783 Trigger Guard Replacement

[Knotwild]

I got my Boyd's stock bedded and found the weak spot in the factory trigger guard. Once the plastic is compressed a few times the action screw will protrude through the action tang and block the bolt. So I am looking for something that is metal to replace it if possible or any ideas for an easy fix. I am wondering if any other manufacturer's trigger guards can be adapted to work.

In the picture, the hole to the right is nothing but a wood screw into the stock. The hole to the left is for a 1/4" screw. The holes are spaced about 2.8" apart (center to center) and the guard is about 0.78 wide and about 3.74" long. The thickness of the trigger guard where the bolt goes through is about 0.13", but I don't have a tool to measure that, plus it is already squashed. I am wondering if a Savage, or Marlin, or some other might work. Or maybe someone has a better idea. No use continuing to use plastic for sure.

One option I thought of is to find a bushing about the thickness I need (or can file down), then just drill out the trigger guard and epoxy it in. It would have to accommodate a 1/4" screw have an OD that would allow me to drill a hole in the 0.78" wide guard and glue it in. But, the best option would be if someone said the measurements of another metal trigger guard is close enough to work. Of course the wood screw hole could be moved around to fit another guard.

I don't have things like a lathe, drill press, or milling machine, so it has to be "home doable".

This is on a rifle I plan to shoot and use, so it doesn't have to win a beauty contest.

Thanks in advance for the ideas.

 

[Ggmac]

Use a small steel flat washer under the trigger guard , open or chamfer the plastic guard so it'll be held in place by the outer edge of the rear screw . You may have to cut a bevel on the screw which can be done in a drill and file . Your going for all the compression on the washer and only holding the plastic in place . You'll have to modify/cut the overall length of the threads cause it'll set a little lower in the guard .
Hope this makes sense

 

[Ggmac]

Forget to mention , the front of this guard holds the back of your magazine so nothing is on the market yet to be a drop in fit .

 

[Knotwild]

Yes. That makes sense. It is similar to my idea of a bushing. Although I would have to cut a good bit off the screw. I was trying to avoid cutting the screw because I don't know how to file it down and still have the screw start in the action. I suppose I could do it with a triangle file. I have two trigger guards and I tried putting a washer between the stock and guard this morning and two shims under the bolt head. But when I torqued it to 35 ft lbs, the screw simply pulled all the way through the plastic.

Forgive me if I'm wrong, but the plastic stock that came with the rifle has a little ledge in the stock that the back of the magazine catches on. The Remington stock I bought off Ebay (which I am calling Boyd's) has a metal tab inside the stock that the rear of the magazine catches on. The magazine will stay in the stock with no trigger guard. The magazine has a tab on it to make it work.

That is why I was thinking a metal trigger guard exists somewhere that could be adapted. The PT&G unit is about $150, too much for a working rifle.

I just don't know where to find the measurements of other trigger guards to compare.

 

[jpx2rk]

Find a nut that will fit or thread onto the bolt in question, and put the nut on the bolt, THEN file the bolt down. The nut will clean the threads up to where it should thread into the action.

 

[Ggmac]

Yes. That makes sense. It is similar to my idea of a bushing. Although I would have to cut a good bit off the screw. I was trying to avoid cutting the screw because I don't know how to file it down and still have the screw start in the action. I suppose I could do it with a triangle file. I have two trigger guards and I tried putting a washer between the stock and guard this morning and two shims under the bolt head. But when I torqued it to 35 ft lbs, the screw simply pulled all the way through the plastic.

Forgive me if I'm wrong, but the plastic stock that came with the rifle has a little ledge in the stock that the back of the magazine catches on. The Remington stock I bought off Ebay (which I am calling Boyd's) has a metal tab inside the stock that the rear of the magazine catches on. The magazine will stay in the stock with no trigger guard. The magazine has a tab on it to make it work.

That is why I was thinking a metal trigger guard exists somewhere that could be adapted. The PT&G unit is about $150, too much for a working rifle.

I just don't know where to find the measurements of other trigger guards to compare.

View attachment 1098210

There exist no such measures, I've got about 25 different guards and nothing is a drop in . I've been doing the flat washer for many years and if done properly, turning the screw head to a sharp v , works .
I've got the same stock , non of my guards will fit as is , I have a $75 alum guards I can mill to make work and still have nth magazine secure . Sure the Remington stock has the block but without a close fit the mag wobbles and you'll have feed issues , not at first , just when the mag has been battered a bit . A 223 will still recoil a filled mag front to rear and sooner or later compress the mag attachment areas to either allow to drop or lower enough to not feed . Another issue I had with the Rem stock is to make sure you feed correctly before you glass bed . The mag needs to be high enough in the rifle to allow the back of the cartridge to be pushed by the bolt head . As my was a $80 from eBay , as it was simply assembled the back was too low to pick up a cartridge (223) .
The $75 alum guards were that price 15 yrs ago I'm sure they went up .
They were used on Winchester 52 d rifles

 

[Ggmac]

Find a nut that will fit or thread onto the bolt in question, and put the nut on the bolt, THEN file the bolt down. The nut will clean the threads up to where it should thread into the action.

It a 1/4 x32 , nuts aren't really available, I make mine

 

[Knotwild]

Thanks for your help and input Gary. I am on an island literally most of the time, so I don't usually have what I need. I did finally find a few washers that fit inside the stock and was able to get it up and shooting today. Now I see what you mean about turning the screw head to a sharp V. I don't want to fall into the trap of having $1K in a $350 dollar rifle. It's fun trying to make a cheap knock around gun.
I really appreciate your help.

Forgot to mention it's feeding fine. I shot it about 20 times today with no problems.