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280 ackley improved brass splitting

Count_points- later

I have a 280 ai custom build. I bought the nosler brass and every case but, say 5 of them split at the shoulder. Nosler said it was not there brass. ( not sure if it’s true or not) If I fire form Remington 280 shells they do not split on the first shot but I only got like 2 or 3 shots from them before they split at the neck. I’m not sure why fire forming brass that expands more does not split but the 280 ai stuff does. My first idea would be to try the nosler brass again but anneal it before I load it ?? I have not checked my head spacing yet. I very well know it could be a sizing issue? I’m trying to get some input from some of you ?? Thanks
 
Did your gunsmith use 280 Ackley Go gauge when chambering ? As mentioned above standard 280 rem case should have a crush fit . The Ackley go gauge would give about .004 crush fit with standard 280 rem brass .
Also as as mentioned the older reamers may not be the same as the new SAAMI one .
 
I just confirmed I have the SAAMI chambered in my gun . Going to check head space next. I’m just confused why brass that was made by nosler for the gun would crack at shoulder and the fire formed 280 rem did not ? As mentioned above about a chamber cast I never did that or heard of it . Again I’m new at the wild cat game
 
Well I honestly thought I had the die set properly so I would just lub and size. I’m very very new at this precision stuff and wild cat so the term of bumping them back and head spacing that’s very out of my normal. So as far as my sizing I’m not very sure how far I’m sizing my brass it very well sounds like too much from the info I’m getting on here and what I’m looking up @Bc’z
 
If your die is set according to instructions (touching the shellholder) then youre bumping way back and thats why theyre cracking. You need a comparator of some type and only bump them back enough to fit the chamber
 
Dusty Stevens said:
If your die is set according to instructions (touching the shellholder) then youre bumping way back and thats why theyre cracking. You need a comparator of some type and only bump them back enough to fit the chamber
Click to expand...

I’m sry but I’m not understanding what your telling me ?? Couldn’t I just use an unsized fireformed brass to compare after sizing one to see if I’m bumping back greater than .002
 
Count_points- later said:
I’m sry but I’m not understanding what your telling me ?? Couldn’t I just use an unsized fireformed brass to compare after sizing one to see if I’m bumping back greater than .002
Click to expand...
Yes but you need to be able to take an accurate measurement hence the comparator.
 
You should probably take it one step at a time and we’ll give you better help. Once it gets broad we lose track and go off the rails. Then you can do searches on here and read all nite. So first thing we need to know, now that we know you have a saami chamber, is what dies do you have? Will an untouched new piece of brass go in the chamber? Do you have nosler 280ai brass? What you need for that saami chamber is actual nosler 280ai brass not 280rem. You also need a current production redding 280ai die set. Rcbs may work but i cant say for sure, but i do know all too well the current redding is definitely for the saami chamber. Once we get this info we can keep moving. In the meantime you need a dial caliper and a hornady headspace comparator set. You can get this at academy or order it. Youll use this the rest of your life so dont think its a wasted expense.
 
Dusty Stevens said:
You should probably take it one step at a time and we’ll give you better help. Once it gets broad we lose track and go off the rails. Then you can do searches on here and read all nite. So first thing we need to know, now that we know you have a saami chamber, is what dies do you have? Will an untouched new piece of brass go in the chamber? Do you have nosler 280ai brass? What you need for that saami chamber is actual nosler 280ai brass not 280rem. You also need a current production redding 280ai die set. Rcbs may work but i cant say for sure, but i do know all too well the current redding is definitely for the saami chamber. Once we get this info we can keep moving. In the meantime you need a dial caliper and a hornady headspace comparator set. You can get this at academy or order it. Youll use this the rest of your life so dont think its a wasted expense.
Click to expand...

Ok this is def understandable ! I have hornady dies ! I never actually looked at the back of the shell from the box but I bought the box of nosler 280 ai brass and untouched new brass goes! My plan is to load a few rounds of nosler 280 ai brass shoot 5 or 6 rounds then start over with setting my die.
 
Count_points- later said:
Ok this is def understandable ! I have hornady dies ! I never actually looked at the back of the shell from the box but I bought the box of nosler 280 ai brass and untouched new brass goes! My plan is to load a few rounds of nosler 280 ai brass shoot 5 or 6 rounds then start over with setting my die.
Click to expand...
Ok that is a solid plan. It may take more than one or 2 firings to fill your brass out so fire them once, WITHOUT bumping your shoulder, then if they fit back in the chamber shoot them again without bumping. Do not bump until you cant close the bolt on a fired case, then thats when you need the comparator. Do not set your die to just touch the shellholder and load. You will bump them way too far and get split cases
 
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