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40 S&W Help

Well I finally got sick of getting kicked in the pocket book every time I pulled the trigger, went out and got what I needed to reload for the .40.

Its was a spurr of the moment kind of thing at Cabela's. I put down my box of 20 rounds that was going to cost me $25 and went to the reloading section. Not having antisipated this I had no reload data and I opened up the only reloading manual that wasnt still shrink wraped.

I bought 155gr Hornady TSXs and Ramshot's True Blue powder. As per Lyman's 156th(?) edition manual. I also got Fedral small pistol primers.

Right now I am having trouble finding much data for the powder and bullet selection. I read Ramshots data and the safest recipe I have found was a start load of 6.9gr for a 165gr jacketed bullets. So I loaded a couple up last night just to try everything out and I weighted out 7gr of powder for my 155gr bullets.

Any one have some good pointers out there for this combo? Also this is my first time reloading pistol ammo, so any pointer there too would be great.

Oh, also I would love some more recipes. We will see how this powder works out but I am a pretty big Hodgdons fan with my rifles.

Thanks a lot.
 
I used to shoot a lot of competitive pistol with a Para High cap 40. Montana Gold 200 grain bullets over 4.8 to 5.5 grains of Bullseye. Accurate for 50 yards. Dirty powder with a bit of "smoking" but fun to shoot. Good luck Scott
 
VV N320 is a great powder, not too snappy, but allows you to quickly recover for secondary shots. Also take a look at Winchester Super Target too.
 
Thanks for the help.

When you guys are working loads up to max pressure are you also checking for an accuracy node like rifles, or just trying to get as much velocity as you can?

I went with the 155gr bullets because it was all that was available in TSX besides 200gr. I would prefer to be shooting a higher end 165gr hp. I keep hearing about competition guys shooting 180gr to 200gr bullets. I like the idea of a quicker round but what are some of the advatages of a heavier round? My only reloading experiences have been with rifles and am not sure how BC and twist rates get involved with pistol rounds.
 
depending on the distance you are shooting, the bearing surface of the bullet is important for longer ranges beyond 10 yd.in my experience.

That is why the old 38 wad cutter is all bearing surface for gettin the most out of 25yd +

however on autos that design is a problem - the 180-200 at a slower velocity give the most bearing surface while meeting the minimum energy requirments for ipsc and other simlar competetive shooting. as well as bull eye.

if you want to push for max fps they are still the better choice if you want to have an accurate load beyond short distance.

Bob
 
Im young and extra velocity makes me smile, but long range is really what makes me happy.

I was shooting some of Hornady's 165gr Critical Defense (Fanciest stuff I have ever shot through a handgun.) Got it because we're trying to catch a feral pitbull/mastiff mutt killing deer in our woods. Ether way the very fist shot was at a clay pigon at 80 yards and I nailed it(serious.) Shot some more at 50 yards and was getting a little under a 2ft group.

I guess I will just have to test, test and test. I can see where a progressive loader would be handy :o
 
I like the Precision 'black bullet' 185gr, Fed primer, Win brass, and N320 for my IDPA And USPSA loads in a Glock 35. YMMV.

I should also add.... Glock factory barrels may not like lead bullets. I use a KKR barrel. Problem solved.
 
Glock bbl are poly agonal, (mispelled) and not rifled as others, do not use lead bullets as they lead upfast and can cause real pressure problems, same true of HK

imsha sil shooters do a lot of long range pistol out to 200 meters. none use the shorter bullets with any degree of winning. i have used 357m and 44m in revolver class and the heavier bullets win.

Bob
 
I use mostly W231 and titegroup with 180gr bullets in my EMP40. You need to test your gun to see what bullet weight and shape it likes best. My EMP 40 shoots the 180gr bullets much more accurately than the lighter weight bullets. AA#2 and #5 are also excellent choices. VV320 is great but the most expensive and harder to find for me.
 
You don't state what make of Pistol you are using.

If it's a Glock don't hot rod it.

Glocks have a poorly supported chamber design, hence the Glock Bulge in the .40 S&W

caliber.

Too much of a good thing and thats where the case will rupture.

Glock Kabooms are not a good thing !

Be safe !!

Regards and Good Shootin,

Steve
 
Take that OEM bbl out of that Glock and put a good aftermarket bbl in there and things change.. but then I don't like Glocks.. they don't point well for me.
 
Steven Dzupin said:
You don't state what make of Pistol you are using.

If it's a Glock don't hot rod it.

Glocks have a poorly supported chamber design, hence the Glock Bulge in the .40 S&W

caliber.

Too much of a good thing and thats where the case will rupture.

Glock Kabooms are not a good thing !

Be safe !!

Regards and Good Shootin,

Steve
some of the early gens of Glock were bad for this, and your right a Glock Kaboom is bad! But the newer 3rd Gens have better chamber support and I dont get glock "smiles" on my 40sw......now 10mm is another story ::)
 

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