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adjustable trigger hanger for Farley action

anybody know if any of the offset or adjustable hangers will work on the older Farley actions,,my trigger needs backed up some,,do I need to measure exactly how much and have one made or can I use one of the adjustables made for a BAT or Kelby??
 
after measuring and studying a little,,I think the trigger needs moved back about .040,,the holes on this hanger are same distance from each end so flipping it wont do anything,,,
 
The farley wasnt designed to have an adjustable trigger hanger or timing. You need to call jim and get a new cocking piece and fit it
 
That was what I was going to ask. I seem to remember reading that some actions have the holes offset a little bit.
 
the cocking piece on the rear of firing pin that has the sear that contacts the sear on the trigger???

does he make them in different offsets to control when it hands off to the trigger or are they all the same and you have to machine fit it to the desired timing,,

but still from the looks of the hanger I think I could have my machinst in tool and die at work mod the hanger to move the trigger back the .040 I need,,

with the bolt closed and pin down I can raise the bolt about 1/3 to 1/2 way and the pin will cock and I can lower the bolt and the pin will stay back,,but when I fully cock the rifle the pin keeps coming back almost .050 after the trigger catches before the extraction starts,,then when I go to close the bolt the pin falls about .045 before catching the trigger,, and I only have about .180 of pin fall,,

from all that it seems to me I need to have the action worked to where the pin is cocked about .040-.045 farther back,,

I will call Farley for their thoughts but I think I can get the results by moving the trigger back about .040,,unless they say there is an easier way,,

thanx eric
 
You can always mod the trigger hanger- mill the back and slot it but everytime you remove your trigger to clean it like after each match youll have to retime it. You can always try a new trigger or top sear- if its a jewell there all so different youll find one that works. Or you can get a bix'n andy and get an adjustable sear on it. About 10 ways to skin that cat. Main thing you gotta ask- is something actually wrong with it- i.e how does it shoot?
 
when shooting the 6BR bbl with CCI450s ever now and then one wont go off,,I was advized that the short pin fall was to blame,,Kelby and Bat seem to recommend .240 which is about .060 more than I have,,
 
Kiff does sell a 700 cocking piece he calls a +.030, witch would gain you .030".

That cocking piece actually reduces pin fall .030" so it would be -.030". It was made to eliminate or reduce cock on close.

image.jpeg
 
They sell that reduced one to keep fast runners from tearing up their triggers. If you slam the bolt on one that engages as you run it forward your finely tuned sears wont like it. You never hear anybody talk about that one tho
 
.180" is way short. I have not worked with a Farley action. Farley time would cause me to NOT contact Farley for a fix. Are you sure no one was ground the top lever in the trigger or the cocking piece? You will only be able to back the trigger up so far before you'll start getting cock on close. It can all be fixed. You can give me a call if you'd like, but I would need it in my hands to see exactly the best way to set it up.
 
took it to work today and have some pretty dang good tool and die makers in the shop,,we took .050 off the rear of hanger and elongated the mounting holes .050 forward,,we worked back with .010 shims at a time until the pin cocked about .010 before the bolt handle hit the extraction ramp,,,I can raise the handle and cock the rifle without getting on the extraction ramp and lower the bolt with the pin cocked,,
this was at .030 back giving me .210 pin fall,,but with the bolt open and closing it compresses the spring .003 which isnt a big deal to me,,I think I will shoot it like this and see how it goes and if it bothers me I will go to a .027 shim and should be timed just about perfect and have .207 pin fall,,

if I am not happy with it like this I wouldnt care to send it and let you look it over,,but if the .210 fall isnt enough couldnt I get a little heavier spring to make the difference,,and actually the pin in the bolt looks like it is threaded and would be able to adjust the spring pressure but I may be wrong again,,

thanx eric
 
Eric, if your shooting short range you may be fine with that. Spring does not make up for fall and pin mass. Of course you want enough spring. If you were having ignition problems with .180" and you gained .030" I'd say you are still not going to have enough for best accuracy. I'd at least move the hanger the whole .050" and deal with the cock on close before I'd leave it at .210" If it will take a standard 700 spring call Kelbly's and get a spring for it too.
 
I think I will shoot it at .210 first,,it was shooting pretty dang good ..if I see improvements going from .180 to .210 I will go to .230 and see how it goes,,,,it wouldnt be impossible to move it back another .010-.015 from there if needed but would probably want it all done right if I had to go any farther than .230

and it may or may not have been worked on before to make it that short it was a PPC originally,,some marks on bolt cam surface dont look original,,
 
didnt shoot for group just to see how it felt with live rounds,,,and man I think I got the timing perfect but the pin fall is .208

got it to cock the pin just before it hits the extraction ramp,,I can raise the bolt up and it will cock just before it hits the ramp and can lower the bolt with it cocked,,

when running bolt after a fired round the bolt comes up really smooth and extraction is almost effortless,,eject empty and load a new round I guess the round holds the bolt back a little and I can not detect and firing pin movement at all when lowering the bolt,,

now if I gained any accuracy with the extra .028 pin fall I will be in high cotton,,if it just goes bang 100% I will be happy as it was shooting less than 1/2 inch at 300 ,
 

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