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6 dasher fire-forming, false shoulder, step by step

I need to give back to the site... everyone here has been incredibly helpful so I figured I would post a detailed step by step on false shouldering for the 6 dasher fireforming newbies (like me). It's intimidating if you have never done it.

Specs:
26 inch bartlein barrel
1.555 chamber
272 no-turn neck
104 freebore
Defiance Deviant action

Start with Lapua blue box 6BR norma brass

Steps
1) Size up the neck: I used a 21st century expander mandrel die with the 264 expander mandrel
264 expander mandrel bought from Sinclair (not the turning mandrel FYI which is 0.001 different). Used imperial sizing wax, don't just use dry neck lube that stuff sucks.

2) Next make the false shoulder: Forster full length sizing 6mm Dasher die WITH DECAPPING ASSEMBLY REMOVED. This will require quite a few back and forth trials with your rifle. What I ended up doing was looking for the point where I had a decent amount of resistance the ENTIRE time when you close the bolt, and it should get harder right at the end. Dmoran calls this a "full crush"
Important to note when you remove the decapping assembly (not everyone does this), the neck size will be super tight (.253"), so I ended up re-expanding with a 243 sinclair mandrel (note .2675 is what 6BR brass comes as out of the box in my lot #). ALSO MUSHROOMING is NORMAL after making the false shoulder (see brass on right). Note, re-expanding with a 243 mandrel makes the mushroom go away (see brass on left)
IMG_4153.jpg


For me, I ended up making the false shoulder, then re-expand w/ the 243 mandrel until I achieved the full crush. It should take a decent amount of force to close, I would say 30-40% more effort to close the bolt on a regular basis. Also I wiped off all the sizing wax everytime I chambered the rifle.
There are threads on this forum about making sure the chamber is oil free/dry to reach optimal blow length (more on this below).

3) Next step, double check your work with an actual projectile... I would highly recommend this before you load 250 rounds to fire form. I'm glad I did this b/c when I seated the bullet with a forster micrometer seater die in 6 dasher, it was VERY hard to close the bolt (75% more effort then normally trying to close a bolt). So the false shoulder expanded every so slightly from 0.2880 to 0.2885-0.2890 after seating a bullet. So I had turn in the Forster FLS die I used to make the false shoulder a hair clockwise, re-expanded with 243 mandrel, seated the bullet and voila! Back to 30-40% more effort with a full crush to close the bolt when the projectile was seated... (this was all along with the pin pulled and ejector removed, but extractor intact).
IMG_4149.jpg


I seated 0.020" into the lands for good measure, Varget 30gr w/ a hornady 105 amax (lots of combos out there; but, this one appears to be a "standard" powder charge) results in 1.532-1.536 blow lengths, most being 1.532-1.534... I tried cleaning the bore & chamber every 5 rounds, 20 rounds, and 50 rounds and degreased it with rubbing alcohol at the end; but, this made absolutely no difference in my blow lengths. However, I am of the school of thought that it doesn't really matter for accuracy (see my results).

Right is a virgin 6BR brass, middle is a perfect blown out 6 dasher brass, left is what you will see every once in awhile. I had 4 of these split necks in the 300 rounds I fire-formed.

IMG_4314.jpg



I got around to doing load development (finally) on this 1 x fired brass, with just a light inside and out chamfer after I sized with a whidden FLS bushing die 267 RCBS nitride bushing w/ the expander ball in.

Load is with Varget and Berger 105 hybrids. This is with 250 fire formed rounds on the barrel.

Top row is the OCW 32.3, 32.6,32.9, 33.0, 33.2 (seated 0.015 off lands), and 32.6 (seated 0.020 off lands which was a go to load from well known precision tactical shooters).

32.6 gr of Varget = 2978 fps (on average) SD 4.2
33.0 gr of Varget = 3006 fps (on average) SD 5.4

NO PRESSURE SIGNS AT ALL! 3 round groups. Shot off the bench... pretty much all loads though were 1/2 MOA or less which was insane.
I'm going with 33.0 gr based on not only group size, gunsmith who chambered this that's his load too with this reamer, and it happened to be within the middle of the node ( i know it's not so obvious in this picture)
IMG_4306.jpg
IMG_4309.jpg
IMG_4308.jpg

32f038e1-b5cf-4366-a1a4-98a7340bf46e.jpg


In summary, false shouldering isn't that much more time, it yielded good results, it is intimidating at first; but, it's worth the effort.... "just do it". Blow length wasn't great for me; but, oh well, still darn accurate. I absolutely LOVE THE 6 Dasher, and you will too!!!
 
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What caused the split necks/shoulder on the fire form cases?

Did you Forster micrometer seating die make a popping sound when you where taking the round out of the die?
 
What caused the split necks/shoulder on the fire form cases?

Did you Forster micrometer seating die make a popping sound when you where taking the round out of the die?
The splits are a factory defect in the brass. Usually 2-3 per 100. They can be culled out if you carefully look for a crease or roll on the shoulder. Should be pics floating around somewhere what to look for. Lapua will replace defective ones if you contact.
 
What caused the split necks/shoulder on the fire form cases?

Did you Forster micrometer seating die make a popping sound when you where taking the round out of the die?
Yep what ridgeway said... my Forster micro seater totally makes the popping sound. I saw there's an easy fix for it.
I'll have to do it one of these days

Dang I wish I would have know that lapua will replace them... I had 5 I found. I missed the 4 that split.
 
Yep what ridgeway said... my Forster micro seater totally makes the popping sound. I saw there's an easy fix for it.
I'll have to do it one of these days

Dang I wish I would have know that lapua will replace them... I had 5 I found. I missed the 4 that split.


What was the fix? I haven't had one split yet, I'm new to the Dasher but loving it.
 
I use a slightly different technique to create the false shoulder. After expanding the neck, I use a 6mm BR redding neck sizing die to partially size the neck down.
To get the false shoulder to form exactly where it should be for my chamber, I insert the empty case in the chamber and close the bolt. Extract the case and proceed with rest of the steps.

Its an extra step but there is no trial and error involved.
 
What was the fix you guys did to your dies? I have a whidden die that pops as well and i believe its from to much lube
 
What was the fix you guys did to your dies? I have a whidden die that pops as well and i believe its from to much lube

If its a die with the sliding sleeve the popping is your bullet coming out of the seating plug. Your bullet ogive is only contacting in a very small area and its jamming in there. Two reasons for this: your neck tension is too much or crunching powder, or your seater plug has a sharp edge digging into the bullet. Either case your deforming your bullet (very slightly) and the pop is actually pulling the bullet out inconsistently (if your neck tension isnt extreme- if it is see #1). You can lap/polish the plug with a bullet chucked in a drill and itll fit better and not pop anymore
 
Thank you for the step by step, very informative. Now I think I need a Dasher! Oh yeah, from the looks of the groups, is the Dasher boring? (jk) Great shooting rifle!
Jonathan
 
Mushrooming is not normal when making a false shoulder and not sure how you are getting that?… Just leave the expander mandrel and ball in the FL die, no need to remove it and re-expand later. Expanding with .257 caliber mandrel to make the false shoulder is better too. Don’t need to go as far as 6.5mm. You can avoid spilt necks by annealing after forming the false shoulder. Yes Lapua brass is annealed at the factory, but you should still anneal to ensure the brass has proper elasticity during the process.

But I would recommend buying Alpha 6 Dasher brass so there’s no need for any of this
 
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I prefer a hard jam over the false shoulder, or cow. False shoulder method cases come out shorter than the other 2 methods and its more time comsuming. I just load them and Fire form on gophers. No wasted components and happy birds.
That’s all I do now as well but didn’t want anyone throwing a fit about safety ;) Knock on wood, but I’ve never had an issue forming brass on any wildcats with Dasher type improved shoulders by jamming the bullets and firing away. Always very accurate during the forming process as well. Actually had one wildcat that I later struggled hard in load testing to match the accuracy of initial forming rounds.
 

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