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A quick question for Wilson neck die users. (arbor press)

I'd use Powdered Graphite (dip the loading end) not wet lube like Sizing Wax.
 
I've done both. Run them dry when I'm pressed for time.

I usually use Imperial wax. I've used the graphite but it takes a bit longer (seemingly, anyway.) Ideally, you should remove the wax after sizing.

If you decide to run un-lubed brass, be prepared to clean the embedded brass from your bushing every now and then (couple/three hundred rounds is about the max, in my case.) It'll cause vertical scratches on the necks. I spin a piece of oiled 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper in the bushing for a couple of seconds. Works for me.
 
I use 0000 steel wool on my necks to remove powder fouling, and it has some palm oil in it to prevent it from rusting. After the 0000 I wipe them off with a cloth, but only lightly to get off the residue. I believe that that leaves a slight amount of the oil on the necks. I do not add any lube and have never had any problems with Wilson bushings that way. Of course the force it takes to size a neck that is less than .009 thick is minimal. (.0086 for .263neck, ,0081+- for ..262) Of course I normally use a FL bushing die so for that, of course I lube the body, just not the neck. One other thing might mitigate brass build up in my bushings. After I turn cases, while they are still on the power adapter, I chamfer, debur, and then grab the neck with a wad of 0000 and spin the drill up to top speed for a couple of seconds, which polishes the necks a bit. I do it with pressure on the end of the neck and that smooths up the cuts.
 
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I only size the necks with the Wilson dies. The case body doesn’t get sized. Clean necks. No lube.
When I full length size I lube - but neck size .004” - no need to add two steps.
 

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