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6.5 1:9 twist question

skinnj1

Silver $$ Contributor
I am looking to build a heavier barrel long range plinker 6.5x55. The budget will limit me to Shilen or Douglas barrels not the $$$ barrels. Midway and Brownell's are stocking 1-9 not 1-8/8.5. I currently own a PTG Reamer that is throated pretty long and am nervous the 120-130 grain bullets won't like that much jump. So is there anybody who has had luck with a 1-9 shilen or douglas with 140-142 gr bullets at long range?

Thanks,
 
A 1:9 will not stabilize the 140-142 family of bullets at long range.
By the time you pay for the chambering and lathe work to crown and chamber the bbl, you are far better off to go ahead and spend an extra $150 for a premium bbl with a 1:8 twist that will handle whatever you put through it.
 
I had one of the first Remington VLS 260s and it outshot my custom rifle or at least shot just as well with 140s. The Remington VLS had a 1-9 twist and was a consistant .5 and under rifle if I did my part. However that being said it did seem to have a shorter throat than I though it would have.
 
139 Lapua Scenars at 2950 out of a 1:9 twist to 1,000 yards no problems under any conditions so far.
 
I appreciate the responses.

Fivering sorry didn't add I'm doing the metalwork myself...
Rust/Raptor/Wanyne Shaw I'm worried that a "true 1-9" will stabilize a 140 but a 1-9.2 or 1-9.3 won't so I'm looking for anecdotal success with either a shilen or douglass for reassurance...

Thanks,
 
SHort answer is yes if its a true 1-9 twist. Most people shoot 1-8.5 nowadays to make sure.

if your shooting a 260 why not shoot the 130 norma golden target?

RHINOUT!
 
Rhino,
Good point I was going to bring up: 'true' twist.

If I remember correctly, aren't you the guy I scored for at a Williamsport match last year,or maybe the year before) who was shooting some heavy,115's or 117's) bullets from a .243 that Walther said was the right twist, but wasn't actually stabilizing the bullets?

You later measured the twist to be slower than you specified.

Moral of the story: trust but verify. An error in twist rate is likely to go un-noticed if it's too fast, but if the twist is too slow, and you're borderline, you'll spray the vicinity of the target with improperly stabilized bullets.

-Bryan
 
I'll second Raptor's & Wayne's comments-
I worked a 700 VLS chambered in 260 Rem w/1:9" twist Bbl for a junior-loaner OTC & LR rifle.
Loading Rem URBR brass,Moly'd 140/142's @ 2750fps the rig would shoot less than 1/2 MOA.
The Rem Bbl has 1500rds through it to date & is holding up quite well.
 
i have a cooper rifle with a 1&9 TWIST IT SHOOTS THE 140SMK BUT NOT THE 142SMK ITS LONGER THATS MY RIFLE ANYWAY.
 
1-8.5 Twist for the heavy match bullets is the norm. I would chamber that in a Swede and be happy with the cheaper brass and longer barrel life.

RHINOUT!
 
I have a cooper 6.5 x284 rifle it shoots the 140 smk just fine not sure about the 142 smk never tryed them. oh and it has a 1&9 twist.
 
you should be fine with a true 1/9. i'm building my 6.5x47 on a kreiger 1/9, and have talked to some very experienced 1000 yd shooters, and they said that their 1/9's stabilize the 140's.

i'll be shooting the 130's, but am hoping with the 1/9 i can get a little more speed from my 25" barrel.

good luck
 
I will put up my Douglas barrel against any other high dollar barrel. If you dont think they can shoot, just give Douglas a call and ask for Stanley. He is ranked in the the top 10 in the world.
If you want a barrel, talk to Punk. He is amazing and has over 30 years of barrel making experiance. I shoot a 1:8 and will be building a 1:9 6.5 Lapua soon.
Jerod
 
I had my reasons for trying a 1-9 twist, turns out I was right for my particular rig.

Of course I checked the barrels when received to insure that they were a true 1-9, and ran the borescope through to make sure there were no defects, and even dropped a bore rod through to make sure the bores were pretty straight (something that used to be done a lot more commonly when barrels were a little more questionable many years ago).

No sense spending money on smithing if the barrel isn't right to begin with.

But for something that isn't a full on target rig, maybe a 1-8.5 might be a better choice as it leaves enough margin to stabilize bullets if the maker is a little off on the twist.

But the way I figure it is, if I'm spending $300 or more on a supposedly top notch match barrel, the maker better meet the advertised specs on the nose.
 
I've got a 6.5-06 with a Douglas in 1:9 and it will shoot 120 and 130's better than 140's (old Seirra's). I have not tried the 142's. It shoots the 120's and 130's great at 600yds.
 
My 6.5mm Brux I asked for it in 1:7.5 and the owner recommended I do a 1:9. This was for an F-Open rifle that has a barrel finished at 30".

So while I would recommend 1:8 or 1:7 this was prob. 10 years ago. It is a 260 but I have another identical barrel that I will be building a 6.5CM. I can not image it will have any issues since the barrel has no clue it will be used for a 6.5CM instead of a 260Rem!
 

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