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7mm08

First off I am new here to the site so....Hello everyone!

I bought a little 7mm08 Savage Axis back about a month ago for Whitetail hunting. I the little gun shoots ok but not as good as I would like. 2" @ 100 yds is the best I can get it to shoot. Really want to get it to within a MOA. It has a 22" barrel and a 9.5" twist. The only ammo I can find locally being 140 grain stuff and it does not seem to like it. I have not started reloading yet but that is on my list as soon as I recover from Christmas.

I have killed a couple deer with it already and it puts them down with that load but I still want a little better performance on the group size when shooting paper. I have confidence in the rifles ability to kill a deer as long as I do my part I just hope my expectations are not too high for wanting or wishing this little rifle was a tack driver.

I'm looking for any suggestions anyone can offer as to whether I would I be better going to a heavier or longer bullet or go to a lighter weight bullet with this twist rate?

Thanks!
 
Is your axis still in the original tupperware stock? If it is look into the boyds designed for the axis.I think with a stiffer stock and some bedding you might be very well pleased.Also welcome to a splendid forum to learn on and make friends.
 
I developed a reduced load in a 308 axis ,for a young shooter ,a few years ago . this rifle shot pretty good , I was pleasantly surprised . the one thing I would recommend would be some trigger work , or replacement . if I remember right the trigger was around 6.5 - 7 lbs pull . it's really hard to shoot a light rifle , with that stiff of a trigger .
 
Try some superformance ammo. The 9.5 twist will shoot most bullets well. Don't know what type of ammo your running but unless you shooting decent stuff it's hard to bank on accurate factory rounds.
 
I worked up a load for a .223 Axis for a friend. The trigger is horrendous. The only accuracy goal it was designed for was Minute of Deer at 100 yards. I don't think that rifle is capable of anything better than that.
 
Own an Axis myself in .223. First thing you need to do is google Axis trigger job. You should find numerous posts on various gunsites about it. With a little work on your part and perhaps a minimal investment....talking less than $2, you should get the trigger pull down to 2 to 3 lbs. Or you can spend around $95 or so and buy a Rifle Basix trigger. This will improve your accuracy. As to stock. Well it sucks. LOL! But, you might want to check the barrel channel for any contact with barrel....which you should find and with just sandpaper, eliminate any contact of forestock with the barrel. Mind you, the connection of the rear of trigger guard piece with stock leaves a lot to be desired. Darn trigger guard part occupies a large part of weakest/thinnest area of stock at the wrist. This is the area below and just behind rear of action. Lousy connection/design of rear of trigger guard allows the stock to flex when pulling the trigger. Chuckle, had about a 3/4" upward movement of my scope crosshair on a 100 yd target with my original Axis stock, just when pulling the trigger. Lightning the trigger pull will reduce this movement, but not stop it. Boyd's did recently began selling a stock for the Axis. Suspect their sells on an Axis stock has been good. Me, I made a new stock for my Axis shortly after buying the rifle.
 
Thanks Everyone. The trigger was the first thing that I worked on after shooting it the first time. It was awful as you say it was around 6 to 7 lbs. Got it down to 2.5 lbs.

The ammo I have shot so far is the Federal Fusion in 140 grain, Winchester power point in 140 grain, and the Remington Core locked in 140 grain. The overall length of the three loads I have shot is all over the place which I understand because of the bullet style being different but the only one that approaches the published OACL is the Remington and it is the one that shoots the best. I hope it's as simple as the OACL is just way back on these factory loads, Don't have anyway to measure the overall of my chamber yet but that is next in my plan just as soon as the stuff comes in. I have heard that these rifles have an extremely long throat on them but I do not know because this is my first experience with an Axis.

I was really hoping not to have to go to a much heavier bullet, meaning over 150. But, I am willing to do whatever I have to within reason to make it shoot. It's bugging me bad!
 
Rolling your own always works out better in the end. You can try going lighter too. Sierra’s 120 grain Pro Hunter can do 2900 or 3000 fps from a 7mm-08 per their data and it’s plenty enuf bullet for slaying Bambi.
 
I don't want to come across condencending here but are you a relative newcomer to handloading?

The reason I ask is you were refering to book COAL's etc.

What I do first with any rifle/handgun with fixed barrel/chambers is find the lands with bullet seating with each new bullet.

Then I will generally back off between 10 to upwards of 30 thousands. I start loading at a start charges. Write that down in a very secure place because you'll always want to be able to find that when you change primers or powder but still use that bullet.

If I were in progress with a load and decided to do the above, I'd treat it like a brand new load and go back to the start charges and work up safely.

If you already are into the above, I apologize for bringing it up.

Now, the Axis. I don't have one but I am into the Savage scene quite a bit. A friend recently bought one and I'll be helping him with it.

You've addressed your trigger and that's good. Even better can be had but it makes your economical rifle cost more. It's all up to your situation.

But the tuppeware stock even if you float it will daunt you. One can stiffen them with carbon arrow shafts and bedding compound ...... how well that works, I don't know but it and trigger jobs are documented over at Savageshooters forum. It does cost an annual registration fee to get to some of the areas. Not bad though.

I think the Boyd's stock would be a good choice if you don't care to fool around and be inventive.

Best regards and good shooting!

Three 44s
 
I have 3 Axis rifles a 30/06, a 7mm08, and a .223 the 06 and .223 shoot very well the 7mm08 is all over the place though. I sold a weatherby vanguard S2 sporter in 7mm08 that didn't shoot for beans and bought the savage that also don't shoot for beans, i'm beginning to think the 7mm08 just isn't the accurate cartridge it used to be? I had a 700 bdl from the 90's that could drive tacks. Maybe they changed the twist rates or something? The .223 trigger is pretty nice, but the other 2 axis rifles are heavy.
 
I've slugged .30 Savage barrels on multiple occasions and found them to be .0015" to .002" larger at the muzzle than at the chamber. I also have a Savage in .223Rem that has an under diameter freebore. I'm not saying that is the case with your barrel, but you might want to check into it before deciding what/if you want to start spending time and money on upgrades. Stocks and triggers won't fix an out of spec barrel.
And Savage considers 2MOA to be acceptable in their low end rifles. Found that out the hard way.
 
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If you handload then most 140 gr class bullets with stout doses of WW760/H-414 should get you good accuracy. It does in mine. As far as
factory loads a friend gave me some 139 Hornady GMX to try . Had not shot factory in years. The accuracy with this factory load was astounding. Only shot a few 3 shot groups but they were all around the 1/2 moa mark.
 
IMR 4064 for 130-150gr pills

My rifles would shot knots at the top and bottom charge ranges.

In between and the groups doubled
 
First off,great chambering.... the 7-08 is just a nice blend of easy to shoot,easy to load for,power,etc.

Take this from someone who has done "practically" everything there can be done to factory tupperware stocks. Occasionally, with way too much effort,you'll come across one.... with mostly factory rifle otherwise.... that ends up,OK. And that's about as far as the very best get,just OK.

Now,if it's a hunting stick(rig,weapon,etc) and is GOING to get beat on,well....OK ain't that bad?

Just saying,the "stock" plays a very vital role in the consistency required,from a foundational standpoint.Even if you stiffen the rubbery forend.... you still need to address the inconsistencies of that same rubber in the recoil lug area....and around magazine well...and "pillar" area....and wrist. Put it this way,a cheap beech/birch wood stock is easier to get to "behave" than some factory rubber stocks.

Good luck with your project.

Edit to add.... you can do a "hillbilly glue in" on rubber stocks,AFTER setting clearance on forearm and bedding.Spray bomb the stock,inside and out with rustoleum in your camo dejour and while wet,throw the action back in and torque it down. The paint drys and "glues" itself to the action.
 
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