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6BRX 200 line problems

Had a chamber that was sticking. My reamer had a glitch somewhere. It left a shiny spot on cartridges fired in two different chambers. Had smith polish the chamber a bit at that point and wa la, problem solved. Maybe you just need a polishing.
As crude as it may sound to some, polishing is the way to get a precise size to a machined part. Absolutely nothing wrong with polishing something to size.
 
You don't actually want a "polish" as in shiny in your chamber. You want a fine crosshatch not unlike an engine cylinder-- a nice matte finish. A mirror polished chamber is one that is more likely to gall and stick. Especially if you're shooting a stainless barrel. The crosshatch will hold a tiny bit of carbon and help ensure you get smooth case release.

I solved a chamber issue using a Flex Hone brush and it made me a huge fan of the product. It just works. My chamber was so bad that not only was there extraction issues but the brass was coming out with a stippled pattern on it and it was contributing to stuck cases.

A flex hone for the chamber solved all this. I bought the .243 brush because it would be small enough for 308, 7-08, 6.5cm etc and not do anything to the neck really. I don't think they offer one for the BR family of cases, but you can get a diameter close enough to what you want because you are really just targeting the body area of the chamber and not neck or shoulder.

The flex hones cut slowly enough that you can easily control the degree of honing (especially with the 800grit I bought) so you won't have to worry about going too far.

12mm size is .0472" and should work perfectly for massaging the body area of the chamber. Get an aluminum oxide abrasive in 600gr or 800gr and you'll have this solved easily.

 
I had a similar problem with my 6.5x47, and ended up using a small base .308 body die to reduce the diameter at the .200 line (did not touch the shoulder with this die). Subsequently I sent 3 fired cases to Harrell's and explained that I need a die which size the .200 line to .4690.
Another option might be a ring die.
 
You don't actually want a "polish" as in shiny in your chamber. You want a fine crosshatch not unlike an engine cylinder-- a nice matte finish. A mirror polished chamber is one that is more likely to gall and stick. Especially if you're shooting a stainless barrel. The crosshatch will hold a tiny bit of carbon and help ensure you get smooth case release.

I solved a chamber issue using a Flex Hone brush and it made me a huge fan of the product. It just works. My chamber was so bad that not only was there extraction issues but the brass was coming out with a stippled pattern on it and it was contributing to stuck cases.

A flex hone for the chamber solved all this. I bought the .243 brush because it would be small enough for 308, 7-08, 6.5cm etc and not do anything to the neck really. I don't think they offer one for the BR family of cases, but you can get a diameter close enough to what you want because you are really just targeting the body area of the chamber and not neck or shoulder.

The flex hones cut slowly enough that you can easily control the degree of honing (especially with the 800grit I bought) so you won't have to worry about going too far.

12mm size is .0472" and should work perfectly for massaging the body area of the chamber. Get an aluminum oxide abrasive in 600gr or 800gr and you'll have this solved easily.

I agree with you. I use them as well, for a final finish of the chamber. I typically hit it lightly with 320 on a dowel and then the hone. And you're right about not wanting a super smooth finish. Like you, I just put a nice crosshatch in it and stop.
 
What is the optimum sizing of the 200 line? To stop these clickers
And who is best to get a FL bushing die made from?

My Wilson F/L bushing die is pushing the 200 line back @ .4695 if that helps any at all.
Your Chamber may be slightly different so my numbers wont help you much but I find that an extra .001 helps a lot without a downside. I think Wilson makes an outstanding product with excellent customer service.
 
Your Chamber may be slightly different so my numbers wont help you much but I find that an extra .001 helps a lot without a downside. I think Wilson makes an outstanding product with excellent customer service.
Yeah the “optimum” only exists for one particular combination of chamber and brass. Theoretically you only need enough sizing to reliably chamber and extract your brass at its hardest in your particular chamber.

a Redding body die for .308 can be a great all purpose problem solver, and they offer it in regular and “small base”. Two separate versions with slightly more sizing in the small base.

I find in .223 that the Redding regular (non small base) body die sizes the lower body (near .200) about half a thousandth more than my Forster FL sizer. Probaby moot in .223 as it’s unlikely to give clickers anyway.
 
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Yeah the “optimum” only exists for one particular combination of chamber and brass. Theoretically you only need enough sizing to reliably chamber and extract your brass at its hardest in your particular chamber.

a Redding body die for .308 can be a great all purpose problem solver, and they offer it in regular and “small base”. Two separate versions with slightly more sizing in the small base.

I find in .223 that the Redding regular (non small base) sizes the lower body (near .200) about half a thousandth more than my Forster FL sizer. Probaby moot in .223 as it’s unlikely to give clickers anyway.
Ya gotta admit that a 308 bolt face bottle neck cartridge is pretty basic math.
How many reamers start with .471x at the .200
 
Sorry Mike' I didn't clarify that very well. I was just thinking how many 308 bolt face cases come out of the chamber around .4705 by the digital caliper so if im only getting sized to .469 + whatever ten thousand to me that's pretty tight and leads me to clickers whereas the extra .001 of sizing to .4685 sure helps me get rounds down range.

Again my apologies for a Senior moment.
 
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I had a similar problem with my 6.5x47, and ended up using a small base .308 body die to reduce the diameter at the .200 line (did not touch the shoulder with this die). Subsequently I sent 3 fired cases to Harrell's and explained that I need a die which size the .200 line to .4690.
Another option might be a ring die.
Hopefully that will work although you may experience clickers, older brass develop some memory and may resist sizing.
 
My whidden die was ment to be a custom all those years ago when I got when I was using the Dave kiff reamer.. I'm thinking it wasn't now..
Will check out Harrels. I used to use a 6BRA die of theirs once, will check out if the do a 6BRX
The die I'm using now is a Wilson one
So what's with the 3.0 and 3.5?
Cheers
The difference between the 3.0 and 3.5 is more shoulder bump. Taking some off the shell holder so the case goes in further will result in more shoulder bump. I don't think this is going to solve your problem. The best die maker out there that will make a die that truly works is Neil Jones custom. I think what started your whole problem was improper fireform of your cases. Neils die is micrometer adjustable for shoulder bump and sizes the case all the way. Not cheap but his dies work.
 
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The real problem is that the FL die he is using doesn't match up with his actual finished chamber. A small base 6 BR body die will not work as it will push down the shoulder on a BRX before getting to the .200 line.
However, a small base 308 body die will work provided he uses it every time after he uses it the first time then FL resize the rest of his brass with the die he has.

The other way is, since he has his own reamer, he can send 3 fired cases to Harrell's and note that he wants the .200 line to be sized down to .001 clearance on a resized case.

The other scenario is have his gunsmith hone the back end of the chamber about a .001 so the die he has will start to work for him.

Just my .02¢ worth.

DJ

DJ's Brass Service
205-461-4680
 
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OK need some help with some figures
I used to shoot a Dave Kiff 6BRX reamer and found I was getting clickers after awhile so I got my own reamer build as my FL bushing dies didn't size the 200 line.. even sent reamer specs and they sent a die to me to use.
I then went and got my own reamer made and went from the .470 200 line spec from the Dave Kiff reamer to a .4714 reamer spec after looking at reamer specs from 6BRA, 6BR and dashers specs to help with sizing the 200 line .
Now I'm using a Forster co-ax press and I'm FL/bumping my cases 002-0025 from fired brass
My 200 line is on fired brass is 0.4713, 0.4712 and sized it is 0.4708, 0.4709 so it's only getting sized 0.0005 .
What is the optimum sizing of the 200 line? To stop these clickers
And who is best to get a FL bushing die made from?
The die I have brought a few months ago (to try another brand to see if it would help) is great and I shot my best ever 500m/547y group with it of 0.579" but the clickers are worse than my whidden die I was using .
Any help would be great
Cheers
Pethy
.4713”-.4714” is the perfect size for .2” line IMO, I wouldn’t go any bigger, should work with 99.9% of off the shelf dies., .0005” to .001” sizing at the .2” is all you need, if your getting a true .0005” sizing you shouldn’t be getting clickers IME.. Try a press that uses shell holders before you get twisted round the axle anymore…:)

Edit- How many firings you got on your brass? If your still on board with the East Coast 30+ it might be time to try some new brass !
 
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