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243 win test loads - where to go from here

tominboise

Shooting a Savage 110 sporter weight rifle in a Boyd's varmint stock, with a Rifle Basix trigger. Glass is a Nikon 6.5-20 Monarch. Playing with 85gr Sierra BTHP, H380, Rem 9-1/2M primers, new Lapua brass. Shot a series of 3 shot groups this AM:

36.5gr = 5/8" group
37.0gr = 11/16" group
37.5gr = 7/8" group
38.0gr = 15/16" group
38.5gr = 3/4" group

So pretty close to all the same performance - nothing really outstanding. Would you rerun the same charge weights but with 5 shot groups? Play with jump distance? Change something else?
 
It really helps to know your velocity. It helps you find nodes where the powder charge has room on either side as well as essential for knowing your ballistic data for shots at varying differences. Magneto speed sporters are real affordable right now and give you the data you need.

There are a lot of methods to fine tune your testing. I like the process from 6.5 guys. They have several videos posted on youtube

Berger describes a bullet seating test method that will help you quickly find the area to fine tune for seating depth. They advise it will be obvious when you see the groups. For me it was a one hole cluster when I hit .040 jump vs 0, .080, and .120.
The berger document is here: https://bergerbullets.com/getting-the-best-precision-and-accuracy-from-vld-bullets-in-your-rifle/

The test method usually works even if you aren't shooting VLDs. Note the difference between hunting and competition rifles with respect to jammed bullets. It will spare you cleaning up a mess if a bullet that is jammed stays in the barrel if you have to unload the rifle for some reason.

Good luck
 
Jump them 25 thou. If they won't shoot there, it is not the seating depth. They will shoot at 25 jump, at least the seating depth will not be holding you back. Try R16 or r23.
 
Try my load # 167, under .243 Loads,.. Both, the Berger 87 gr HVLD's and the CHEAPER Hornady 87 gr. V-Maxes, shot UNDER 1/2 MOA in my, 1-10 Twist, T-3 SS Sporter bbl'd, Tikka. VhitaVouri's N-160, with those 87 grain Bullets, "shoot" and N-160 is,.. a "COOL", easy on barrel, Powder ! BC's are, .400 +
Possibly, YOUR Barrel doesn't like, THOSE Bullets or, something could be wrong with, the Rifle ( Check for, Screw tightness, Free Floating "clearance", GOOD bbl Cleaning and Bedding of, Action ). And IF, Bullets ARE,. "straight" in the Case ( low TIR on, bullet "runout" ) I use only Forster Dies, anymore ! PS; I'm NOT a fan of, H-380 in the .243 Win. ( or, Rem primers) DO like, Fed Match and CCI 200 primers. Good luck !
 
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5/8" is a tad over 1/2" which is pretty darn good for a factory sporter weight rifle.

Typically the 243 cartridge is not chosen for target shooting because of barrel wear issues and there are better choices for strictly target shooting. However, it can shine as an all purpose hunting cartridge for both deer size game and varmints/predators. I used it as a one gun hunter for many years in the late 60's and into the 70's. I never found it lacking for this purpose. While I shoot other calibers these days I still have four 243's that I shoot.

If you're committed to H380 powder, I would shoot a couple more 5 shot groups with this load (36.5) to get a better I idea the load's capability. One of the problems with the 243 is if you get into extensive load development trying to squeeze another .1 or .2 reduction is group size by the time you get there the barrel will be shot out at least for target shooting purposes. It will probably have many more rounds of barrel life remaining for hunting applications.

I've used this bullet (i.e. 85 Sierra BTHP) for many years and I found it to be very accurate and an excellent all purpose bullet for the 243. However I've had my best results with IMR 4064 with this bullet. IMR 4350 also worked quite well for me. The problem I've had with H380 is pressure surges in hot weather and inconsistency with temperature changes.
 
G Liles said:
Is this a factory barrel?
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K22 said:
5/8" is a tad over 1/2" which is pretty darn good for a factory sporter weight rifle.

Typically the 243 cartridge is not chosen for target shooting because of barrel wear issues and there are better choices for strictly target shooting. However, it can shine as an all purpose hunting cartridge for both deer size game and varmints/predators. I used it as a one gun hunter for many years in the late 60's and into the 70's. I never found it lacking for this purpose. While I shoot other calibers these days I still have four 243's that I shoot.

If you're committed to H380 powder, I would shoot a couple more 5 shot groups with this load (36.5) to get a better I idea the load's capability. One of the problems with the 243 is if you get into extensive load development trying to squeeze another .1 or .2 reduction is group size by the time you get there the barrel will be shot out at least for target shooting purposes. It will probably have many more rounds of barrel life remaining for hunting applications.

I've used this bullet (i.e. 85 Sierra BTHP) for many years and I found it to be very accurate and an excellent all purpose bullet for the 243. However I've had my best results with IMR 4064 with this bullet. IMR 4350 also worked quite well for me. The problem I've had with H380 is pressure surges in hot weather and inconsistency with temperature changes.
Click to expand...
OP,.. Read, the last line of, THIS Post ! H-380 is NOT good in, the Summers HEAT of, Boise, Id. ! Try, IMR 4350 and CCI primers as they shoot TINY with, the 80 gr Sierra BTSP's, # 1515, in MY Tikka .243 ( K-22 is, a .243 Expert and, I listen to, him ) IF, you don't want to, "mess" with, the New, Temp Stable, "Cold Burning", N-160, the MIRACLE .243 Win Wonder, Powder ! PS; the Berger 87 HVLD's ( tho Expensive ) Will blow your Socks off with their, Accuracy ! And IF you like the convience of Ball Powders, TRY some,. Temp Stable,. StaBall 65.
 
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Lots of good comments - I appreciate them. The barrel is the factory sporter weight Savage.

Some history on this rifle and what I am doing - I ended up with this rifle after a convoluted three tier trade, but I am in it for not much money at the end of the day. It has an unknown round count. It came in the Boyd stock and with a Tasco scope in a Ded nutz mount. I shot a few groups with it just to see and it showed a little promise, so I replaced the trigger (it was pre accutrigger) and put on the Nikon glass on an EGW mount with Burris Signature rings. My thoughts were to see if I could get it shooting decently and perhaps use it for rockchucks and other longer range varmints here in Idaho. Or get a take off stock and turn it into a coyote and deer rifle. Or teach myself how to rebarrel a Savage rifle.

I am using H380 as I have a few pounds of it and I'd like to get rid of it. Ditto with the Remington primers. I have a few powder choices but they are mostly slow burners for my big game rifles, like RL22, RL25, H4350, H4831, AA2520 and H414, or faster stuff for the varmint cartridges like RL7 and 10X. Maybe I should go to a slower burning powder like H4350....

I have bore scoped the barrel and it's got a lot of tooling marks in it. The throat is OK. It had a really bad carbon ring which I have been working on and is mostly cleaned up. I have tried the 68gr Barnes match burner and 95gr Sierra BTHP prior to the current 85gr Sierra. They have all shot about the same, which is under an inch for 3 shots, sometimes well under, but starts to spread some at 5 shots. Also quite a few groups with 2 touching and one out, or 4 touching and one out.

Success in this case would be 5 shots in .5 MOA on a semi repeatable basis. It's a learning experience.

Personal history - I am 60 years old and started reloading in 1972, but have spent most of my time loading for hunting and varmint rifles. Along with handguns, etc.
 
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LOL,. I understand the Shoot, the "Old Stuff up" THEORY !! DO IT,. myself ( sometimes ! ). Might try, Lapping / Polishing, the Bore with, some JB's slathered on, a Patch over, a Bronze Brush to "smooth out" the rough barrel ( 10 -12 "Strokes" ONE way, only and clean thoroughly with, Alcohol / dry patches, and NO Oil to Polish up, the bore a bit. Smooth bbl's "hold" onto, LESS Copper Fouling ! I do this to, ALL my New Factory, Barrels. Good luck and have FUN ! As stated, by K-22, I'd stay with, the 36.5 grain 5/8" Load, in THIS, Heat ( might move, the Bullet "closer" to, the Lands, tho ) That's NOT,..a "bad" Sporter bbl, Group !
 
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I would pillar bed the stock , I wouldn’t shoot 5 shot groups 3 is good with a factory sporter.
 
If you're shooting rapid fire strings in hot weather expect some "opening" of the group at shots 3-4 and beyond especially in an over bore cartridge like the 243 Win. in a sporter weight barrel.

I've found an effective way to evaluate a load / rifle capability is to shoot slow strings of five shots allowing the barrel to cool between shots. This works for me because this is the way that I use the rifle. The vast majority of time it's the cold barrel shot that has the most significance for me since I'm primarily a varmint / predator / deer hunter. I hunt eastern ground hogs, coyotes, and white tail deer so rarely to I get two consecutive shots and then only two at the most. So most of the time the "money" shot is the cold barrel shot.

Another method I've used is to place a duplicate target behind the target I'm shooting strings on and change after the first cold barrel shot. Over a series of ranges sessions I'll have composite record of cold barrel shots which gives me a more accurate idea of what the load / rifle will do in the field.

Good luck and shooting.
 
tominboise said:
I ordered up some 4064 to give it a try. Seems like a versatile powder in any case, so good to add to the stash LOL...
Click to expand...


My favorite powder. I shoot it in .223, 220 swift, 308 and 30-06! It don’t meter very well, but I weigh all my charges anyway.
 
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