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6mm BRDX chamber cutting

After reading the article on 6mm BRDX I'm going to need one.." The bug has bitten me good" so does anybody know a good smith for this. Or will I most likely need to buy the chamber and a die reamer then send it to a smith of my choice?..
It is a little more then I need because my clubs longest range is 300 yards..
How does BRDX perform at 300yds ?..am I better off with a tight neck BR.. I do like to be a little different then everyone else and enjoy messing around at my reloading bench for long periods.. So neck turning isn't an issue for me
Thanks for any input
 
At 300, probably not needed, but that has never stopped me before.... :o

Whidden had reloading dies, as long as you don`t mind necking up/setting false shoulder and fire forming, you should have a blast with a really neat case to boot....

Just me but I`d have a reamer ground to my specs. rather than trying to find one.


Have fun.

Phil.
 
phil said:
At 300, probably not needed, but that has never stopped me before.... :o

Whidden had reloading dies, as long as you don`t mind necking up/setting false shoulder and fire forming, you should have a blast with a really neat case to boot....

Just me but I`d have a reamer ground to my specs. rather than trying to find one.


Have fun.

Phil.
Neck up and set up a false shoulder on the BRDX :o
 
so its best to create the false shoulder to properly fire form the BRDX..can you just jam the bullet in the lands and fire?
 
The BRDX seems like a fantastic development. It has caught my eye. Yet for the added investment for tooling seems like it could be more then I'm willing to spend. So perhaps it might be best for me to stick with a tight neck 6mm Norma BR until I get comfortable with the characteristics of such a cartridge. This will be my first 6mm rifle.
 
bobcat93 said:
The BRDX seems like a fantastic development. It has caught my eye. Yet for the added investment for tooling seems like it could be more then I'm willing to spend. So perhaps it might be best for me to stick with a tight neck 6mm Norma BR until I get comfortable with the characteristics of such a cartridge. This will be my first 6mm rifle.

You will NOT need any more tooling than that of a regular 6mmBR.. The BR-DX does NOT need a false shoulder like a BRX or Dasher.. You are only moving the shoulder forward 0.039"... You will only need to jam a bullet into the lands and fireform.. It is ALMOST like a 6mmBR A.I. Just order a reamer with a .271 neck and .135freebore (for Hybrids and 108 Bergers) >>> Both have substantial bearing surfaces.. However, in MY opinion, you need to anneal NEW BRASS in prep for fireforming>>> you will lose either ZERO or at the most 1 piece of brass..
 
The BRDX is no different to fire form than the Dasher or BRX. I would suggest the false shoulder method and jamming bullets in .030, but just jamming bullets will work.

I would not go over .115 on the free bore for any of the 105 bullets.

For 300 yards I would just use a straight 6br and if you really want to go to the improved just do a dasher.

Good Luck,
 
Seems to me everybody in benchrest is shooting .135 to .155 freebore with the 105 bullets. I shoot .155 in all my Dashers and it works good. I wouldn't think a BRDX would take anything different. When you keep the bullet seated out in the case you can get more velocity with less pressure. Lets you get to higher node. If I was going to shoot only 300 yards or so I would just do a straight 6 BR. No fireforming and the barrel will last a lot longer. Matt
 
We have a 100,200, and 300 yard groundhog shoot and the 6 ppc does the best with the 30br second, also I would say the 6 br is a close second to the 30 br. If you are only going to have one gun I think a 8 twist 6br would be good choice.
Drags
 
ShootDots said:
bobcat93 said:
The BRDX seems like a fantastic development. It has caught my eye. Yet for the added investment for tooling seems like it could be more then I'm willing to spend. So perhaps it might be best for me to stick with a tight neck 6mm Norma BR until I get comfortable with the characteristics of such a cartridge. This will be my first 6mm rifle.

You will NOT need any more tooling than that of a regular 6mmBR.. The BR-DX does NOT need a false shoulder like a BRX or Dasher.. You are only moving the shoulder forward 0.039"... You will only need to jam a bullet into the lands and fireform.. It is ALMOST like a 6mmBR A.I. Just order a reamer with a .271 neck and .135freebore (for Hybrids and 108 Bergers) >>> Both have substantial bearing surfaces.. However, in MY opinion, you need to anneal NEW BRASS in prep for fireforming>>> you will lose either ZERO or at the most 1 piece of brass..

Ben, AI cartridges headspace on the parent case. Therefore there is no need for false shoulder. The BRDX is not like an AI cartridge because the shoulder has to be pushed out.

I would try jamming bullets, but the fool proof way is to create false shoulder.
 
I fire formed mine the way Doug Paschall (the designer of the BRDX) suggested. To each his own, but the simple fire forming method, without creating a false shoulder, produces the same outcome as does the false shoulder method. One less procedure to mess with, and perfectly formed brass.
 
I agree Erik,that it is NOT an A.I. >> but it is close and the OP did not want to spend too much time and $$$'s to "make" a BR-DX case... He can easily do it with the Jam Method... It is NOT the best, but VERY doable...
 
Can I get some barrel info???
6BR chamber
8 twist Krieger #17 is what I want to use
What about Barrel length: 26-28"??????....for 300 yrd.
Also is the 8 twist good for 95 gr. Bullets
 
Hi bobcat, I would use a 8 twist 6br with a 28" barrel in a heavy varmint contour. For the 300 yd. distance the 105's would probably shoot as good as the 95 gr. bullets so I would try the 105's first, also you can try the 80 gr. bergers for 300 yds. My reasoning is that in case you decide to shoot longer distances and only use one gun the 8 twist 6 br would be good, if you are going to have more than one gun I would use a 6ppc for 300 yds.
drags
 
Yes an 8 twist will shoot 95 grain bullets well. For bad conditions at long range the 105 or heavy bullets should do better. I Like the longer barrel because you can cutoff and rechamber. I would go with the 28. Matt
 

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