6.5 creedmoor or 6.5x284?

[ghost_rider]

I have been itching to get a new gun and the local shop has the same gun in both these calibers. They are savages with a spiral fluted bolt and i believe a vented wooden stock. I cant remember if they have the accu trigger or not. What i am looking for is a g-hog gun that will reach to 800 yds. I have read a great deal on both calibers and am still torn on which one to get. Im not too interested in cleaning every 20 rds if i dont need too. I do reload and plan on reloading for this rifle as well. I am looking at shooting 120 gr amaxs at g-hogs and possibly using 140 gr pills for deer. I already have a .243 but cant shoot any bigger bullets then 95gr and they are not what i would call good bullets for g-hogs with the rural setting i hunt in. Reality most shots are under 500 yds but some can stretch out there. Any thoughts? I do jot plan on changing the barrel out until i shoot it out.

 

[B Mize]

Creedmoor..........
2-3 times the barrel life, less recoil, plenty of gas to get beyond 1k, factory match ammo if needed, less powder when reloading, .................................

my 0.02

 

[zorak]

Iv often wondered about the 6.5 creedmor. iv read good things about it also. And they are around the same speed.

Or what about the 6.5 rem mag. Its moving faster then both of them. not sure how the barrel life is though.

 

[ghost_rider]

Creedmoor..........
2-3 times the barrel life, less recoil, plenty of gas to get beyond 1k, factory match ammo if needed, less powder when reloading, .................................

my 0.02

Is it hard to get brass? Im worried if i go with the 284 version the barrel length will limit it down to creedmoor speeds anyhow. I dont really want to change the barrel out on it and i know most savages need cleaned more often due to the rifling not being as deep as other factory barrels.

I really decided on the creedmoor but was worried i might regret it in a few years and go to a 284 version anyhow

 

[Raptor]

Go with the 6.5x284 if you want to kill stuff. I have shot the barrels out of a couple of them in tactical matches and also the 260s. I love the 260s but the 6.5x284 is a lot harder hitting with the heavier bullets.

If your using it for a hunting rifle then barrel life should not be a problem. The problem with the 6.5x284 is they use them for comps where you shoot strings of fire and the barrel gets hot and then eats the thoat out. The 6.5x284 rings steel like a 300wm when it its it. The smaller 6.5s just make a ding. Trust me there is a lot of difference in energy, esp. at longer ranges. In closing your going to be happy with either.

 

[B Mize]

Barrel length will be the factor that determines speed for the most part.
If your going with a 24 you will not gain that much speed going with the 284. Of course a faster/slower powder can make a difference with any barrel length.
If you go with a 28-30 the CM or even the 47L will get close to 3k with 140's.
I don't shoot the lighter bullets, but I'm sure with the longer tube the 120's will be over 3k.
With the longer tube, the 284 will smoke the others.

You said most shots in reality under 500. No need for the larger case at that distance. Even at 800 a G'hog will not stop a bullet from exiting the oppisite side :^))

 

[Judd]

Hornady brass is the only available right now. I have one and went with that reamer because of the barrel life difference between it and the 284. It is a hammer and I really like it...think I am going to try a x47 next.

 

[Nomad47]

Nobody has mentioned twist rates unless I missed it. If one is a 10 twist and the other an 8 twist, buy the 8 twist so you can shoot the long heavy bullets out to 800 or beyond.

 

[bronco_buster]

I felt the same concern about brass with respect to the Creedmoor. I have 15 reloads on my first box of Hornady virgin brass. I don't load real hot, because I just punch paper or shoot steel. I do anneal after every 4th loading. I have purchased about 10 boxes of their match ammo, which personally, I don't think can hold a candle to my loads...but that brass is waiting on reloading. I also have another 5 boxes of virgin brass in the wings. Looking at my meager stash, if I keep up the same reloading habits, that brass will provide over 6500 reloads, which should shoot out my barrel. For my semi, I decided to try and fireform. I use 22-250 brass. So far I've fireformed 100 Win cases. They are on reloading number 4, and starting to loosen up in the primer pocket. My Lapua 22-250 cases are on reloading number 3 and still factory tight. Problem is the semi beats them up a bit.

But, I basically did it as a test to reassure myself that I could make my own brass if needed. Since I've started, I have never seen 6.5 Creedmoor brass out of stock. Any given day I can find Hornady brass online and locally, as well as factory Hornady match ammo online or locally as well.

I love the round, and personally, have no concern over component availability. It seems the competition shooters have embraced, or are starting to embrace the round, more and more every day. I don't personally agree with the other big name brass companies not supporting it because it was Hornady's brain child, but I think they're kidding themselves if they think that alienating Creedmoor shooters is going to make the caliber go away. Its made me much more aware of how far Hornady's brass has come.

 

[ghost_rider]

The gun i was looking a is a 11/111 lightweight hunter. Both have 20" barrels and i dont thing the .284 version will capitlize with this gun with such a short barrel. Im really considering rebarreling the .243 i have on a mauser action to a faster twist heavier barrel and make it a ackley improved. I figured if i can launch a 100+ gr bullet such as a amax or a berger at 2900-3000 its pretty close to the creedmoor as far as drop? With less money invested. Most fields i hunt for ghogs are 500yds. Some are a little longer. But for deer i should be able to reach out to 300 yds. Idk right now im not sure i can justify the purchase at this point.

 

[ghost_rider]

Well u ended up buying a 6.5x284 in a savage mod 116. 24" bll with 1-8 twist. I bought some nosler loaded rounds to get started. Gonna have to place an order at midway for dies brass and bullets. Doing some reading it looks like the 142 smk over 4831sc or 4350 both from hodgen seem to be doing well. I plan on putting a super sniper 20 or 16 power scope on it. Not sure which power scope i want yet. Thanks for the help fellas

 

[.260 james]

Don't be afraid to try H1000 in that either, my brother has been having good luck with H1000 and 140 gr. bergers. I heard a tale about that particular savage harvesting a pair of antelope today. And all involved were impressed with the results.

 

[ghost_rider]

Should i get neck size only set of dies or should i buy a fl neck size and seater kit. If so which brand? I have mostly rcbs stuff now but i have used lee dies as well. Also brass. A local here swears by nosler brass whats your thoughts?

 

[nhm16]

Should i get neck size only set of dies or should i buy a fl neck size and seater kit. If so which brand? I have mostly rcbs stuff now but i have used lee dies as well. Also brass. A local here swears by nosler brass whats your thoughts?

I use the Redding full length bushing die, and adjust it so that it pushes the shoulder back 0.01-0.015" in a bolt gun. Another alternative is a Redding body die (adjusted thesame way) and a Lee collet neck sizing die. I actually prefer that but the collet dies are not available in every caliber, and it's two steps instead of one.

I usually use Lapua brass if available or can be formed, then Winchester. Nosler charges Lapua/Norma prices but from all I've read seems like it's soft brass and won't last you very long.

 

[jonbearman]

I think the poster above meant .001 to .0015 which is 1 thousanth.Or a thou and a half,not .010 which would cause a headspace issue.

 

[ghost_rider]

Yeah i thought that was a bit extreme to be pushing the shoulder back.