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45 ACP help:

IMG_0685.JPG Contact Jim Knapp, 309-441-5838. He was an AMU gunsmith , he built a number of Bullseye pistols for select few customers mine included. Know of one for sale too that is top notch.
 
try looking at this forum. https://forums.1911forum.com/

There are so many parts and procedures to accurize a 1911, as well as different loads, and shooter posture and techniques, that you need to get some books on the subjects.

This thread from the 1911 Forum will get you started on load development: https://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=534225&highlight=jayhawk

Most people don't have the skills or the equipment needed to properly build a Bullseye quality 1911 and go to smiths who specialize in the discipline like Greg Derr, Joe Chambers, Dave Sams, KCs Customs, and others. Be ready for a long wait and to drop $5-7K for a custom built piece.
 
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This thread from the 1911 Forum will get you started on load development: https://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=534225&highlight=jayhawk

Most people don't have the skills or the equipment needed to properly build a Bullseye quality 1911 and go to smiths who specialize in the discipline like Greg Derr, Joe Chambers, Dave Sams, KCs Customs, and others. Be ready for a long wait and to drop $5-7K for a custom built piece.
Yeah.. Joe Chambers used to chime in on the site rather often..
 
I have a Kimber Pro Carry 2 that is bone stock I have been reloading for 30 + years but am new to the 1911 style pistol
 
That taper crimp is really important, need to get that just right.. i wonder how long the chamber is in your pistol.. that is also a very important aspect to accuracy in the 45 acp
Correct to much crimp especially with plated bullets can really screw up accuracy , just remove the bell from expanding it for the seating process... Your best bet is to get some range time before doing anything to the gun...
 
Correct to much crimp especially with plated bullets can really screw up accuracy , just remove the bell from expanding it for the seating process... Your best bet is to get some range time before doing anything to the gun...
Just check some old Bullseye ammo.. i measured .4700 at the case mouth.
 
That taper crimp is really important, need to get that just right.. i wonder how long the chamber is in your pistol.. that is also a very important aspect to accuracy in the 45 acp
Take your barrel out of the gun and load up a long dummy round. Insert it into the chamber. Keep seating the bullet a little at a time until it fits flush to just below the barrel hood. You will hear the "plunk", and you can rotate the round insuring you are not on the rifling. When you get close to flush with the hood (the extension looking part on top of the barrel chamber) start seating .001-.002. The round should also fall out of the chamber freely when you invert the barrel/chamber. I run all my reloads through chamber gauge to help insure reliability/feeding/function. I have had some crap brass that wouldn't fit the chamber gauge well. It was mostly Amerc I believe.
 
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First off, What is your goal? Pleasure style banging on paper & steel or precision "Bullseye style" shooting. I shoot the latter primarily, but do enjoy the occasional trip into the "just cuz it's loud & makes noise" arena.

For precision loads @ 50 yards, my go to Competition load is: selected brass (either TZZ or Rem), 4.7 gr Bullseye, 185 gr Jacketed HP (either Zero or Nostler), WLP primer, crimped to .469/.470, OAL 1.210 This load had shot 1 to 1 1/2" 10 shot groups out of no less than 7 different Bullseye built 1911's at 50 yards. Don't expect those results if your 1911 isn't built to that close tolerances.

50 yard practice loads are 4.0 Clays with a well cast H&G 68 or Zero 200 SWC, .468 crimp, PMC or Federal brass, any primer.
25 yard or 50' just about any lead bullet in front of 3.5 - 3.8 Clays will cut a ragged hole with mixed brass. Both these are very mild and very accurate loads. Lead loads seem to shoot better when loaded down a bit plus the added benefit of more pleasurable extended shooting sessions. You may have to replace your recoil spring with a lighter one if shooting reduced loads and you're running a 16# or heavier spring. Don't get hung up on OAL with lead, just leave a thumbnail thickness or two of lead exposed above the brass (the full diameter portion of the bullet, not the nose).

For pleasure shooting, just about any bullet that is at least .0005-.0015 OVER groove diameter will work. Plated bullets will do just fine also. Not all 1911's will function with SWC bullets. The only way to tell is to give it a try. The 45 ACP will shoot well with quite a few powders. I've used Bullseye, 700x, Clays, Solo 1000, WST to name a few.

Al
 
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laser cast 200 grain swc with 4.5 grains n310. if you cant get that load to shoot in your 1911, start making changes. I would suggest a Kart ez fit barrel.
 

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