6.5x284 in Quadlock

[257Roberts]

I am working in a new to me Quadlock, currently in 6.5x284 with unknown barrel life. I have 2 new 6.5mm 7.5 twist barrels waiting for it. Trying to determine seating depth for the new barrels.

This will be a dedicated prone sling gun, and the Quadlock is set up for a true 2.8-2.84" short action. This current unknown barrel soft seats a 147gr ELDM at 3.116", OAL and of course wont eject a live round out the loading port.

I am concerned about a "cease fire" during a match. Only way to clear the action is to remove the cheekpiece and pull the bolt.

Thoughts, opinions? I'd like to stay 6.5x284, but the 147gr ELDM is seated about max depth at 2.85". Have some 150gr SMK on order and theres the good ole 142gr SMK out there.

Thanks for any suggestions. Experienced shooter and reloader, but newbie to this round and action.

 

[Walt Krafft]

I gave up using short actions for the 6.5-284 for that reason. Best suggestion is to go 6.5 creed or 260 with that action.

 

[FatBoy]

6.5x47L. I have several of each. The 47L doesn't give up that much to the x284. I get 2840fps with a 140SMK in a 26" w/H4350. Could go a touch more powder and go 30" and be knocking at 2900 but it shoots so good at 2840 I won't touch it . I run my x284s at 2950-3000, so talking maybe an inch or so wind at 1k.

I still have two short action x284s. I had quick detach cheek pieces added so I can easily pull the bolt.

 

[SBS]

Get a little creative about making just enough clearance on the forward edge of the cheekpiece. I have the same action/caliber on a McM prone stock and made it work without losing cheek support.

 

[257Roberts]

Mine is either a Robertson or Masterclass prone style stock. It already has a cheekpice relief cut. I've discovered I can get to 2.900" OAL and still get a live round out, by releasing the bolt and the bolt bumping the cheekpiece. I can then fish out the round of the action with a wire hook.

How hard is it to grind out more bolt relief into a composite stock?

 

[SBS]

(quote) How hard is it to grind out more bolt relief into a composite stock?

A Dremel makes it easy, particularly with a structured tooth carbide burr. Mine is a half moon cutout (viewed from above) in the center of the forward part of the c/p to allow the bolt enough rearward movement.

 

[D.Stone]

There are also cheek pieces out there that are easily removable. I think Warner Tool Company comes to mind. I think it's held on with magnets.

Most guys that I know with Quadlocks have the cheek piece cut so that they can remove the bolt completely.

 

[Recko555]

I have a Quadlock for my palma rifle and I use a magnetic removable cheek piece from the McGee's. Super fast and easy.

 

[McStocks]

I invented the removable cheekpiece with the magnet after we shot in Australia, and you had to remove the bolt before entering or leaving the firing line!
Steve McGee

 

[McStocks]

http://mcgeestocks.com/hardware.html

 

[257Roberts]

Here is an image of my cutout. Was considering grinding back another ~0.100" bolt depth, so on a manual bolt release, I could fish out a 3.000" OAL 6.5x284.

Didnt know if there were any dos or donts for grinding composite?

I have a dremel, can easily find a bit that will grind. Do I need to "refinish" compisite after the grinding?

 

[257Roberts]

Here is clearance with the bolt on the internal stop. Its okay here for normal function, ejecting spend brass.

By manually releasing the bolt, and the back of the bolt bumping the cutout, I can currently go to about 2.900" OAL and still fish out a live round.

Just thinking 2.900" seems pretty short for a 6.5x284, and was wondering if 3.000" or longer makes more sense?

 

[SBS]

I have 7/32" clearance between the back of the bolt and c/p when pulled back against the bolt stop. By slightly grooving the top center of the c/p behind the cut-out, I can pull the bolt out & up when c/p is lowered. I seldom need to remove a loaded round, so doesn't become a burdensome problem lowering the c/p. After grinding, a little paint will help and if it's not solid fiberglass/epoxy, you may need a little epoxy to form a hard surface. I use structured carbine burrs for such work since solid burrs tend to load up the cutting surfaces and create more heat which can cause some softening of the material being worked on.

 

[McStocks]

Here's another way to go!

For those of you still using HSS or carbide burrs, etc. for working on wood, put them in a drawer and get some of these!

What the pros use!