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Action Screw Torque

mrbill2

Silver $$ Contributor
I have a Savage Model 12FLV in 204 Ruger. I'd like to know how many inch pounds of torque should I tighten the action screws?
Which one gets torqued first, front or back?
Thanks
Mr. Bill
 
Normally, the,2) screw actions require 65 in. lbs. and the,3) screw actions require 25 in. lbs. I always snug both and torque the front,forearm ) screw first. Don't know that it makes a difference. Bill
 
I torque the action screws on my gun to 40 in-lbs. Regarding the order, with my experimentation I have found that the order does not matter to much but I like to torque them down in the same order each time I torque the screws down. I like to use the FAT wrench to torque down screws. You can get a FAT wrench at http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=718023 for about $50.00, worth the price you will like it I know you will.
 
billmo said:
Normally, the,2) screw actions require 65 in. lbs. and the,3) screw actions require 25 in. lbs. I always snug both and torque the front,forearm ) screw first. Don't know that it makes a difference. Bill

Bill on the 3 screw actions, the two main screws still get 65 pound/inches... the center screw gets enuff to keep things in place.

In the M70, the center screw holds the back of the magazine box, and it it's too tight, it will bind the action.

These little screws are not used to hold the action in place - they are used to hold other "pieces parts" in place... the trigger guard on the ADL, and the mag boxes in M70's.


.
 
Catshooter, Yea I know the little screws don't get torqued. I was refering to the Savage,3) screw action when I mentioned the third screw. The reason I said 25 in lbs. on those was because that was what Savage had told me by phone when I got my 12 F-class and pulled it from the stock. I was about to torque it to the 65 in. lbs. when I realized that may not be right and called them. Who knows? It may not do any harm to go to 65. Bill
 
If a gun was properly bedded, you wouldn't have to worry about
"how many inch pounds" or "which order"
It's not a tuning aid. Screws are only there to hold it all together.

Al
 
alf said:
If a gun was properly bedded, you wouldn't have to worry about
"how many inch pounds" or "which order"
It's not a tuning aid. Screws are only there to hold it all together.

Al

Yes you would. The screws keep the bedding under constant compression. What ever vibration the barrel undergoes when the gun is fired, it needs to be the same,as much as possible) from shot to shot, and week to week, and month and year...

And if the center screws on am M70 are too tight, it will bind the action...,I have the tee-shirt).


.
 
Wasn't talking about the center screw. But......

Put your t-shirt on and call Dave Tooley and Tom Meridith
and argue with them about torque.

Al
 
alf said:
Put your t-shirt on and call Dave Tooley and Tom Meridith
and argue with them about torque.

Al

Why would I argue with them about torgue? They didn't post anything...

On the other hand, if either of them want to argue with me, they can send me an e-mail.


.
 
I think way too much is made about torquing screws to a specific value... as if that is a magic number..

It is far more important the bedding be correct... and that the anchoring screws are firmly tight...

If you loosen one screw and get barrel movement over 2 thou, your bedding is not perfect.,With a free floated barrel)
 
DennisSorensen said:
I think way too much is made about torquing screws to a specific value... as if that is a magic number..

It is far more important the bedding be correct... and that the anchoring screws are firmly tight...

If you loosen one screw and get barrel movement over 2 thou, your bedding is not perfect.,With a free floated barrel)

I don't think there is a "magic number" but 65 pound/inches is common, and many shooting supply outfits sell "T" snap wrenches at this weight.

I do think that whatever you use, you need to get back to that figure when you pull the rifle apart and put it together... if your shooting does not allow sighters, and you must hit on the first shot.

If you have a floating heavy barrel, and loosen the tang screw, I can assure you that no matter how good the bedding job is, you will get more than 2 thou drop at the muzzle...


.
 
In my experience, with a Savage, you'll get best results if you tension front and rear screws incrementally. Also, after getting both screws snug, but not super-tight, bump the rifle on its butt,with muzzle up), to help seat the recoil lug, then proceed to snug up the front, then rear, then front again until they are quite tight.

In a skim-bedded laminate stock, I found pretty tight torque produced the best accuracy, and that it pays to snug up the action,or at least check the torque) before each match.

Just how tight?

Fred Moreo at SharpShooter Supply recommends 65 inch-lbs front and 55 inch-lbs rear with a laminated wood stock with pillars. However, he adds: "If your bedding is good, the exact torque isn't too critical. Just go back and forth--don't just crank the front as tight as you can get it, then do the rear."
 
A big Thanks You to all that took the time to answer my question. I now know where to start. Thanks again !!!
Mr. Bill
 

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