Need help with the procedures on how to form my Lapua brass into usable 22BR cases without wasting them expensive things. My gun has a tight neck,.242) and cases require turning. I have NO idea of what procedure/dies are required to obtain the finished cases. Sure would appreciate it if one of you fellas can put me onto the right path. I have posted this site before, but not too smart with these computers, so please bear with me. Only die I got was a Wilson bushing die for the neck, and one for setting the bullets. Help fellas!!
22BR forming, tight neck
- Thread starter CrowKLR
- Start date
The neck die wont be much good as it will only size half the neck. I am shooting a .243 neck 22BR and the only die I have doesnt have sizing bushes in it, so it sizes the whole neck each time. What I used 1st time was a Hornady generic neck sizer, which has an oversized body to be used with any case, and a straight .240" neck size section. Where abouts are you?
Crow,
You will need a regular full lenght sizing die.
Do the math and turn the necks before you down size the necks.
At least get them close to the size for your tight neck.
You can do the last few tenthousandths after down sizing.
I have a 22BR with a .248 neck and fun to shoot. My smith chambered the the little barrel stump and is handy for double checking losded rounds.
You will need a regular full lenght sizing die.
Do the math and turn the necks before you down size the necks.
At least get them close to the size for your tight neck.
You can do the last few tenthousandths after down sizing.
I have a 22BR with a .248 neck and fun to shoot. My smith chambered the the little barrel stump and is handy for double checking losded rounds.
Preacher
Gold $$ Contributor
A regular Full length 22br sizing die will not neck down a neck turned to .242 case, you need to neck them down first with a 22BR Full Length die, and then turn the case necks for your chamber..
You'll also need a FL die sooner or later, preferably with a bushing, or reamed to your brass neck. You can get by with the Wilson neck die for a few times, or more if your on the slow side, but run em fast as they like to be, and you'll need the FL die or they will be very hard to chamber..
You'll also need a FL die sooner or later, preferably with a bushing, or reamed to your brass neck. You can get by with the Wilson neck die for a few times, or more if your on the slow side, but run em fast as they like to be, and you'll need the FL die or they will be very hard to chamber..
Here’s how I do my 22BRs:
1) Full length size 6BR brass with Imperial wax and a 22BR FL die that has no deprimer rod or expander button in it. Set the die so it just touches the shoulder. You don’t want to be bumping the shoulder of your new cases back a couple thousands. But you want to be touching it for uniformity.
2) Trim to uniform length with a fast trimmer. I use an old Lyman Universal with a drill. I save the more accurate and straight Wilson trim till after the first firing.
3) Chamfer and debur the case mouths.
4) Lube the inside case mouths very lightly with a QTip and Imperial wax. Then before sizing with the expander mandrel, dip the case mouth into a cap with Ballistol in it and size it with the expander mandrel.
5) I set the cutting depth on my Sinclair neck turning tool with an old case that is close to the neck thickness I want. I’ll be making 2 cuts so the first cut is just under a thousand or so from where I want to finish. You may want to make 3 cuts being it’s your first go at it and the large amount of brass you’ll be taking off. You’ll need a tubing mic to measure with. I like to use a 40 degree cutter so as not to cut into the shoulder too much on the BR case and set the turning mandrel so the case mouth bottoms out with the cutter just starting to touch the shoulder. That’s why they all have to be the same length. If you sorted for weight, use the off cases first. That way you won’t be ruining a good case if something goes wrong.
6) While the next case sits with the expander mandrel inside it I turn the just expanded case with an electric drill that has a half inch chuck. Be careful as some drills will mark up the case if the chuck is not tight on the case. Also run the drill slowly. You don’t want to overheat the case or cutter mandrel. I’ll clamp my cutter onto the table or hold it in a vice that has a scrap basket under it to make cleanup easier.
7) Once they’re all done full length size again. Expand as above. But this time turn to desired thickness using the hand turning handle. No drill. Slow hand turning will take them to a much more consistent thickness than the drill did. In your case with a .242†neck I’d go to under .0085†but no more than .008â€. I had a .243 necked 22BR and you’ll always have to be careful not to dent those skinny case mouths. Especially if you’ll be using a bushing die without an expander to size them. My present reamer is a .249†and I think I could have gone to .250†and still got a total cleanup on any lot of Lapua brass.
8) Now I rinse them with alcohol and then water and let them dry completely inside and out.
9) Load them up with a full charge.
10) This is a good time, with a bullet inside them to check and sort them by neck thickness using a regular mic. Be sure to turn them while measuring to see how uniform the thickness is all the way around. I’ve read some very interesting discussions on how important uniform and consistent thickness is and all I’ve been able to take away from it is that consistency and uniformity can’t hurt. So take as much time and effort as you’re comfortable with.
11) After firing I’ll use the Wilson case trimmer to uniform to length and debur them. And use a Hart primer pocket uniformer to clean and uniform the pocket.
Good luck and welcome to the 22BR.
1) Full length size 6BR brass with Imperial wax and a 22BR FL die that has no deprimer rod or expander button in it. Set the die so it just touches the shoulder. You don’t want to be bumping the shoulder of your new cases back a couple thousands. But you want to be touching it for uniformity.
2) Trim to uniform length with a fast trimmer. I use an old Lyman Universal with a drill. I save the more accurate and straight Wilson trim till after the first firing.
3) Chamfer and debur the case mouths.
4) Lube the inside case mouths very lightly with a QTip and Imperial wax. Then before sizing with the expander mandrel, dip the case mouth into a cap with Ballistol in it and size it with the expander mandrel.
5) I set the cutting depth on my Sinclair neck turning tool with an old case that is close to the neck thickness I want. I’ll be making 2 cuts so the first cut is just under a thousand or so from where I want to finish. You may want to make 3 cuts being it’s your first go at it and the large amount of brass you’ll be taking off. You’ll need a tubing mic to measure with. I like to use a 40 degree cutter so as not to cut into the shoulder too much on the BR case and set the turning mandrel so the case mouth bottoms out with the cutter just starting to touch the shoulder. That’s why they all have to be the same length. If you sorted for weight, use the off cases first. That way you won’t be ruining a good case if something goes wrong.
6) While the next case sits with the expander mandrel inside it I turn the just expanded case with an electric drill that has a half inch chuck. Be careful as some drills will mark up the case if the chuck is not tight on the case. Also run the drill slowly. You don’t want to overheat the case or cutter mandrel. I’ll clamp my cutter onto the table or hold it in a vice that has a scrap basket under it to make cleanup easier.
7) Once they’re all done full length size again. Expand as above. But this time turn to desired thickness using the hand turning handle. No drill. Slow hand turning will take them to a much more consistent thickness than the drill did. In your case with a .242†neck I’d go to under .0085†but no more than .008â€. I had a .243 necked 22BR and you’ll always have to be careful not to dent those skinny case mouths. Especially if you’ll be using a bushing die without an expander to size them. My present reamer is a .249†and I think I could have gone to .250†and still got a total cleanup on any lot of Lapua brass.
8) Now I rinse them with alcohol and then water and let them dry completely inside and out.
9) Load them up with a full charge.
10) This is a good time, with a bullet inside them to check and sort them by neck thickness using a regular mic. Be sure to turn them while measuring to see how uniform the thickness is all the way around. I’ve read some very interesting discussions on how important uniform and consistent thickness is and all I’ve been able to take away from it is that consistency and uniformity can’t hurt. So take as much time and effort as you’re comfortable with.
11) After firing I’ll use the Wilson case trimmer to uniform to length and debur them. And use a Hart primer pocket uniformer to clean and uniform the pocket.
Good luck and welcome to the 22BR.
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