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.223 Brass Resizing

I don't know. But I know that some people insist it must be done EVERY time while others say wait as long as possible; until you can't chamber your reloads and then do it.
 
Generally speaking, for a .223 bolt action, how often do you need to use full length resizing?
I think it depends on the brass you are using, I shoot a .223 bolt gun in competition with Lapua brass and I didn't FL size all last year and I haven't done it yet this year. I use a collet die only.
 
Generally speaking, for a .223 bolt action, how often do you need to use full length resizing?

I don't... haven't needed to, and I am well past 20 reloads - I anneal every 5 firings.

With my 222 Mag bench rifle (circa 1975) I didn't even own a FL die until 3 years ago, then someone gave me ~ 200 cases that wouldn't chamber. Used it once to size those cases.
 
I bump the shoulder back .002 with a Redding body only die after every firing and neck size with a Lee collet die. I feel better knowing that all of my brass are sized the same but I don't have any evidence that accuracy improved from when I was neck sizing only.
 
I bump the shoulder back .002 with a Redding body only die after every firing and neck size with a Lee collet die. I feel better knowing that all of my brass are sized the same but I don't have any evidence that accuracy improved from when I was neck sizing only.

Bump the shoulder back .002” relative to what?

So that the shoulder bumped case ends up .002” shorter than the fired case’s head to shoulder datum length, or,

so that it’ll end up .002” shorter than the distance from the bolt face to the chamber’s shoulder datum, aka, that case chambered will result in .002” of headspace?
 
Instead of using a set number of cycles I routinely measure the headspace on a few brass from a loading batch to dictate. As long as I measure .001" to .003" clearance they are simply run through the Lee collect neck die. Over the Winter it was time to fl size and trim after 5 to 6 firings. At that time I purchased an annealer which I used for the first time on those brass, then followed by the LCND. Now I anneal every time and neck size, and will monitor headspace to learn when its time to fl size again.
 
I eliminated flyers by annealing and full length resizing every time. I push the shoulder back .001 and the bolt drops free on a sized case. With out annealing I had problems with cases that would chamber when first sized but not chamber or chambered hard after they sat on the shelf for a few months. It seems that annealing takes the "memory" out of the brass.

That's my experience
 
Jammer,
If you compete and believe in "CONSISTENCY" in your reloading practices, resize EVERY TIME to get the brass as identical as possible. Otherwise you get a variety of sizes and you are "HOPING" and "guessing" they're the same or as close as possibly. And yes I'm aware .223 brass doesn't change all that much in a dedicated bolt gun chamber. But competition is a game of accuracy and consistency. Not really a good practice NOT to resize each time when competing because the rest of the line is FL resizing their brass after every shooting. And that includes Lapua brass that I use exclusively in several calibers. Just my take.

Alex
 
To me 50,000+ psi has made each piece of brass, fired in MY chamber, as close (identical) to each other as possible. I am not going to arbitrarily 'bump' anything anywhere. If the case does not chamber then it is time. In my 222Rem (over 35 reloads) I'm still waiting for that time. I wouldn't say my loads are 'hot' (no clear definition) but they are on the upper end of older reloading manuals.
 
I bump the shoulder back .002 with a Redding body only die after every firing and neck size with a Lee collet die. I feel better knowing that all of my brass are sized the same but I don't have any evidence that accuracy improved from when I was neck sizing only.


If you "bump" the shoulder with a Redding body die, you are full length sizing the cases every time - the Redding body die is a FL die, with an over size neck.

If you really want to "bump" the shoulder (only) then get a Forster Bump die - it does not touch the body, and eliminates case stretch.
 
If you "bump" the shoulder with a Redding body die, you are full length sizing the cases every time - the Redding body die is a FL die, with an over size neck.

If you really want to "bump" the shoulder (only) then get a Forster Bump die - it does not touch the body, and eliminates case stretch.


Agreed! It is full length sizing and I simply use the amount of shoulder bump back as a way to set up the die consistently.
 
For my AR-15 Match Rifle I full length size every time. For my 223 Mid Range Bolt Gun I have had good results with the Forester Shoulder Bump Neck Size Die. The same with my 308 F-TR long range rifle. If I have any chambering issues after using the Forester I would use a Redding Body Die.
 

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