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Shooting F-Class. With the 28" barrel, still have 1.8# to stay under weight. assuming 1.25" straightLonger barrels whip more and weigh alot more. I guess it matters what discipline you shoot it in
Weight should not be an issue. Currently have 1.8# to make up with the extra barrel length. Whip I may have to look into, bit seems most f class shooters are running a 30" or more. Using a 1.25" straightAre you expecting more velocity out of the 31”? Even if that happens, I would be concerned about the weight and whip trade off. You might check Lilja’s article regarding barrel stability versus diameter and length.
I have been shooting both 7.0 & 7.5 twist straight barrels. Hard to see any difference on paper as there are too many variables to measure the results on paper at 500 yds.I've gone to 7.5" on all my 6mm's for more versitility with different bullets. Barrel whip just isn't an issue to worry about with F Class rifles. Length is an wasy way to add weight and a little speed. Go for it.
Like your reason dmoran. Had this on my mind for a couple of years. Found a Krieger barrel I had that is 1.350 for 6" tapered to 1.1" at 31" with a 8 twist. Will use a BAT M action for semi-heavy gun, free bore will be .104 for the short custom bullets. Is the rumor true short bullets for short benchrest shooters in long range 600 and 1000 yard (LOL)@Rset
31" 6Dasher barrels is what I use and prefer. Reason being, can hit the upper nodes with a little less powder, hence pressure. That is the reason why I went from 28" to 31" barrels many years ago now. Typically around 1/2-grain less powder to hit the same speeds that 28" barrels achieve.
Going to a 7.5-twist will yield more bullet stability for the heavier/longer bullets.
Just my 2-Cents...
My reasoning as well on the length. Thank you for the reply.@Rset
31" 6Dasher barrels is what I use and prefer. Reason being, can hit the upper nodes with a little less powder, hence pressure. That is the reason why I went from 28" to 31" barrels many years ago now. Typically around 1/2-grain less powder to hit the same speeds that 28" barrels achieve.
Going to a 7.5-twist will yield more bullet stability for the heavier/longer bullets.
Just my 2-Cents...
Give your smith the freedom to cut off as much as they deem necessary from the muzzle end.
Actually it's easier to lengthen the throats/free-bore via way of a throating reamer (very commonly used).Can always have length removed. Part of the reason I thought about going longer in the first place. Thank you for the input. If it doesn't feel/shoot right, I will make adjustments.
The 105 hybrids do better with a longer free- bore. I shot a .135 free-bore on a Dasher at the G.B.A. 600 yard Nationals to set a heavy gun single target group record of 0.715" for 5 shots. This was shot with a 16.5 pound light gun and 28" barrel. Using 105 Hybrids that measure close to the new 109 Hybrids, powder used was RL 15. When I spoke of the 1.350" barrel for 6" tapered to 1.1" finished at 31" was to add weight to center of stock. The taper is to reduce the whip from a longer barrel. Will be using a MB Action that weights 38.5 oz's for more weight in center of stock for 10 shot groups. The size of barrel should keep heat lower than a H.V. to help on group size. If the gun is muzzle heavy I can add 2 pounds of lead to MBR stock with no problem for a weight of 22 to 23 pounds total on gun with scope. The 10 shots is for benchrest 1000 yard and 5 shots for 600 yard.The free-bore will be .104 for the shorter custom bullets and Like Donovan spoke of I can lengthen free-bore to .135 for Hybrids if the short bullets don't work. "MISSISSIPPI"Now that we have some input on length and twist. Let me ask about free bore.
Shooting 105 Hybrids now in a barrel that I have no idea what reamer was used and shoots great.
Assuming I stay with the 105 or possibly the new 109, what free bore would you suggest?