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Accuracy Node - have I moved away from it?

Hi,

Do the groups indicate that the FPS has moved out of the accuracy node? I am wondering if fowling is pushing up FPS and moving me out of the node as the final groups are approx twice the size of the first 3 groups...

How would you guys interpret the data?

I worked a ladder up for 6BR shooting 95 Berger VLD. I decided to focus on 30.5 grns varget with CCI450 and lapua brass.

From a bench I shot two fowlers and then shot 5 - 3 shot groups, between each 3 shot group I seated the bullets, letting barrel cool - all seating depths were measured, with a max spread of .001" (BTW powder was measured to the kernel). The chrono data and groups are below.

GRP1:
95 Berger VLD Target 2867
CCI450 2867
Varget 30.5 2879
6.9 SD
12 ES

GP2:
95 Berger VLD Target 2873
CCI450 2879
Varget 30.5 2879
3.4 SD
6 ES

GRP3:
95 Berger VLD Target 2886
CCI450 2892
Varget 30.5 2898
6 SD
12 ES

GRP4:
95 Berger VLD Target 2886
CCI450 2898
Varget 30.5 2917
15.6 SD
31 ES

GRP5:
95 Berger VLD Target 2879
CCI450 2892
Varget 30.5 2905
13 SD
26 ES
 

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I'd say the groups are mostly excellent for 200 yards. Really. In one 6BR we found the best accuracy for this bullet at 31.3 grains, about .010 into lands. NOTE: this was with a 3-groove barrel and you may not be able to load to that level, depending on your barrel, freebore length etc.

I don't know about fouling. But I was suspect barrel heating up is affecting your average speeds.
 
Was the one variable in these tests? Seating depth?

When I do this kind of thing I most often start with small variations in powder weight, keeping the bullet and seating depth constant, then look for vertical displacement on target compared to velocity. What I want to find is a range of charge weights where I see a low vertical spread, hopefully also with fairly close FPS numbers, from the middle of which I then pick a charge weight for further study or use.

If I then feel a need to reduce group size I'll vary seating depth. As I don't shoot BR (preferring a sling & match sights for long range) my selection tolerances are probably a little more forgiving. Mostly I shoot 6mm bullets (Berger's 105 VLD most often) seated 0.020" off the lands.

Your groups all look pretty good; the spread you're seeing could be from fouling, small variances in the bullets themselves (which Berger generally has less of in a given batch but it still happens), or even a bit of change in your bench technique from shot to shot. You didn't mention anything about this rifle's barrel, so if it's fairly new you might see improvements the more you shoot it.
 
spclark - sorry I should have been more clear. The Seating depth was the same for each group, and the max spread within all loads was .001".

Rifle is a Howa rebarreled in 6BR - nothing flash has ~900 rounds down it. I am reasonably happy with the groups, more I am interested in the steady FPS climb and then the plateau...the higher FPS seem to be associated with the groups opening up. I am wondering if I need to have a slightly lower load which moves into the accuracy node under round count rather than out of it...admittedly I haven't completed more testing to see if the FPS plateau holds.

Forum Boss - is there an article about barrel heat and FPS somewhere? Temp was ~ 9 celsius and the rate of fire was slow, I could barely detect heat in the barrel with my fingers.
 
Your 9 C is our 48 F so a slow pace of shooting ought not to heat a barrel too much, but it still happens.

Whether a lower charge would do what you suggest bears further testing but at the same time so might a higher load weight.

That load, with a 105 - 107 grain bullet, is kind of the benchmark load for 6BR against which others are to be compared. If you have heavier bullets around and your barrel has a twist rate of 1:8 or faster (what length BTW?) you might want to try that at the same session, just for more information.

Varget can be a "dirty burning"powder in some rifles & cartridges. A shooting buddy of mine conjectured the propellant manufacturers blend stuff in that they expect will act as a bullet lube every time a round goes off. If your testing begins with a squeaky clean bore, that could be what you're seeing the cumulative effect of: a build-up of this "lube" stuff as round count goes up. After a certain point there's enough laid down that the effect levels off, things "settle in" from there.

Too, if that particular powder and bullet in your barrel tends to be a little dirty with that charge weight, upping the charge may improve its burning characteristics to a point you see less of this effect. More is better, in other words... to a point.

This is the kind of thing that drives shooters nuts when trying to get the highest, most predictable performance out of their hardware. Problem is, conditions change a little bit (sometimes a LOT!) with every round that's fired so it's like shooting at a moving target.

Tell us all a little more about your rifle & test set-up. Maybe something you've left out will help us "remote assistants" figure out what's going on.
 
6BRinNZ first of all that is good shooting at 200.

I looking at the FPS and the load,, IT LOOKS TO ALL BE THE SAME LOAD? nothing changed?

im just trying to understand what you have there..?
if its all the same load ..there is a 50 FPS ES.. thats not that good.. if that is the case. i would say its out of tune
not a good load.. some time 3 shot groups show alittle better on a target,,but would suspect if you were shooting that load as a 5 shot group you would see more of pattern to it..like maybe more powder(if possible) or bullet seating depth ect.
 
spclark - thanks, food for thought there. The rifle is a Howa supreme varminter pillar bedded and chambered in 6BR 1-8 26". The trigger is factory and set at ~1.25 lbs. Bolt face is unbushed and is the limiting factor for pressure, in part why I use cci450 primers...I could maybe squeeze another .5grn but not sure how I would get on in summer. I have gone for the 95 Berger as the throat is short on this rifle but with the 95 Berger, it has such a short bearing surface and high BC that it fits well and will get me out to 900 yrds....I was hoping 1000 but at these fps it is looking too marginal....I am reluctant to send my bolt overseas to get it bushed....

I'm using a caldwell front rest with protector front and rear bags...again nothing flash. While groups 1-3 have a round popped out, I am happy to put that down to me/setup....groups 4-5 open up in general.

FJIM - yes all the same load, nothing changed. Only 3 shot groups at this stage as the agg would be enough to tell me if I need to look elsewhere...I am happy enough with grps 1-3, and I would work on them further if it stayed consistent.

I have been thinking the same thing - what would I see in a 5 shot group...but I suspect 5 shot groups starts to switch from the load factor to the me factor...so I didn't want to go there this early on in the development stage....maybe this is a mistake?

Yes the 50 fps ES has me as well, it is the thing I am most interested in at this stage...it is a sure and steady climb...it does appear to plateau.....Groups 4 & 5 have the worst ES/SD numbers and are also the larger groups, group 4 is the worst of the lot and appears to be a turning point for the worse...the chrono is cheap so if I get an odd round that spikes ES I am not going to sweat it...

Maybe I should repeat the test to see if the pattern is consistent...or maybe I need to take a different tack? i.e. try different powder, primer...not to make smaller groups but to bring consistency into line...this is a difficult one to gauge as most of what we see on forums is single groups.

As an aside would it be reasonable to shoot 5 - 3 shot groups all as tight as the first 3 groups at 200?

I appreciate the help.
 
To eliminate barrel heating from the equation the ladder test guru's say to shoot them in a round robin deal where you alternate shots from target to target to eliminate that variable.
It get's a little confusing and you have to mark the bullets with a Sharpie pen or use another scheme to not get mixed up.

If you didn't use wind flags at that distance it's hard to say but looks like you had just a little vertical till the last 2 shots then the wind moved you to the right a bit and you may have missed a subtle switch- it doesn't take much as distance grows. Left to right wind can drop the bullet too and may explain the last 2 groups opening out there a little but it looks really good.

It seems most people complain a warming barrel raises the point of impact but all barrels are different.

Also check the Caldwell top and see if it moves a little when your looking through the scope as my buddies top was a little loose fitting on the stock till we tweaked it.
 
Wayne,
Looks like you may be getting some carbon built up in the throat, the next time you clean the barrel when your all done check for carbon, once you get all the carbon out shoot several foulers through it to foul the barrel and warm it up, then try to shoot all groups with the barrel approximately the same temperature, maybe this will help some and maybe others are right and you need to finish tuning your load, best of luck to you.
Wayne.
 
Thanks to all for the input.
Its winter here so a bit of time to mull things over....shooting time is a premium anyways... I think I will take this load and repeat in summer with a view to just shooting it...for now I will ignore the chrono numbers and go by the paper. I may look to try the CCI400 primer as I am fairly sure that will hold up at these pressures and might be the ES answer.

I am quite excited....lots of promise ahead.

in2deep - thanks for the tips

Wayne - I had the barrel bore scoped and all looks ok there.

Time to focus on the wind :)
 
Thought I would post a quick update, - placed 3rd in F-open at 900yrds with this load, I think I was the only 6mm as everyone else was shooting a .260 or a 7mm variant. Winds were switching between 3-7mph and 5-3 o'clock. I missed the 300 and 500 relays (season start) due to other commitments but I am well pleased. I need to re-chrono the load as pressures were up a bit with the temperature change I guess...

I am stoked with the 95 Berger's and hope to give the 7mms a good hurry up at 600yrds next weekend :)

Thanks for all your input.
 
Last weekend shooting my 6XC at 1,000 yards I was keeping up with 2 6.5x284 shooters just fine until I shot a pinwheel X (of course!) in the first days' iron sights match on a target two over from mine... an F-Class target (5" X-ring) to boot!

I'd be reluctant to use anything lighter for 1,000 while your experience lead me to want to try the Berger 95 at 600 next year. Outdoor shooting season's almost over here :-\
 
I have certainly seen velocity go up with round count in a few different barrels, definitley with my 6 Dasher also using 2208 (Varget).
I know with my last 7mm, I used 2 boxes of ammo. The first box was .2gns hotter than the box I used after the first target. A few different barrels I have had from 224 to 30 cal, when running shots over a crony, some of them plateau at 3-4 shots, some , like my old 284 after 20 shots.

By the way 6BR, my next project is a 6BR shooting either 88gn FB LD bullets or the 95VLDs. I love the little guns.
 
6BRinNZ said:
Do the groups indicate that the FPS has moved out of the accuracy node? I am wondering if fowling is pushing up FPS and moving me out of the node as the final groups are approx twice the size of the first 3 groups... How would you guys interpret the data?

Data? The proof is on the target. You tune with bullet/brass/powder/primer combinations, not FPS. You fine tune with neck tension and seating depth.

The first three groups look great for two hundred yards. How much did the conditions change for the fourth and fifth groups? Were you shooting over wind flags and using the same condition for all your targets? [Five-shot groups or much better than three, and ten targets at each load are a much better comparison than one each, which tells you very little to nothing for comparison.]

In a no wind situation like a tunnel, using one bullet hole as a base line, if you are one bullet hole higher [one on top of the other, the edges are just touching] you have one bullet hole of vertical and are .3 of a grain out of tune, if you have two bullet holes above the base you have two bullet holes holes of vertical and are completely out of tune by .6 of a grain.

But again, how much of a difference between the first three targets and the last two are a function of missing changes in conditions?

And here's another item to consider, how much of a change in temperature took place from target one to target five? Did you know you can go from in tune to completely out of tune with a 20 degree change in Temperature?

Here's a discussion to consider regardless of caliber. Gene Beggs responds to the question:

Q: 6ppc using v 133 powder. Is it just humidity or is humidity & temp that affect tune? When the Humidity goes down I go up on the powder to keep my gun in tune? Is it that the powder kernals weigh less with lower humidity so I have to go up on the charge? Is it that the conditions change the harmonics of the barrel. Is it that the bullet travels through the air differently with the changes in conditions?

A: Changes in air density makes our rifles to go out of tune. If the bullets are exiting when the barrel is stopped at either the top or bottom of the swing, the rifle is in tune. If the atmosphere becomes less dense due to an increase in temperature, the bullet encounters less resistance as it travels down the bore and exits early before the barrel comes to a complete stop, in which case, we can either reduce the load or adjust the tuner to compensate. I think it's much simpler and easier to use a tuner. You NEVER have to change the load and can make your adjustments at the line.

Atmospheric density is the result of pressure altitude, temperature and to a far lesser degree, moisture content. Contrary to what many believe, dry air is heavier. Steam rises and it's 100 percent saturated.

So .. altitude, temp and humidity in that order. What do we mean by altitude? Range elevation above sea level. The Midland Shooters Association range is 2800 feet above sea level; that never changes so we can forget about it. Yes, slight variations in barametric pressure can change the pressure altitude but for all practical purposes, we can forget about it.

****Temperature? This is the big one! It's actually the only thing you must concern yourself with. The temperature range from being perfectly in tune and being completely out is 20 degrees F.****

Yep, if your rifle is perfectly in tune during the first match of the day when temperature is 70 it will be completely out of tune when the temp reaches 90 if you do nothing to compensate.

To keep the rifle in tune throughout the day, reduce the velocity 30 fps for each five degree increase in temp. With most powders, N133 being the classic example, this equates to one half click per five degrees. For example, let's say your rifle was in tune for the first match; temp was 70. Your Culver type measure was set on 54 clicks. When temp reaches 75 the proper click value is 53.5, for 80, 53, 75, 52.5 and for 90F, 52 clicks. Would you have ever believed it would take two full numbers to stay in tune with a twenty degree spread?

"Now wait a minute Beggs; are you telling me relative humidity has nothing to do with it?" Yep, that's right; very little, so little that for all practical purposes we can ignore it.

Relative humidity (RH) is expressed in percent of saturation at a given temperature. If RH is reported as 30%, temp 85 degrees, this means the air contains thirty percent of the moisture it is capable of holding at that temperature. If temp goes up, RH goes down and vice versa even though the amount of moisture in the air is exactly the same.

Some shooters say they adjust the powder charge by relative humidity; RH goes down, they go down on the load and vice versa insisting it is humidity that affects the rifle's tune when in fact it is the change in temperature that is actually responsible.

BTW, you asked if changes in conditions affects barrel harmonics?" NO

If the rifle is in tune at 100 yards, it will also be in tune at 200, 300, etc. With tuning, all we are doing is timing bullet exit to coincide with one or the other stops of the muzzle. It has nothing to do with yardage. Some say you have to retune the rifle for a headwind, tailwind, left crosswind vs., right etc. That makes no sense to me. External ballistics apply only to the bullet's flight path after it leaves the muzzle.

If you had to change the tune at 200 yards from that which shot well at 100 yards, my question is, "Was the temp the same; how much time elapsed between the last group at 100 yards and the first at 200?" A ten degree increase in temperature will make a noticeable difference in vertical.

What many shooters do not understand is the fact that tuning is condition specific. The rifle will be in tune only as long as there is no change in atmospheric conditions. You cannot set the tuner to a specific position today and expect the rifle to remain in tune tomorrow unless there is no change whatsoever in atmospheric conditions.

Before the first match of the day, always zero the tuner by turning it all the way in and backing it off one revolution, placing the reference mark in the 12:00 o'clock position. This will always be your starting point regardless of location or temp.

My feeling is that it doesn't matter whether or not you load in an air conditioned trailer. The thing that matters is the outside temperature and its affect on air density at the firing line.

The test group on the sighter will tell you whether or not the rifle is in tune. Make all tuner adjustments in reference to outside air temperature. If tuning with the powder charge, the same thing applies. If the rifle shows a full amount of vertical on the sighter the charge can either be increased or decreased .6 grains to bring the rifle in tune.
 
Outdoorsman said:
6BRinNZ said:
Do the groups indicate that the FPS has moved out of the accuracy node? I am wondering if fowling is pushing up FPS and moving me out of the node as the final groups are approx twice the size of the first 3 groups... How would you guys interpret the data?

Data? The proof is on the target. You tune with bullet/brass/powder/primer combinations, not FPS. You fine tune with neck tension and seating depth.

The first three groups look great for two hundred yards. How much did the conditions change for the fourth and fifth groups? Were you shooting over wind flags and using the same condition for all your targets? [Five-shot groups or much better than three, and ten targets at each load are a much better comparison than one each, which tells you very little to nothing for comparison.]

In a no wind situation like a tunnel, using one bullet hole as a base line, if you are one bullet hole higher [one on top of the other, the edges are just touching] you have one bullet hole of vertical and are .3 of a grain out of tune, if you have two bullet holes above the base you have two bullet holes holes of vertical and are completely out of tune by .6 of a grain.

But again, how much of a difference between the first three targets and the last two are a function of missing changes in conditions?

And here's another item to consider, how much of a change in temperature took place from target one to target five? Did you know you can go from in tune to completely out of tune with a 20 degree change in Temperature?

Here's a discussion to consider regardless of caliber. Gene Beggs responds to the question:

Q: 6ppc using v 133 powder. Is it just humidity or is humidity & temp that affect tune? When the Humidity goes down I go up on the powder to keep my gun in tune? Is it that the powder kernals weigh less with lower humidity so I have to go up on the charge? Is it that the conditions change the harmonics of the barrel. Is it that the bullet travels through the air differently with the changes in conditions?

A: Changes in air density makes our rifles to go out of tune. If the bullets are exiting when the barrel is stopped at either the top or bottom of the swing, the rifle is in tune. If the atmosphere becomes less dense due to an increase in temperature, the bullet encounters less resistance as it travels down the bore and exits early before the barrel comes to a complete stop, in which case, we can either reduce the load or adjust the tuner to compensate. I think it's much simpler and easier to use a tuner. You NEVER have to change the load and can make your adjustments at the line.

Atmospheric density is the result of pressure altitude, temperature and to a far lesser degree, moisture content. Contrary to what many believe, dry air is heavier. Steam rises and it's 100 percent saturated.

So .. altitude, temp and humidity in that order. What do we mean by altitude? Range elevation above sea level. The Midland Shooters Association range is 2800 feet above sea level; that never changes so we can forget about it. Yes, slight variations in barametric pressure can change the pressure altitude but for all practical purposes, we can forget about it.

****Temperature? This is the big one! It's actually the only thing you must concern yourself with. The temperature range from being perfectly in tune and being completely out is 20 degrees F.****

Yep, if your rifle is perfectly in tune during the first match of the day when temperature is 70 it will be completely out of tune when the temp reaches 90 if you do nothing to compensate.

To keep the rifle in tune throughout the day, reduce the velocity 30 fps for each five degree increase in temp. With most powders, N133 being the classic example, this equates to one half click per five degrees. For example, let's say your rifle was in tune for the first match; temp was 70. Your Culver type measure was set on 54 clicks. When temp reaches 75 the proper click value is 53.5, for 80, 53, 75, 52.5 and for 90F, 52 clicks. Would you have ever believed it would take two full numbers to stay in tune with a twenty degree spread?

"Now wait a minute Beggs; are you telling me relative humidity has nothing to do with it?" Yep, that's right; very little, so little that for all practical purposes we can ignore it.

Relative humidity (RH) is expressed in percent of saturation at a given temperature. If RH is reported as 30%, temp 85 degrees, this means the air contains thirty percent of the moisture it is capable of holding at that temperature. If temp goes up, RH goes down and vice versa even though the amount of moisture in the air is exactly the same.

Some shooters say they adjust the powder charge by relative humidity; RH goes down, they go down on the load and vice versa insisting it is humidity that affects the rifle's tune when in fact it is the change in temperature that is actually responsible.

BTW, you asked if changes in conditions affects barrel harmonics?" NO

If the rifle is in tune at 100 yards, it will also be in tune at 200, 300, etc. With tuning, all we are doing is timing bullet exit to coincide with one or the other stops of the muzzle. It has nothing to do with yardage. Some say you have to retune the rifle for a headwind, tailwind, left crosswind vs., right etc. That makes no sense to me. External ballistics apply only to the bullet's flight path after it leaves the muzzle.

If you had to change the tune at 200 yards from that which shot well at 100 yards, my question is, "Was the temp the same; how much time elapsed between the last group at 100 yards and the first at 200?" A ten degree increase in temperature will make a noticeable difference in vertical.

What many shooters do not understand is the fact that tuning is condition specific. The rifle will be in tune only as long as there is no change in atmospheric conditions. You cannot set the tuner to a specific position today and expect the rifle to remain in tune tomorrow unless there is no change whatsoever in atmospheric conditions.

Before the first match of the day, always zero the tuner by turning it all the way in and backing it off one revolution, placing the reference mark in the 12:00 o'clock position. This will always be your starting point regardless of location or temp.

My feeling is that it doesn't matter whether or not you load in an air conditioned trailer. The thing that matters is the outside temperature and its affect on air density at the firing line.

The test group on the sighter will tell you whether or not the rifle is in tune. Make all tuner adjustments in reference to outside air temperature. If tuning with the powder charge, the same thing applies. If the rifle shows a full amount of vertical on the sighter the charge can either be increased or decreased .6 grains to bring the rifle in tune.
Outdoorsman,
I know this thread is a month old but I have kept it saved and read your post several times, I am interested more in learning how to tune a load or the rifle, does Gene Beggs have a book out or something? would there be any merit in having cases already loaded in +or- .3 and .6 of a grain powder charges from your normal optimal loads used at 1K yards or does this type of loading (tuning) only apply for short range BR?
Wayne.
 
Tuning is tuning, regardless of range. The barrel doesn't know how far the bullet is going to travel. All you're looking for is where it's at, on its up or down movement, on the sine wave [looks like a bell shaped curve], the optimum point, at which the barrel is in tune. It could be near the top or near the bottom.

Gene Beggs has a lot of his comments archived at Benchrest Central: http://benchrest.com/forum.php .

Use his name and Do an Advanced Search. Also, you may want to purchase: Rifle Accuracy Facts by Harold R. Vaughn, if you haven't already. Chapter 4, Barrel Vibration is especially good. Check out pages 86 & 87.

A lot of this is also covered, albeit in different jargon, in Tony Boyer's new book too.
 

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