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5.56 in a .223? I did it!!

So, I did something EVERY ONE says NOT TO DO!!!
I shot some 5.56 factory ammo through my Savage Axis Precision Rifle chambered in .223 only!
I used some Sig Sauer 5.56 77gr. Frontier 5.56 68gr. and some IMI 5.56 77 gr ammo.
I checked each round at home using various tools, gages and methods I learned to make sure each and
every round would function safely in my rifle.
There was no hard chambering, bolt lift, extraction, over pressure signs on the primers.
All cases were dimensionally checked and recorded before and after firing and were no
different than my other ammo that I shot that were designated as .223
I slugged the chamber shortly after I got the rifle and re-slugged it after this experiment and found
nothing really changed.
Recoil felt no different nor did it sound any different.
The results from my chronograph showed only a slight increase in velocity.
Best of all the groups were stellar!
 
Don't listen to some of the keyboard commando's. You will get some very good knowledge from this site. The best site going.
 
Don't listen to some of the keyboard commando's. You will get some very good knowledge from this site. The best site going.
yeah, I know. I just started this thread to see what folks will say. I found 2 websites
You cheated death!!!

Greg
Naw, I don't think so. Everything went just fine. Chrono results showed no real spikes, primers looked fine.
Case dimensions were within specs. I found 2 websites that go into GREAT detail about the "differences" between 5.56/.223 ammo and chambers. I think most folks just go about repeating what they read, or heard without verifying it for themselves. Now I'm not saying something bad won't happen in "your" rifle, just that nothing bad happened in my rifle.
 
Of course you can't find pressure signs on brass or primers. The pressure of the 5.56 is what they are designed for. However the rifle is not.
Have you ever seen someone cut a stone or a brick using a hammer and chisel? They will strike with the hammer repeatedly and then after many blows the stone or brick fractures. With your logic it is the one perfect blow at the last that causes the fracture. I contend that it's the accumulated force of all the blows.
Either way, when your rifle fails, you'll have no liability claim against Savage.
 
Of course you can't find pressure signs on brass or primers. The pressure of the 5.56 is what they are designed for. However the rifle is not.
Have you ever seen someone cut a stone or a brick using a hammer and chisel? They will strike with the hammer repeatedly and then after many blows the stone or brick fractures. With your logic it is the one perfect blow at the last that causes the fracture. I contend that it's the accumulated force of all the blows.
Either way, when your rifle fails, you'll have no liability claim against Savage.
"Of course you can't find pressure signs on brass or primers?" Did you just really say that!?
 
Did you know that the pressure data provided in manuals is measured differently between factory 5.56 and factory .223?
 
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I would bet a 5.56 has less bolt thrust than a .246 or 6CM. CIP spec .223 is 61kpsi if I am not mistaken. I will guarantee that most .223 AI are loaded WAAAAY over 5.56 specs. I am pretty sure that Savage makes a .270 which is far more blot thrust. I am not suggesting that you do it ,but I also would not have nightmares over it either.
 
I would bet a 5.56 has less bolt thrust than a .246 or 6CM. CIP spec .223 is 61kpsi if I am not mistaken. I will guarantee that most .223 AI are loaded WAAAAY over 5.56 specs. I am pretty sure that Savage makes a .270 which is far more blot thrust. I am not suggesting that you do it ,but I also would not have nightmares over it either.
Yeah, I pretty much agree with you. As long as the bullet in factory 5.56 ammo IS NOT crammed into the lands, it will shoot just fine. I make my reloads based off what my manuals/sources says is 5.56 in the nominal range. The data for .223 and 5.56 loads overlap and that's pretty much where I set my loads, in that zone that overlaps.
As for measuring bolt thrust? I haven't a clue how I'd measure that other than perhaps by bolt lift effort.
 
I've shot lots of M855 Greet tip ammo in my R-700, with the factory 9" twist barrel.
Rifle has little freebore as well, and no problems except the not so top notch 2 to 3 moa accuracy.
I haven't tried the green tipped in this rifle...yet. My rifle has a 1:7 twist and it has shot 65-77gr. factory ammo and my reloads with outstanding results @ 100 yards. Often 5 shots almost through one hole, not quite but almost. I'll be heading to one of the ranges here in the Rocky Mountains to stretch this rifle out to 600-1000 yards before the winter returns. It's just too easy to shoot sub-MOA @ 100 yards with this rifle.
 
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Of course you can't find pressure signs on brass or primers. The pressure of the 5.56 is what they are designed for. However the rifle is not.
Have you ever seen someone cut a stone or a brick using a hammer and chisel? They will strike with the hammer repeatedly and then after many blows the stone or brick fractures. With your logic it is the one perfect blow at the last that causes the fracture. I contend that it's the accumulated force of all the blows.
Either way, when your rifle fails, you'll have no liability claim against Savage.
I have a have a 700 Rem Varmint Special, the one that came with a bull barrel, factory chambered in .223, that dates to about 1975. Are you telling me that that beast is going to fail from shooting 5.56 ammo in it? Or are you saying that only Savages chambered in .223 will fail if 5.56 rounds are shot in them?
 

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