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6SLR SRP brass?

I have been playing with some Alpha 260 SRP brass in my 6SLR, but their SRP brass has the .080 flash hole. I have seen many opinions that the large hole with SRP isnt the best set up.
Was wondering what some of you other guys have found with Peterson or Sako brass, does their SRP have the .060 flash hole? are you using 243 or 260 brass?
So far Lapua is the only one that actually states using a small flash hole.

I have a good neck turning system on my lathe, so turning necks is no issue.

I know Winchester is the go to brass, but the 200 pieces I have are really piss poor, huge weight variations, out of round flash holes, huge size variations in the flash holes, so on and so on.

I have seen a few threads about this, but there has been very little follow up.

TIA,

Rick
 
Peterson SRP 243 Win brass (50 received from Brownells UK direct from the US in the last few weeks) is definitely small flash-hole.
 
I push the shoulder back further than need be so I am turning past the N/S junction and won’t ever see a donut
 
If you are a real gluten for punishment, use Palma brass, fair bit of turning involved but should last forever.


I tried some of them in SLR, the cheese wasn't worth the work for me especially not using a lathe to turn necks. I imagine if you really want to step on the gas then they will work out but my rifle shot best at "normal" pressure/speed levels just using Sako brass so I went back to size with a nice lite turn on the necks.

As for ever using Winchester brass again, id rather build another rifle and use Lapua or something off the shelf
 
If you are a real gluten for punishment, use Palma brass, fair bit of turning involved but should last forever.

I've bought 50 SP Petersons 243 to try in mine. I have a suspicion though that the SLR may work better with large primers given a case-full of Viht N165. I do use reformed 308 Palma in 7-08 in match use and I'm 100% certain that I'll wear the barrel out long before the brass.
 
I have used both Lapua 308 Palma and Peterson 243 Win small primer brass for making SLR cases. My reamer has a 270 neck so I do neck turn. When forming the Lapua Palma brass I got such bad doughnuts that I also had to ream the inside of the necks. Just not worth the trouble.
I had been shooting H4831SC with the small flash hole small primer brass however, my extreme spreads and SDs were not that good. I could get single digit SDs but not with the consistency I was looking for. I tried reaming the flash hole on a few of the Peterson cases but it didn't seem to solve the problem. A while back I had picked up some Sig Sauer 243 Win brass (large primer) at a very reasonable price in a local sporting goods store. I believe Cabelas also carries it. The Sig brass is similar to Winchester brass in that when forming it to the SLR you don't get doughnuts. It is however much better quality than Winchester brass. The large primer Sig SLR brass running 4831SC, Berger 109 hybrids, and either CCI or Ginex (mil spec) primers gives consistently better ES and SD numbers than the small primer brass. I would like to try other powders and primers but right now with the store shelves being bare that's hard to do.
I cant explain why the numbers were beter with the large primer brass but one thing I am trying to investigate is the firing pin fall on my action. My SLR uses a Bighorn action and the firing pin fall is slightly less than 0.2 in. so possibly I am having ignition problems with the small rifle primers. The action doesn't use a trigger hanger so I really cant do too much. However I have a heavier firing pin spring on order. I also have a new SLR barrel for my Savage action so I need to do some testing and see if that works better with the small primers.
 
I tried some of them in SLR, the cheese wasn't worth the work for me especially not using a lathe to turn necks. I imagine if you really want to step on the gas then they will work out but my rifle shot best at "normal" pressure/speed levels just using Sako brass so I went back to size with a nice lite turn on the necks.

As for ever using Winchester brass again, id rather build another rifle and use Lapua or something off the shelf
I have a mine lathe, made 50 cases last night from old brass in under an hour - if you are going to neck turn you might as well use quality brass. I think a hot primer is the go and people seem to use powders that are too slow for a case this size. 4831sc is the slowest powder I would run, I think 4350 is probably a better fit for case fill anyway.
 
I cant explain why the numbers were beter with the large primer brass but one thing I am trying to investigate is the firing pin fall on my action.

Much more likely barely adequate ignition from the smaller primer and small flash-hole. These (SP) combinations become powder sensitive at 40gn charge weights and above - some powders will perform very well indeed; others show there are problems through increased ES and SD values. Low ambient temperatures don't help either where this applies.
 

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