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Test 11.5, 12, 12.5.Started 1 full revolution out on the EC tuner - 25 Hashmarks for full revolution. All 3 shots except at #5. Leaning to #11. Am I missing anything? 100 yards, 75 degrees temp.
On the surface it appears seating depth is not quite happy. But as bugman said initial break-in probably should be done without turning the tuner.Started 1 full revolution out on the EC tuner - 25 Hashmarks for full revolution. All 3 shots except at #5. Leaning to #11. Am I missing anything? 100 yards, 75 degrees temp.
That's right. Any tuner can only give you the potential of a load in your gun. If it's potential is .5, it'll give you .5. If it's in the zero's it'll give you zero's. Just no way to know the load's potential unless you test it to establish that. I do that with the tuner on. I just don't touch it until I'm done with the load aspect.I assume you did your load development with the tuner at 0? If so you started messing with the tuner too soon. Most of the time you should get a tune that you cant improve with a tuner before you even touch it.
Wrong on the tuner and perhaps Jack did not word it how he meant it. The Tuner should be installed, I start 3 revolutions out. I regard that as neutral. Develope a load to the nest of your ability. Now go both doirections on your tuner to see if you can make it better. If your alreadyngetting back to back three shot groups roght around .100, leave it alone. As shots progress over time and your groups open up a bump or 2 in or out will tell you which way to turn and probably already have you back in tune. This comes from having tuners on about 20 different barrels over about 15 or so years. If you want to use the tuner to find a load you should come up with a process of load develop that works for you. It makes no sense to me to developer a load then hang weight on the barrel, you just took your load away, wasted rounds. Theynuse to laugh when I showed up with a tuner, now they pretty much all have them,lol.7.5 twists primarily like longer bearing surface bullets.....consider that, and do the initial break-in and load development without the tuner.
What I meant to say and should have was without "turning the tuner." I don't believe it hampers the tune to have it installed while testing the load quality.On the surface it appears seating depth is not quite happy. But as bugman said initial break-in probably should be done without the tuner.
You touched on my question of a starting point, how do you know 3 revolutions is a neutral position ?Wrong on the tuner and perhaps Jack did not word it how he meant it. The Tuner should be installed, I start 3 revolutions out. I regard that as neutral. Develope a load to the nest of your ability. Now go both doirections on your tuner to see if you can make it better. If your alreadyngetting back to back three shot groups roght around .100, leave it alone. As shots progress over time and your groups open up a bump or 2 in or out will tell you which way to turn and probably already have you back in tune. This comes from having tuners on about 20 different barrels over about 15 or so years. If you want to use the tuner to find a load you should come up with a process of load develop that works for you. It makes no sense to me to developer a load then hang weight on the barrel, you just took your load away, wasted rounds. Theynuse to laugh when I showed up with a tuner, now they pretty much all have them,lol.
The builder told me to start at 1. It was not real responsive. Next barrel I started at 3. It worked great so,I stayed at 3 as the start. I talked to my tuner maker and he changed from the 1 out. He quit advertising tuners, said he got frustrated guys wanted to use them to make the load.You touched on my question of a starting point, how do you know 3 revolutions is a neutral position ?
I just don’t get the intial load development with the thing screwed on at some arbitrary place that may be way out of tune and attempting to tune the rifle with seating depth and the tuner in some random placeI think 3 is not an absolute, it just has worked for me. Doing load development with it off the gun makes no sense to me. If you consider each bump out of 360 degrees, my bumps are 7.5 degrees each.
I’d be concerned or maybe that’s not the right word, rather wondering if I wasn’t starting in an anti node. How do I avoid that scenario?I think 3 is not an absolute, it just has worked for me. Doing load development with it off the gun makes no sense to me. If you consider each bump out of 360 degrees, my bumps are 7.5 degrees each.
Tim, think about it. The "TUNE" does not have a mind. Your gun if it has a tuner hanging on it or is just a bare barrel could be close, or not to a good harmonic node. Its just a starting point. Now if you develope a load and then hang 4 to 6 oz of weight out there you can probably be assured you just threw that load development out the window. So develope your load first with the uner on it. More often than not, probably 80 to 90 percent of the time at that point the tuner will not make it shoot tighter. But when it starts to loose it's tune, and I have enough experience to know when that occurs, normally in a dozen shots or less, its back to bugholes. Big problem as I see it, most people never developer a process to tune that works for them. I see post after post guys shoot 200 rounds or more still shooting 2 and ones. That's the problem.I just don’t get the intial load development with the thing screwed on at some arbitrary place that may be way out of tune and attempting to tune the rifle with seating depth and the tuner in some random place
To each there own for sure
Your thinking too much. Its not hard, don't make it hard.I’d be concerned or maybe that’s not the right word, rather wondering if I wasn’t starting in an anti node. How do I avoid that scenario?