300PRC vs 300WSM, which has the easiest and widest tune window for hunting/light target shooting up to 1000yds and what barrel type to use?

[Gettingbetter]

Hello All,

I know this is probably beating this subject to death, but I haven’t seen enough definitive reasoning in any one thread that doesn’t morph into an “any of these is great or better than the others, if you do custom steps 1, 2, 3….”

I am looking at the possibility of a tight budget Long action platform build with a Pierce Ti action (magnum .532 bolt face) I am trading into, and using a KRG bravo chassis as the base.

I am really enamored with the Remage barrel setups and the ability to have multiple chamberings out of one gun. I am having to sell off a bunch of my rifles and associated items to help pay medical costs. I would like to condense the last of what I have left into one Centerfire target-style rifle that I can shoot from the bench and possibly prone, and even go hunt with if my spinal health improves enough and God allows me to do so.

I was thinking about a slow build for a switch-barrel setup for 6.5PRC so that I can utilize the same magnum bolt face, and have a lighter recoiling setup with a wide tuning window on factory-made brass, then switching to a 300PRC or 300WSM for longer range, heavier hitting and heavier recoiling combos. Does this seem viable or am I reaching beyond what this can be as a successful combination goal?

The KRG bravo Large action stock/chassis will work with 3.850 CIP or 3.715 magazines, so that takes care of the magazine dilemma of fitting either length cartridge loaded to best maximum COAL (300PRC or 300WSM).

Barrel choices

Thinking between a 26” and 28” barrel length.

The next question is to carbon barrel or not, and if so, whose brand and style? I have read good things about Proof barrels, but haven’t seen anything first hand. Any others to consider?
Do Carbon barrels have enough shank length to install a bug-nut setup typically? Do they have the same typical shot-count life as heavy varmint contour barrels? What is heating and accuracy like after a relatively quick succession of shots?

Or, Should I just stay within the realm of standard barrels unless I am really looking to hunt with this rifle?


.300PRC vs .300WSM tuning, brass availability, quality components

I know it is early to tell, but is the accuracy potential and tuning window about equal on the 300PRC and 300WSM?

I am not involved or don’t have time enough to get into neck-turning and anything more than an easy annealing process.

Will I still be able to get very good accuracy if my barrel is chambered and throated correctly with either 300?

What would be recommended for an “all-around” setup that will work well with factory ammo and handloads? I do handload already, so I won’t have to run factory loads only.

I know this is a lot to ask, and a long thread; I appreciate any and all answers/experiences/opinions.

Thank You in advance!

 

[Larryh128]

I have no experience with the PRC but a lot with many WSM's. I would automatically vote WSM because they are super easy to tune. Never had one that didn't shoot the same load accurately. They could all be micro-tuned to gain a smidge but all shot real well with 1 established load. Brass is also going to be easier to find also.

 

[Mike Casselton]

With that action, you won't need barrel nuts.
You can get shouldered prefits for them.

 

[Gettingbetter]

With that action, you won't need barrel nuts.
You can get shouldered prefits for them.

Ah, great point. But, on a shouldered prefit, I would still need an action wrench/barrel vise to remove and install the barrels, correct?

 

[Mike Casselton]

Yes

 

[OmegaRed]

I have a thread in my posts if you look through them. I built a 300/6.5 switch barrel

 

[Capt. Oblivious]

WSM is the easy button, its like a Dasher on juice

 

[R.Morehouse]

WSM in a long action ( Terminus Kratos ) repeater is what I am doing for my " Winter Project ". I have had a few 300 WSM's and completely agree with the " Easy Button " statement. You DO have the choice of running much lighter bullets out of the WSM out of the same barrel as the heavies or get 2 barrels throated for the bullet type you plan to shoot and forgoing the 6.5 altogether, that would keep things a bit simpler....................Best Of Luck..........Happy Shooting

Regards
Rick

 

[Ray123]

Light, target, hunting ? 1000yds or less My target rifles tend to be heavy... But for your all around rifle the 300 WSM is all you need... my choice was a 308 Winchester 22" Remington Varmint contour Bartlein in 9 twist, shoots 200 gr SMK .715 BC at 2740 fps for LR single shot, along with 208, 225, & 230 gr. ...for deer 168 berger 2900 fps out of the detachable mag. Tactical bolt knob and muzzle break 7.75 lbs without scope....your 300 WSM will be lighter, more likely to be more accurate within the 1000 limit, a little more economical to shoot, a little less recoil, and all the power ya need for anything in the lower 48...within reasonable ranges. For extreme ranges a very accurate 300 PRC have a edge....and I chose the 300 RUM over the 300 PRC with 250 ATIPS for more extreme ranges...but mostly just shoot the 308...cause it covers 95% of what I want to do, much more economically, and with excellent accuracy....your choice...and either would do.

 

[Gettingbetter]

Thanks much for all the great info shared here so far.

I think the 300WSM will be the direction I head on the .30 caliber.

I have a good shooting .308 hunting rifle already, and because this action I have will be a magnum bolt face only, that rules that great round out for this build.

What twist should I look at? If I did a 9tw 300WSM, what is the lightest bullet and lowest powder load that will accurately shoot? 165-168’s, 150’s, 130’s, etc? And a 9tw would handle up to 220’s, correct?

I like the idea of a potential single caliber/round to load for that can serve a wide variety of uses.

Now, to pick the best barrel(s) profiles and type (solid steel or carbon wrap) that will balance well in a KRG bravo (Whiskey 3 chassis forend) and Ti Long action, and decide if I go Remage or not. Then, which brand of barrel to get and how to have the chambers cut, and by whom.

I do still like the idea of not having to use a vise and wrench both, worrying about if I marr the barrel or action if I make this a switch barrel, but that may be a moot point if I just go 300wsm only.

Who typically makes the prefits for this Pierce action?

 

[Orr89rocz]

I shoot 10tw in my wsm. It shoots the 210 vld hunters and 208 long range hybrids very well. But i also can throw in factory norma 150 ballistic tips and get 1/2 moa. I want to try handloading some 168 vld. They would be deer grenades.

Wsm is nice cuz you can get norma and adg brass, two of the best imo, although i only used norma but have a box of adg in 28 nos that looks great.

Edit i guess adg also makes 300 prc now too

 

[R.Morehouse]

Thanks much for all the great info shared here so far.

I think the 300WSM will be the direction I head on the .30 caliber.

I have a good shooting .308 hunting rifle already, and because this action I have will be a magnum bolt face only, that rules that great round out for this build.

What twist should I look at? If I did a 9tw 300WSM, what is the lightest bullet and lowest powder load that will accurately shoot? 165-168’s, 150’s, 130’s, etc? And a 9tw would handle up to 220’s, correct?

I like the idea of a potential single caliber/round to load for that can serve a wide variety of uses.

Now, to pick the best barrel(s) profiles and type (solid steel or carbon wrap) that will balance well in a KRG bravo (Whiskey 3 chassis forend) and Ti Long action, and decide if I go Remage or not. Then, which brand of barrel to get and how to have the chambers cut, and by whom.

I do still like the idea of not having to use a vise and wrench both, worrying about if I marr the barrel or action if I make this a switch barrel, but that may be a moot point if I just go 300wsm only.

Who typically makes the prefits for this Pierce action?

Do a 10 twist and look at the Berger 210vld Hunting for your "heavy". That bullet is the shit for 1K BR and killing in the WSM and you will be good to go for the 130's as well..........

 

[Gettingbetter]

Thanks for that info on twist Orr89rocz and Rick!


Looks like the action likely has different than stock Remington threads, at 1 1/16 x 18 TPI threads, so I will have to get a prefit or have one threaded and installed. No Remage for this Pierce action, unless I go with bugnut who does make an 18TPI bugnut…

Talking to McGowen (for a stainless)about prefits for this action in 300WSM. I will call SPR bugnut tomorrow as well.

Any others suggested?

Any thoughts on typical barrel life if I don’t try to wring it out and don’t shoot it hot?

Any specific reamer or setup I need to have done to make sure brass won’t require neck turning?

 

[Ray123]

I run 8 and 9 twist in my last two 308s ...they shoot 130 gr Speer Varmint to 230 Atip very well ...the 8 twist 30 " likes 200 gr SMK, 200.2 Berger ,225 eldm 230 Atip.
I would select a 9 twist Bartlein 5R for a 300 WSM, short or long action depending on what you want and mag feed long 225 ELDM or 230 gr bullets at high velocities, but you may have to throat the chamber for that. And you can always single feed long bullets in a short action.
What you can do yourself, and how much money you invest in the project influences the outcome.
Barrel length is free velocity...but cumbersome for many in the hunting field.
A long action 308 Win 30" 8 twist Bartlein 5R heavy palma will feed from 30-06 detachable mags and run 200 gr SMK at 2856 fps ave 225 eldm at 2675 fps, and 230 Atips at 2620 fps. A 300 WSM will do better with the same barrel length...but go down to 24" will cost free velocity.
A short action will do the same but single feed only with long VLD type bullets, unless ya seat em deep and lose case capacity, therefore velocity.
Everything is a trade off, how light, how short, long action, short action...all depending on your main application for the rifle...occasional target & mostly hunting or the opposite. I don't neck turn unless necessary... like wildcats not standard cartridges. I order reamers so that I don't have to, measure over loaded round of brass you intend to use, add .0015 to .002 per side clearance, a little extra I hone off with a diamond hone and. 0001 test indicator.. and buy a throating reamer to extend throats if necessary. I chamber my own barrels so changing one is no big deal...I shoot zippy loads or right on the top.
But they will consume more barrel life....back to trade offs and budgets for projects. No one can tell you whats best for you advice, tips, or what I do or use may not fit your budget or needs. A 300 WSM is a very good start in a variety of configurations...one of the most efficient big 30 cal mags, add a good muzzle break and shoot it all day in comfort...

 

[Larryh128]

I shoot 10tw in my wsm. It shoots the 210 vld hunters and 208 long range hybrids very well. But i also can throw in factory norma 150 ballistic tips and get 1/2 moa. I want to try handloading some 168 vld. They would be deer grenades.

Wsm is nice cuz you can get norma and adg brass, two of the best imo, although i only used norma but have a box of adg in 28 nos that looks great.

Edit i guess adg also makes 300 prc now too

I shot 168 gr Berger VLD's for a hunting season, never again. I went to 175 gr Barnes LRX. I shot quite a few critters with the Bergers, they were either FMJ's or Varmint Grenades. When you can put a bullet thru 2 shoulder blades on a 200# buck and the exit hole is 30 cal, it's not a hunting bullet. Super accurate BUT. If you want a cup & core bullet I would go with an ELD.

 

[Orr89rocz]

I shot 168 gr Berger VLD's for a hunting season, never again. I went to 175 gr Barnes LRX. I shot quite a few critters with the Bergers, they were either FMJ's or Varmint Grenades. When you can put a bullet thru 2 shoulder blades on a 200# buck and the exit hole is 30 cal, it's not a hunting bullet. Super accurate BUT. If you want a cup & core bullet I would go with an ELD.

Interesting. I have had spectacular results with the 210’s on deer. I just figured the 168’s i could drive at 3200 and be extremely flat thru 500 yard.
The only pencil effect i ever had was with the 185 juggernaut which clearly is a tough jacket match bullet not designed to expand. We also had good result with sierra matchking 168 with a 308 on deer.

 

[Larryh128]

Interesting. I have had spectacular results with the 210’s on deer. I just figured the 168’s i could drive at 3200 and be extremely flat thru 500 yard.
The only pencil effect i ever had was with the 185 juggernaut which clearly is a tough jacket match bullet not designed to expand. We also had good result with sierra matchking 168 with a 308 on deer.

It was hit or miss. I shot a yote at about 200 yds straight on the chest sitting on its haunches and took about 6 inches of spine out of it, I hesitate to think what that would have done to a deer. A lot of guys love them BUT they were very inconsistent. These were their hunting bullet also not their match bullet. I tried a Hornaday A-tip 7mm x 166 gr as well. Total FMJ. Super accurate but definitely not a hunting bullet. They all died due to bullet placement but not what you want in a hunting bullet. The best consistent bullet for accuracy and terminal performance has been the Barnes, hands down.

 

[Hohn]

The key trade off I see is brass availability. The PRC offers Lapua brass IN STOCK as I type this from Creedmoor sports. It’s relatively popular so it’s an easier path.

However, it’s known that you need to tweak the reamer a bit per Alex Wheeler’s specs to avoid clickers.

The WSM makes finding brass a bit trickier, but so much development has been done on it that it’s sort of the easy button in terms of finding combos that work. The LR guys shooting BR or F class have it figured out. So once you do find brass, you’ll have no difficulty getting a combination of reamer and dies that will work well for you. The work’s already been done.

If you go with the PRC, you’ll have to do some of that yourself. It might be not too hard, it might prove to be a PITB. Depends on whether you enjoy the chase of load development or just want to fast forward to something proven.

 

[Gettingbetter]

At this point, going to go with the easy button 300wsm.



Don’t have the money, time, or patience to work out a new setup if the PRC is still causing issues in builds….

You are right about brass though. I can’t find 300wsm brass anywhere.

 

[INTJ]

I have shot a 300 WSM in LRBR competition and my main deer rifle is a 300 WSM. I have also developed loads for a bunch of customer 300 PRCs. Both cartridges are easy buttons and I like both.

The 300 PRC is hard to beat as a hunting cartridge. A lot of guys must agree because it is the single most common cartridge I cut chambers for. Most 300 PRCs, with a 210-220 grain bullet, like around 83 grains of N570 or 79 grains of H-1000. One liked H4831SC--I don't remember the charge. As always, start low and work up carefully.

I have seen 2900 fps for from a 300 PRC in a 22"barrel with Hornady 212 ELDXs and Berger 215s.