.357 mag revolver loads

[Multitoes]

Hi all.
I want to start shooting my 357 again ; it is a medium frame revolver.
I know that heavy loads will tend to shoot it loose in time ; I always figured high pressure loads would be the strain on the gun but I was told that it is not the pressure but rather the recoil that will cause it to loosen up.
Does this sound correct ?
Thanks for any insight.

 

[Lapua40X]

Please don't' take my remark personally, it isn't intended as an assessment of your post.
No, it doesn't sound correct; it sounds absurd. As you increase any load you increase pressure, which results in increased recoil. Your source for the information you were given is not one that I would rely upon.
Just remember to stay within limits of your reload manual data. I've seen revolvers explode due to improper loads - it isn't pretty. In addition to proper loads, make sure that you properly clean the forcing cone after every use. Lead, brass accumulation at that point can create pressure problems. Also, check the cylinder/barrel alignment. I've seen revolvers, fresh from the factory, that had cylinder/bore misalignments that were so bad you could see the offset with the naked eye.
One last point - if you have to enlist the services of a good handgun specialist gunsmith, don't ask how cylinder/bore realignment is done. The method is crude, but it works.

 

[Multitoes]

Please don't' take my remark personally, it isn't intended as an assessment of your post.
No, it doesn't sound correct; it sounds absurd. As you increase any load you increase pressure, which results in increased recoil. Your source for the information you were given is not one that I would rely upon.
Just remember to stay within limits of your reload manual data. I've seen revolvers explode due to improper loads - it isn't pretty. In addition to proper loads, make sure that you properly clean the forcing cone after every use. Lead, brass accumulation at that point can create pressure problems. Also, check the cylinder/barrel alignment. I've seen revolvers, fresh from the factory, that had cylinder/bore misalignments that were so bad you could see the offset with the naked eye.
One last point - if you have to enlist the services of a good handgun specialist gunsmith, don't ask how cylinder/bore realignment is done. The method is crude, but it works.

I used to shoot my revolver a lot with reloads so have lots of experience with loading for it ; I shot mostly moderate loads using lead bullets.
It is a Dan Wesson and in perfect condition.
I have a bunch of jacketed bullets I want to shoot up and I see that Lil Gun gives high velocity with low pressure (Hodgdon load data) in the 357 so thought I would try that.
Just wondering if the lower pressure loads would cause less battering to the revolver than loads using other powders at considerably higher pressure for the same velocity.

 

[bigedp51]

Multitoes, think of reloading and the powder charge like the tachometer in a car. Running at the RPM red line is hard on the engine and reduces its engine life. (and the same applies to a firearm)

Below is the maximum charge of 296 in a 357 revolver from Hodgdon's website, the chamber pressure is 34,735 psi (Red line on the tach) and only 65.76% of the powder is burnt because of the four inch barrel.

Below is a reduced practice load for the 357, the chamber pressure is 18,636 psi. Also please notice 100% of the powder is burnt at a little over three inches of barrel length.

Loading near or at maximum pressure (red line on the tachometer) is hard on a firearm and your brass. With lower chamber pressures you are cruising at 4,000 rpm and getting great gas mileage from your car/firearm.

And yes there is a difference between a medium frame and large frame revolvers and the pounding they will take.

My son doesn't reload and sold me his S&W model 29-5 five inch .44 Magnum because the factory loaded ammunition he was shooting was hot and giving him a pounding.

He came home for Christmas and shot the same revolver that was reloaded and turned into a pussycat. The Speer reloading manual has loads for short barreled revolvers, and these loads can be reduced even further for very good practice loads you can shoot all day long.

The charts above are from Quickload, the green dotted line is 95% burnt and the purple line is 100% burnt. Please note the top .357 chart doesn't even have a 95% burnt line, meaning you need to figure barrel length into the reloading equation to reduce muzzle blast and the added "rocket thrust".

 

[357Mag]

Multi -

Howdy !

My favorite .357Mag load:

14.5gr WW296 ( H-110 same stuff ) & SP Mag primer, under a .357 cal Lyman SWC of 158 - 172gr. These don't have to be gas checked

This was the minimum recommended charge wt of 296 that Winchester ( Olin ) quoted for .357Mag, in their old reloading handout pamphlet.

I've shot this load in 4, 5, & 6" N"-frames, an M-19; and an 1894SC ( see sample pic ).

For a more economical load, try 7.0gr IMR4756 under the same bullet wt range. This is an old Skeeter Skelton load, an it is only a tad sooty.

These two loads have always shot well for me, w/ any mold maker's 158SWCs. And also w/ the "swaged " 158's, like Hornady's.

Best of luck in your endeavors !


With regards,
357Mag

 

[357Mag]

Multi -

Oops !

To be more clear:
Group pic previously sent, was shot w/ a S & W M-58..... w/ barrel bored & re-lined in .357" caliber. An M-28 cylinder was also fitted.
to make the gun a fixed-sight 4" HB "N"-frame .357Mag.

I had another similar .357Mag made, by having a 4" custom heavy /straight Douglas barrel put on a surplus NYSP S & W M-520.
These were originally manufactured w/ a 4" tapered barrel. This has been my carry gun for some years now, providing the balance of a
5" M-27 in a more-readily concealable 4" barreled gun.... w/ fixed sights.

The target records that I shot the group @ 10yd... in less than 3 sec; w/ a no-kiddin' .357Mag load
( 14.5gr WW296, SP Mag; Lyman 160gr SWC ).

The load " works ".


With regards,
357Mag

 

[bluedot]

I load for a couple of k frame 357's and like to stick to moderate loads to keep from beating on the frame to hard. I have found the following to be accurate:

357 cases
158 SWC lead- 12.5 gr 2400 win. small pistol primer
6 gr AA#5 "
5 gr Universal "

38 Special cases
158 SWC lead- 4.9 gr Universal win. small pistol primer