6.5SLR build questions

[Hengehold]

I am building a 6.5 SLR for NRA 1000yd prone competition and would like to use domestic brass to avoid having to turn necks and get rid or the doughnuts. R. Whitley's sight recommends 243 Win or Rem and 260 Rem as possible domestic parent cases. I was reading Winchester 243 brass reviews on MidwayUSA site and they sound HORRRRIBLE. Lots of split necks in each bag. Cases not fitting into shell holders. Primer pockets very loose and/or dangerously tight. Are these symptoms found in all cheap domestic brass?

Seems like I will have to use Remington brass but Rem 243 and 260 brass is hard to find. Possibly a limited production item. Whitley did not recommend Hornady brass but I suppose that could be considered as a no-neck turn option, yes?

I have always used Norma and Lapua for everything and don't have much experience with domestic brass. Anyone with 6.5 SLR experience using domestic brass that can share their experiences and offer suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,

-Trevor

 

[Ringostar]

Why not use Lapua 260 or the new Peterson brass?

 

[Hengehold]

Why not use Lapua 260 or the new Peterson brass?

Thanks for the suggestion. When creating the 6.5 SLR, the parent case (either 243 or 260) neck is lengthened. This means that part of the shoulder is straitened and then becomes the neck. I am looking for brass that has the same thickness in the neck as well as the shoulder. For example, neck wall thickness is .010 and shoulder wall thickness is .015. If the shoulder is thicker than the neck, this will create a portion of the newly created wildcat neck that is thicker than the parent case neck area. This results in creating a "doughnut" that needs to me removed via neck turning.

Mr. Whitley (the creator of the 6.5 SLR) suggests that many brands of brass are thicker in the shoulder than they are in the neck. He listed Lapua, Norma, and Nostler by name as having considerably thicker shoulders than the neck. He suggested using Winchester or Remington brands because they have the same brass thickness in the neck and shoulder thus eliminating the need to turn necks.

He did not mention Peterson brass but that seems like a nice option.

***Does anyone here know if the Peterson shoulders are thicker than the necks?****

-Trevor

 

[smokinghole]

Thanks for the suggestion. When creating the 6.5 SLR, the parent case (either 243 or 260) neck is lengthened. This means that part of the shoulder is straitened and then becomes the neck. I am looking for brass that has the same thickness in the neck as well as the shoulder. For example, neck wall thickness is .010 and shoulder wall thickness is .015. If the shoulder is thicker than the neck, this will create a portion of the newly created wildcat neck that is thicker than the parent case neck area. This results in creating a "doughnut" that needs to me removed via neck turning.

Mr. Whitley (the creator of the 6.5 SLR) suggests that many brands of brass are thicker in the shoulder than they are in the neck. He listed Lapua, Norma, and Nostler by name as having considerably thicker shoulders than the neck. He suggested using Winchester or Remington brands because they have the same brass thickness in the neck and shoulder thus eliminating the need to turn necks.

He did not mention Peterson brass but that seems like a nice option.

***Does anyone here know if the Peterson shoulders are thicker than the necks?****

-Trevor

If you're going with a wildcat chambering, buy a neck turning setup. Seems like a solution to a non standard problem. Doesn't seem worth it go to into a wildcat offering for 1k and not consider neck turning

Also Peterson brass is more than likely thicker in the shoulder. Just like any of the premium brass manufacturers.

 

[Ringostar]

I have considered a 6.5 SLR. I was not aware that any brass manufacturer had shoulders as thin as the neck. Either way I would still turn the necks to clean up any thickness variation. I used Winchester 243 brass to make 260 brass before Lapua made it. I still turned the necks slightly to even the thickness for use with a bushing die.

 

[Kurz]

Here is a supply of sellers who have Remington brand .260 brass for sale:

https://www.gunbroker.com/All/BI.aspx?Keywords=260+brass

Call ADG to ask about the neck thickness. Nothing like going to the source for the best information:

http://www.atlasdg.com/index.cfm/ID/5/ContactUs/
http://www.atlasdg.com/index.cfm/ID/5/ContactUs/
Regards.

 

[XTR]

I load for a 6SLR, not a 6.5 but...

I use WW 243 brass, and I've not seen the awful brass as described.

If you are loading for single feed long range shooting have your chamber cut to seat the bullet above the doughnut and use what ever brass you want. The dought should only be a problem if you seat deeply.

If you must, get a FL die and a K&M turning kit. I size my 6SLR brass with a Whidden bushing die and don't turn. If you are going to turn I think you will need a proper FL die to get the neck to be consistent to the shoulder.

 

[XTR]

One thing that you may want to do with 243 brass would be to anneal it after the first sizing operation. Trying to expand it and move the shoulder could stress it enough to crack it.

 

[Milo 2.0]

One thing that you may want to do with 243 brass would be to anneal it after the first sizing operation. Trying to expand it and move the shoulder could stress it enough to crack it.

I used Win 243 to make 6.5slr, did not anneal during the process, I did not get any adverse effects.
6.5 slr was not for me, saw minimal gains if any over the Creedmoor, all I had was a round that barely fit in the longest magazines available, fired 600 rds and the barrel went in the scrap heap.

 

[HPMike800]

I shoot 6.5SLR for NRA prone and use Lapua/Peterson brass. I had a 6SLR and used Win brass for the 6. The Win brass is much less work, it also lasts 1/2 as long and the 6 was never as consistently accurate as the 6.5 has turned out to be. I never solved the 6SLR inconsistency but moved to Lapua for the 6.5 rendition.

When pushing the shoulder back, the work is the same for Lapua and Peterson. I have had to neck turn and inside ream to true the necks to my satisfaction. Needless to say I hope brass life is long and prosperous.

 

[Hengehold]

I shoot 6.5SLR for NRA prone and use Lapua/Peterson brass. I had a 6SLR and used Win brass for the 6. The Win brass is much less work, it also lasts 1/2 as long and the 6 was never as consistently accurate as the 6.5 has turned out to be. I never solved the 6SLR inconsistency but moved to Lapua for the 6.5 rendition.

When pushing the shoulder back, the work is the same for Lapua and Peterson. I have had to neck turn and inside ream to true the necks to my satisfaction. Needless to say I hope brass life is long and prosperous.

Thank you for sharing your experiences. I was not familiar with Peterson brass until someone mentioned it here. I think I am going to end up buying Peterson 260 brass and just turn down the necks. I can stomach $70/100 but not the $100/100 for the Lapua.

My expectation is that I can create a uniformed neck wall by turning the necks. (I currently have a Sinclair neck turning tool) I have never attempted to ream the inside of the necks. Seems like metal removal could be very dependent on neck tension from case to case.

1. What brand of neck reamer did you use and what size was needed for the Peterson brass?

2. Did you ream first and neck turn second?

Thanks,
-T

 

[dave7mm]

http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/reloader-16-vs-reloader-17.3909379/#post-36830656

 

[HPMike800]

Thank you for sharing your experiences. I was not familiar with Peterson brass until someone mentioned it here. I think I am going to end up buying Peterson 260 brass and just turn down the necks. I can stomach $70/100 but not the $100/100 for the Lapua.

My expectation is that I can create a uniformed neck wall by turning the necks. (I currently have a Sinclair neck turning tool) I have never attempted to ream the inside of the necks. Seems like metal removal could be very dependent on neck tension from case to case.

1. What brand of neck reamer did you use and what size was needed for the Peterson brass?

2. Did you ream first and neck turn second?

Thanks,
-T

I fire form shooting in mid-range matches with a 107 or 123 SMK loaded forward of the thick area.
Then I turned out the heavy area.

After the second firing, (which shot very well at 1,000 yds even though the whole neck was still tight) there was still a lot of thickness. I found a 17/64 two flute cutter in a machinists clutter. It fit the fired cases nicely and I ran it through. I then turned them all again to about 0.002" fired clearance.

The cases measure out fine now.
Mike

 

[MTSLW]

You might want to try some Fiocchi .243 brass as well. I necked some up for my 260 and found it to be pretty consistent and tough. It's super reasonable as well.

 

[Hengehold]

I shoot 6.5SLR for NRA prone and use Lapua/Peterson brass. I had a 6SLR and used Win brass for the 6. The Win brass is much less work, it also lasts 1/2 as long and the 6 was never as consistently accurate as the 6.5 has turned out to be. I never solved the 6SLR inconsistency but moved to Lapua for the 6.5 rendition.

When pushing the shoulder back, the work is the same for Lapua and Peterson. I have had to neck turn and inside ream to true the necks to my satisfaction. Needless to say I hope brass life is long and prosperous.

The Longer that I wade through the trials and tribulations of reloading for an extended neck wildcat like the SLR, the more I wish I had picked a cartridge with an off-the-shelf brass option.

Remind me again why we independently arrived at the conclusion that the SLR is a better choice than the straight 260 Remington?

-T

 

[Ringostar]

I don't know that it's any better shooting than a 260. I haven't tried the slr route yet. The longer neck will give more options for bullet choice, pending freebore length.

 

[HPMike800]

The Longer that I wade through the trials and tribulations of reloading for an extended neck wildcat like the SLR, the more I wish I had picked a cartridge with an off-the-shelf brass option.

Remind me again why we independently arrived at the conclusion that the SLR is a better choice than the straight 260 Remington?

-T

Because I shoot 6 BRX I guess and I think it walks on water.

I did find the 6SLR had improved barrel life over the 243 Win, I had 2500 on the 6SLR barrel when I stopped and it was shooting just fine. I quit due to the brass aging out.

I think there is some velocity advantage, I ran my 260 at 2780, and my 6.5 SLR is running 2850-2880 with the same type of brass / pressure.

Overall, I'm happy with the 6.5SLR. We'll see what the brass life / barrel life turns out to be.

 

[EXTREME]

Thanks for the suggestion. When creating the 6.5 SLR, the parent case (either 243 or 260) neck is lengthened. This means that part of the shoulder is straitened and then becomes the neck. I am looking for brass that has the same thickness in the neck as well as the shoulder. For example, neck wall thickness is .010 and shoulder wall thickness is .015. If the shoulder is thicker than the neck, this will create a portion of the newly created wildcat neck that is thicker than the parent case neck area. This results in creating a "doughnut" that needs to me removed via neck turning.

Mr. Whitley (the creator of the 6.5 SLR) suggests that many brands of brass are thicker in the shoulder than they are in the neck. He listed Lapua, Norma, and Nostler by name as having considerably thicker shoulders than the neck. He suggested using Winchester or Remington brands because they have the same brass thickness in the neck and shoulder thus eliminating the need to turn necks.

He did not mention Peterson brass but that seems like a nice option.

***Does anyone here know if the Peterson shoulders are thicker than the necks?****

-Trevor

Lapua make 7mm-08 brass. Just run it through your 6.5 SLR die and the necks will actually become thinner and move forward into the neck and away from the shoulder. Not sure if it will eliminate the donut but it will surely be somewhat less.