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6.5x284 dies

I just bought a 6.5x284 norma Savage F-class rifle and I was wondering what dies to buy? I have been thinking of some RCBS competition dies but i don't know. Should I get a Neck sizer only or a full-length and a neck sizer? do the micrometer bullet seater dies work really well? if so what kind of bushings do I need to get? I really appreciate the info.
-Cody
 
I prefer Redding or Forster dies over RCBS. All in all higher quality. And Forsters customer service can't be beat. I just don't think that RCBS offers the quality that they used to when Fred Huntington owned them.

Here's what I use for my 6.5-284:

Redding S-type bushing neck die,not the micrometer version). I have a no-turn chamber and use a .292" TiN bushing with Lapua brass. I prefer a rather light neck tension with my combo. YMMV.

I bought a Redding 6.5-284 body die to full length resize the cases that are beginning to chamber a little hard. It only resizes the cartridge body and leaves the neck alone. This allows me to F/L size a case only when necessary and saves some money over buying a complete F/L and a complete neck sizing die.

A micrometer bullet seater die is worth its weight in gold when experimenting with different bullet types and different seating depths. Once you've used one you won't know how you got along without it. I prefer the Forster micrometer seater die, as I understand that its bullet seating stem is hardened and doesn't tend to wear like some others do.
 
How do you know what kind of bushings to get? How do I figure that information out? Thanks again for all of the information I really appreciate it.
-Cody
 
Asscott4, Measure your loaded round neck diameter. Whatever that measurement is order a bushing of that size and then .001 larger and .001 smaller. That should get you going and you may want to add to your collection as you progress. .002 neck tension is a plenty for a bolt gun and most shooters say that less neck tension is better for accuracy too.

Spotcheck Billy, I just received my first Forster Ultra Seater die and it is very good quality. I like Redding Type "S" bushing dies also. Sure make handloading more fun. Bill
 
I have another question... What load should I start off with? I have read that 142gr smk's with H4831sc,I believe), Fed 210m primers, and seated .020" in the lands was the load to start off with. Any suggestions? Thanks guys!!
-Cody
 
I was loading the 142 SMKs with 51 gr. of H4831sc seated .010 off
the lands in Lapua brass with the 210 Fed Match primer. My Savage F-class did not shoot "jam to lands" with the SMK 142s. I only had .002 neck tension. Hope this helps. Bill
 
I get the best results in my present barrel,30" Bartlein 5R) by jumping the 142 SMK's .020". Conversely, it likes the 139 Scenars best @ .015" jammed. You'll just have to experiment. A whole bunch depends upon how your chamber was cut,throat angle, etc). When you've found a load that's promising seat some of the bullets about .010" off the lands and shoot those loads. Then try the same loads seated .010" jammed. Your results will tell you which way to go from there. The promising direction will be the one with the least vertical bullet holes.

You won't go wrong with either H4831sc or H4350 powder. 210M primers are G-T-G when you can find them. BR-2's will work just fine.

I agree with Bill about .002 neck tension. In fact a hair less won't hurt either.
 
Cool cool thank you guys for all of the help. my Savage should be here this week sometime! Man i'm so excited. i have been wanting 1 for quite some time now lol. Oh 1 more question for ya guys... Hav any of you found any factory ammo thats worth a shit for this rifle? I was just curious. Thanks again.
-Cody
 
I don't think buying a bushing the same size and bigger than your loaded round will do you a bit of good. You need to buy a couple of bushings SMALLER than your loaded round in order to get proper bullet pull. If your brass has good properties, you can get by with .002 under but I'll bet you will have better luck with .003 and .004. You will be able to tell when seating the bullets as long as you clean all your necks before each loading.

One thing to keep in mind is that the bushings only size a portion of the neck. For this reason, I do not use them on ammo that will be carried in the field,hunting for instance) I find it better to buy a new Redding die and send it back to them to have the neck honed to match your chamber. It is a $20 fee.
 
dennis, on the Lapua 6.5 X 284 brass that I was refering to, I had a loaded round neck diameter of .294 and was using a .294 Redding Tin bushing,labeled anyway) and had all the neck tension I needed. I tried a .293 and accuracy fell off somewhat.
Some say that brass spring back is responsible for what was happening there. Don't know for sure but that was the case anyway. I was thinking that Cody may get ahold of thicker brass in the future therefore he would already have the .294 and/or the .295 which ever he decided to order. Now, I realize that as brass gets worked it becomes harder and he may need a smaller bushing down the road or anneal his necks. Just wanted to let you know why I was telling Cody which bushings I would order. Bill
 
I guess if you have a tight neck, all bets are off, but that Savage chamber is probably going to have at least a .299 or .300 neck and this will work his brass pretty good.

How much clearance do you have on your loaded round to your chamber neck?

Dennis
 
Don't know for sure Dennis. I believe it was measuring .2965 to .297 on a fired case. It seemed pretty tight for a factory barrel. Bill
 
The SAAMI spec for chamber neck diameter is.301" which works the brass quit a bit. Most the time 6.5 X 284 is loaded for shooting, not kept around in storage so keeping the neck sizing to .001" or .002" less than loaded round diameter will work fine and save the brass. So if your loaded round is .290 then a .289" buching should work fairly well. Too much neck tension can adversely affect accuracy too.
 

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