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Accuracy of Manson tapered bushings?

I have recently bought a lathe and am looking to tinker/true up a couple of my own rifles. I like the looks of the PTG action indication setup but the price of the setup is prohibitive. The Manson mandrel with the 2 tapered centering bushings is much more my price range. However it's been explained that the straight bushings of the ptg are "more" accurate.
My question is how much more accurate are they if any?
Any one tested both setups side by side??
Thanks much Shawn
 
A tapered bushing will center so long as the edge of the hole its going into is even. The rear bridge of the action is not even. When you insert a tapered bushing into the rear bridge the rod will not be centered in the rear bridge. Tapered bushings are not the best option IMO. Full diameter mandrels are my preferred tool.
 
I agree 100% with what Alex said. I have the Manson set, it is definitely not something you can stick bushings in and indicate quickly. If you put tapered bushings in action, when you slide rod through, it will hit next bushing, not go into it.
 
I have both tapered and straight bushings, remember it takes two. One in front of the cutter the second on the pilot. I usually find the rear bridge ID about .001" smaller than the front bridge. I have reamers for .703", .705", .708", and .710". Most action used for hunting can be cleaned up with the .703" or .705". This takes the high/tight spots out and allows for you to use a .701" or .703" replacement bolt. Tor really clean up the bolt race one needs to use a .705" or .708" bolt race reamer. I recommend you do it in steps. With the action reamed .705" I would recommend a .703" bolt body. For a .708" bolt race I would recommend a .705" bolt body. Dave Manson will make you straight bushings by custom order. If your going to do this for a business I recommend getting pairs of straight bushings from .699" to .708" in half thousands increments.
Nat Lambeth
 
I have both tapered and straight bushings, remember it takes two. One in front of the cutter the second on the pilot. I usually find the rear bridge ID about .001" smaller than the front bridge. I have reamers for .703", .705", .708", and .710". Most action used for hunting can be cleaned up with the .703" or .705". This takes the high/tight spots out and allows for you to use a .701" or .703" replacement bolt. Tor really clean up the bolt race one needs to use a .705" or .708" bolt race reamer. I recommend you do it in steps. With the action reamed .705" I would recommend a .703" bolt body. For a .708" bolt race I would recommend a .705" bolt body. Dave Manson will make you straight bushings by custom order. If your going to do this for a business I recommend getting pairs of straight bushings from .699" to .708" in half thousands increments.
Nat Lambeth
Dave Manson has been in business for a long, long time. And for good reason!
 
Thanks much guys. I try to pre research before I spend my money. At the hobby stage I'm at now and the wife watching the checkbook I can't afford a monetary hard luck learning experience. If I can avoid it!
 
If I understand your original post, you are talking about trueing the action NOT boring out the bolt race...if that is true the Manson kit with tapered bushing are just as good (IMO) as the straight bushings that PTG makes. I have both the Manson and PTG kits and do not see an advantage of the non-tapered bushings over the tapered for guiding the mandrel that trues action face and locking lug recess, or the tap mandrel..

Eddie in Texas
 
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Good point, I've never ran into that problem yet. In the few I've done, limited experience, they have all been tight with the larger .703 mandrel.
 
I agree 100% with what Alex said. I have the Manson set, it is definitely not something you can stick bushings in and indicate quickly. If you put tapered bushings in action, when you slide rod through, it will hit next bushing, not go into it.
Depends on which direction they're inserted.
 

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