6mmBR - Dies and Cleaning equipment.

[Oldschool1]

Hi - well after years of lurking around this site i have a Savage 12 F-class in 6mmBR on the way.

This is a great site no doubt with a plethora of vast knowledge but i do have a few questions i could use help with.

1. Dies - which type. Sounds like Redding "S" type are a good choice, but what is the difference between the "S" type standard, "Match", and "Competition" - is it the micrometer adjusters, or machining accuracy, or the seating die length (longer on "competition"?).

2. Cleaning: I've read a few articles on this, plan to get a Lucas bore guide, but not sure which cleaning rod to get. In the past I've used Dewey rods - but never like the bearings in the handle as they "stick", I understand SS can damage the barrel so stay away, there is some mention of carbon rods but I though carbon can be abrasive (if fibers get exposed). Could someone point me the right way wrt to what works well with the Lucas bore guides or any other considerations.
https://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid...__LLC___Barrel_Break_In___Cleaning_Procedures


3. Rings and Base for weaver T-36. I do plan to shoot 600yd and will certainly at some time 1000yd, so think i need -20MOA base. I like the idea of the "pictany" style base. Any insight on specific bases / rings to consider in this would be helpful.

4. Reference to having the bolt bushed. I'm not quite sure what this refers to - are there any articles that talk about this.


Thx for the help,

Paul

 

[dkhunt14]

The competition dies have a Micrometer seater. I feel the best die is the full length S die. I like an arbor press and Wilson dies with Micrometer top for seating. The other option is a custom die like Whidden.

I think almost any of the rods are ok with careful cleaning. I like Bore Tech (they have good bearings) and the Tipton.

You should get a 20 minute base for long range shooting. I like the Davidson type base over the Picatinney. Mainly because I use the Kelby high rings. Lighter weight and good quality. In a 6BR the recoil is not substantial. I even use them on 300 WSM and never had a scope move.

The bolt bushing is where they take and make the hole in the bolt smaller and tighter fit so you don't get primer cratering. Some guns don't need it and some do.

Matt

 

[Linko]

Hi - well after years of lurking around this site i have a Savage 12 F-class in 6mmBR on the way.

This is a great site no doubt with a plethora of vast knowledge but i do have a few questions i could use help with.

1. Dies - which type. Sounds like Redding "S" type are a good choice, but what is the difference between the "S" type standard, "Match", and "Competition" - is it the micrometer adjusters, or machining accuracy, or the seating die length (longer on "competition"?).

2. Cleaning: I've read a few articles on this, plan to get a Lucas bore guide, but not sure which cleaning rod to get. In the past I've used Dewey rods - but never like the bearings in the handle as they "stick", I understand SS can damage the barrel so stay away, there is some mention of carbon rods but I though carbon can be abrasive (if fibers get exposed). Could someone point me the right way wrt to what works well with the Lucas bore guides or any other considerations.
https://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid...__LLC___Barrel_Break_In___Cleaning_Procedures


3. Rings and Base for weaver T-36. I do plan to shoot 600yd and will certainly at some time 1000yd, so think i need -20MOA base. I like the idea of the "pictany" style base. Any insight on specific bases / rings to consider in this would be helpful.

4. Reference to having the bolt bushed. I'm not quite sure what this refers to - are there any articles that talk about this.


Thx for the help,

Paul

Hi, welcome to the forum. Also welcome to Savage. I have been shooting a Savage Target F TR in .223 for a year.

I also just purchased a Savage F Class in 6BR. I have about 40 shot thru it so far.

As for equipment. Dies, I have several brands for the 223 and thought Forster was great until I ordered a of Whidden dies for the 6BR. Whow, are they well madew. the sizing die is like a mirroe inside and the seating die a has markings that leave nothing to desire. Very well made dies. There are some "hand made" die makes out there but I havent tried them, Harrells comes to mind. No matter which die you buy make sure you buy Whiddens case gauge,. makes measuring shoulder det back simple. Also very well made.

Cleaning rod and guide. I have Lucas guides and use a carbon rod, forgot the brand. (they have blue labels on their products like foam cleaning spray)

scope mout and rings. I have Ken Farrel on both my guns. very nice. Stay in touch and let me know how your loading goes. I am just started loading this rifle. caliber.hope this helps

 

[Sniper338]

I can't answer exactly... but I use Redding type S full length bushing sizer dies, and a wilson arbor press/hand die for seating. This combo has worked great for me. I am thinking about getting a widden sizer die for a 6BR I am building right now.

I've never had a problem with a dewey rod. I have one in each size to clean all calibers. Had them for years and don't have a fray on them yet. They are not abused, so they have lasted me very well.

a 20MOA base is the smallest I have on any rifle I own. I will do another 20MOA on this 6BR build I am doing now. Pic a good brand and run with it.

If I am understanding correctly you are talking about getting a bushing in the firing pin assembly. This refers to the depth to which the firing pin protrudes out of the bolt face. Some peoples firing pin with fired comes out too far in their bolt and craders the primer too much or TOO deep. You will not know if that is necessary until you start shooting and watching the primers on your fired brass... If the firing pin hits the primer too deep, well there you go, thats your fix.. if you don't have problems, no reason to even mess with it imo. I haven't had a bolt yet that needs bushed..

 

[M-61]

Quote from Sniper338:
..."If I am understanding correctly you are talking about getting a bushing in the firing pin assembly. This refers to the depth to which the firing pin protrudes out of the bolt face. Some peoples firing pin with fired comes out too far in their bolt and craders the primer too much or TOO deep.".....

This is usually referring to the diameter of the firing pin 'hole' in relationship to the diameter of the actual firing pin. In some bolts the hole size is too large thus causing primer cratering, etc. The hole is bushed down to a more acceptable diameter. In my experience with Savage's this has not been a problem, however each rifle is different.

 

[Oldschool1]

Thanks all for the great info. I'll have to think on these for some time to come to conclusion. But you've given me a initial direction and a few things to think about.

Widden dies are enticing and i did look up the cartridge gauge -i think i have to have one of those.

Farrell Ring design i do like much - as it has a stress ring before the actual scope ring so this it doesn't deform the scope ring when tightened. I may think on steel rings vs aluminum for a bit.

Bushed bolt - thanks for that insight - i don't think i'll mess with it, but i will measure pin wobble when through hole- go from there.

I think the rifle was the most inexpensive part This is going to be fun!

More later - thx.

Paul

 

[HTSmith]

I use the Burris Signature rings with the inserts on most all my rifles and I've been well pleased. It allows you to skip all the lapping and bedding work and won't damage your expensive scope. I used the off-set inserts to get enough elevation to shoot at 1000 yards with my 6br--no problem. So you won't need the 20 minute base either, though if you shoot at long range exclusively you may want one. Just my $.02