model seven predator in .243 with 22" barrel. Shot at 100 yards off bags
loads were imr 4350 and cci primer with 95 gr. Berger hunting VLD and new remington brass.
Which if any groups do you guys think I should use?

 

[jonbearman]

41,41.5 look pretty good. I would start playing with seating depth now.

 

[Rem6br]

That's what I was thinking I will load some 41 and 41.5 with varying seating depths and see if I can tighten them up

 

[dmoran]

Maybe its just the way I see the pictures, but the holes do not look symmetrical and large (stability) to me ?
What twist barrel ?

 

[Rem6br]

1:9.250 best I can measure with a tight patch could be the pics they look ok to me the target was a piece of printer paper here's a close up of a group

 

[Patch700]

If it were myself I would go back again starting at 39.5 due to the fact you say the 40 was pulled but yet not re-tested, I would also try using a brighter aim point that has definitive horizontal lines to determine if you're canting the rifle...

If the targets shown were the backer targets then the only question i would have is what would 40 have looked like had it not been "pulled".

Certainly some potential there though.

 

[dmoran]

Maybe I'm all wet here, but I see stability issue.....
I suggest to shoot a couple at both 25 and 50-yards to check for stability.
Be square and parallel to the target and use a card stock type paper.
You want the bullets to print total symmetrical cuts, under caliber in hole size (like say .200" holes with fractures to .243).
Donovan

 

[Steve Blair]

Donovan is likely right. That bullet is a little on the marginal stability side. Check the factor at Berger's site against your muzzle velocity and conditions. [br]
http://www.bergerbullets.com/twist-rate-calculator/

 

[Rem6br]

Donovan I will test at 25 and 50 square and parallel to the target and see what they look like
I will note that I was not square or parallel to the targets shown.

 

[jsthntn247]

The 95 vld has a very short bearing surface. I don't think you went high enough with your charge. Looked to me like it was just starting to tighten up. Try working up to 42.5 if you havnt seen pressure signs.

 

[artbosco]

40.0 looks the best. Watch the wind [use some flags] and they'll start piling up on top of each other. Some were shot in a push, others in a letup.

 

[Rem6br]

The first 5 groups I shot were 43,43.5,44,44.5 with no pressure signs but the groups were around
2" to 2.5" with the exception of 43.5 it was around an inch. So as already stated 42-42.5 may be
worth a try. I really appreciate all your guy good advice

 

[fdshuster]

My advice on the groups is to lose the black targets. Great for ironsite bullseye match's, and match's where spotters are working the pits, pulling and scoring targets. Not so great for precision shooting with scopes. Even the IBS 1000 yard targets are not black.

All you need is white or buff colored target paper with a day-glo orange aiming dot to get the job done.

You also did not say how many shots were fired in each group. Was it 3, 4 or 5 ? Difficult to tell in the black background.

 

[Rem6br]

Thanks I will use some of the white poster board and day glow stickers for the next go round.
They are 3 shot groups didn't have wind flags I'm thinking of maybe getting some stakes and tying some ribbon tape to the top. Any other ideas on wind flags? although I'm not to good at reading them but I guess enough practice I'll figure it out. And what size bull do you guys use for 300 yards
Thanks big time for all the advice

 

[Lapua40X]

Some good advice here. All I might add is to work with five shot groups. IMO, three holes don't tell you enough about what's happening.

 

[Rem6br]

Thanks lapua I will do 5 rounds next go round

 

[fdshuster]

Rem6BR; You are getting good advice here from all contributors. For 300 meters/yards, I prefer the 1 1/2" Target spots from Birchwood Casey. For 1 & 200 meters/yards the 1" are fine, and for 400 mtrs/yds. use both the 1 1/2" and the 3". 500 mtrs/yds. is the 3". Naturally the size depends on the scope magnifications available at the time and the lighting conditions. All these sizes work great with my NF BR 12-42x's and the 15-55x Comp. For 500 & 600 I sometimes use the "splatter" targets, especially in times of mirage, but even then the "splatter" hit does not always show up clearly, depending on the severity of the mirage, and if the hit is on one of the scoring ring lines you will not find the shot hole. That plain flat white (no glare) or tan target paper still remains the best first choice.

The small black diamond in the center of the day-glo orange "circles" come in very handy when forcusing your scope. When you can see the black diamond, your parralax focus adjustment is as good as it can be. Another reason I like the Target Spots for non match shooting.

Our club ranges have a good amount of the day-glo streamers mounted on posts at all the distances, and while not the best, better than nothing at all. Also handier at the longer distances when putting up your own flags would be a lot more time consuming when positioning them.

I will start with a 3 shot group, and if it looks promising will then take it to 5. If the group is unacceptable after 3 shots, it will not get any better by adding 2 more. To me, a waste of ammo and more importantly, barrel life.

 

[L.Sherm]

If stability is not the issue and your not getting any stringing with your groups. In the 43. 44.5 range try a primer change sometimes that will tighten your groups right up.

 

[Rem6br]

Thanks for the tip on the primers I may give the cci br primers a go round soon

 

[Shotgunmatt79]

Try using these targets and maybe add on a 3/4" orange stick on bullseye. The eye naturally aligns a scope to a diamond shaped target. I would also try getting my seating depth say 10 thousandths, 15 thousandths, and 20 thousandths off of the Lans. Make up 9 of each... 3 shots of 3 for each length. Shoot 3 shots back to back, then wait5-10 mins to shoot the other group and so on. Good luck