243 to 22-243

[RickRusty]

I'm thinking I might want to re-barrel my 243 to a 22.

How many steps would be required to neck a 243 down to the 22 caliber?

What do I have to do to find a die for that?

 

[13red56]

Only takes one step to size the brass down. I'd get a Redding 243 win Bushing Die and use the correct bushing to size down.

 

[Sniper338]

22BR is what id do personally.


But like the abive post stated.. or have dies made...

 

[JamesnTN]

You can use the same 243 dies if they are bushing dies for sizing and change out the bushing. The seater die will need be changed out for a 22 though.
Also you'll need a new barrel

 

[RickRusty]

Got the barrel need. Would be a bit sloppy.

Why the BR?

 

[JamesnTN]

Got the barrel need. Would be a bit sloppy.

Why the BR?

The BR would be more consistent is one reason. I have a 22-243 and it'll shoot lights out with 80 grain Sierra bullets at 3650 fps but give a 20* temp swing and you're back to tuning

 

[Sniper338]

Got the barrel need. Would be a bit sloppy.

Why the BR?

Read the 22BR section on the home page

 

[Sniper338]

Or 22 dasher if you want a little different..

 

[Phil]

What are you using it for?????

I have a buddy that has a 22-243AI and LOVES IT!!!!!!

His is a coyote gun FWTW......

Phil.

 

[fredo]

To agree with the above, a Redding .243 Type S bushing die with a .251 bushing will get you in the ballpark, if runnin' Lapua brass. OR, get a set of .22-243Win dies and rock on. (I prefer the former to control tension & use .251 bushing for Lapua brass)

FYI, depending on your bullet choice, a .243 seater might work. IF not, a quick swap of the seater plug will be in order. I've seated 75-80gr bullets for .22-243Win with an unmodified .243 seater, and .22-243AI with unmodified .243AI seater...

Enjoy, the .22-243 is a turn key badazz!

 

[fguffey]

What do I have to do to find a die for that?

http://www.rcbs.com/RCBS/media/RCBSMedia/PDFs/Parts/2014_SPECIAL_ORDER.pdf

Page 2: 2 die set 56049 group G for $150.00 plus a little.

When going from 243 to 22-243 the shoulder on the 22-243 is 30 degree and the 243 is 20 degree meaning the neck is sized down and the shoulder angle of the shoulder is changed. I would try to use the 22-243 die before going into the forming die sets. The forming die set for going from 243 to 22-243 # is 58045 and cost $175.95 + a little.

F. Guffey

 

[fredo]

http://www.rcbs.com/RCBS/media/RCBSMedia/PDFs/Parts/2014_SPECIAL_ORDER.pdf

Page 2: 2 die set 56049 group G for $150.00 plus a little.

When going from 243 to 22-243 the shoulder on the 22-243 is 30 degree and the 243 is 20 degree meaning the neck is sized down and the shoulder angle of the shoulder is changed. I would try to use the 22-243 die before going into the forming die sets. The forming die set for going from 243 to 22-243 # is 58045 and cost $175.95 + a little.

F. Guffey

The above is incorrect
That die set # is for .22-243WINCHESTER which indeed has a 20° shoulder

OP was NOT asking about a .22-243Middlested, which has a 30° shoulder

Since OP was asking about a .22-243 & didn't specifiy "Middlested" that has a 30° shoulder, the method for brass building is a simple necking down of .243Win parent case. And done so exactly as stated above. IE, after necking down parent case, the existing shoulder angle remains the same @ 20°. That is a .22-243Winchester...

Reference pic: .22-243Win (left) and .22-243AI (Improved 40°) right

Things are only as difficult as one wishes to make them.
The .22-243Win is easy peasy, load & shoot badazzery. No fuss, no muss, no forming...just run 'em thru a bushing die & get after it! Just keep your case trimmer pilot set up @ .224"...

 

[hdxr750]

Well a 22 CHeetha is a real screamer. I have built a Few, with great success. If your interested I have a reamer . 304-639-4626 from 10:30am till 9:30 pm. I don't want to Build it but I'll help you. Randy Miller

 

[RickRusty]

WOW great ideas. Thanks guys. I thought it would make a fun Yote gun that wouldn't go through them. I think I'd like to seat 50 gr +/-. The 55 gr was marginal in the 243. Can't get enough neck to hold the bullet comfortably.

 

[Brians356]

Unless you're bent on reusing all your 243 cases, I'd go with a 22-250 AI. It's somewhat less overbore than the 22-243, and premium 22-250 brass is plentiful.
-

 

[TAJ45]

Unless you're bent on reusing all your 243 cases, I'd go with a 22-250 AI. It's somewhat less overbore than the 22-243, and premium 22-250 brass is plentiful.
-

^^ What he said in spades. W/O consulting my loading manuals in the shop bldg, you will be running a LOT less powder - in the 20% range, therefore better bbl life and not give up significant velocity or be worried about pills that go poof.

 

[RickRusty]

Ok convinced. I'll examine the 22-250 AI. Thanks for the input.

 

[stacy]

22 BR OR 22 DASHER HAVE SEVERAL FOR WHAT THEY ARE THERE HARD TOO BEAT NO OVERBORE TO WORRY ABOUT AND VERY ACCURATE!

 

[fredo]

WOW great ideas. Thanks guys. I thought it would make a fun Yote gun that wouldn't go through them. I think I'd like to seat 50 gr +/-. The 55 gr was marginal in the 243. Can't get enough neck to hold the bullet comfortably.

If you want to stay with that 50-55gr bullet weight, a .22-250AI is fine. 55gr N B-tip @ 4000 is a proven winner, that 55 can handle the RPMs...

IMHO, the gains from larger .243 & 6mm based wildcats are more easily enjoyed with heavier bullets.

I'm building a 1:12 twist .22-243AI to experiment throwing 60JLKs at warp speed. If I can't get the 60s to perform in the 4100+ fps range, then I'll just stick with my 1:8twist w/ 75-80gr @ 3600. That combo is a tough act to follow!

Good luck & have fun!

 

[Webster]

I'm thinking I might want to re-barrel my 243 to a 22.

How many steps would be required to neck a 243 down to the 22 caliber?

What do I have to do to find a die for that?

243 is a barrel burner. 22-243 is worse.