223\556 reloading

[bulldurham]

I have regular rcbs 223 dies and want to start loading for ar15 do I need the small base die and do I need to crimp? And which dies do you use thanks

 

[6Creed73]

I only use a small base die when I size range brass that wasn't fired in my rifle and only the first sizing. After that first sizing with the small base die, I use a standard FL die every other time.

I crimp my AR loads with the Lee FCD, but decent neck tension will be fine if you don't want to add a step.

 

[padom]

I used a Forster FL Sizing die for the past 15yr+ and never needed a small base die for 5.56 brass to fire in my AR's.. I also never crimped a round or found any need to.. Neck tension from the Forster FL sizing die was always sufficient...

 

[Coyotefurharvester]

I only use a standard RCBS 223 fl sizer, I do pickup range brass but only after carbine classes that require new ammo. Than I know it's once fired, NO automatic fire. Any brass that doesn't drop fit my Lyman ammo checker after sizing (1 or 2 out of a 100) goes in the scrap brass pail. Crimp only my emergency street ammo, my mandrel expander is modified about 0.0035 under bullet diameter. Haven't had an issue with bullet movement on my prairie dog/hunting ammo without a crimp.

 

[pilediver]

I load my AR 15 ammo on a Dillon 550 with Dillon steel dies, I don't find it necessary to crimp as the neck tension alone is sufficient.
I have never needed a small base die for any reason.
I use some range pickup brass, it all gets wet tumbled first. I lube and resize and deprime and if a case seems like it is taking too much force on the press handle I stop and pitch that piece of brass, it probably got fired in a loose chamber and I don't want it. This also applies to doing brass for an AR 10 in 308.
I have Dillon case gauges but now everything gets checked and adjusted based on case comparator

 

[Kracken McGraw]

I lube and resize and deprime and if a case seems like it is taking too much force on the press handle I stop and pitch that piece of brass,

That’s a good piece of advice to share.

 

[Bill K]

You will only need a SB die if you start having your brass hangup and not fully lock into battery.
Crimp not needed for general shooting/plinking most often.

 

[JB10]

I have picked up thousands of range brass. I full length resize and do my normal prepping and load. Never have crimped and have never had the need.

 

[243winxb]

Check neck tension/bullet hold. Measure outside diameter of sized necks, before & after bullet seating.
The OD should expand by .002" minimum, for good bullet hold.

My 2 sets of standard RCBS dies do this. No crimp. A set from the 1970s & a set about 3 years old.

Have loaded M16, Mini14, AR180 & rifle/pistols.

Different brass= Different results. Test it.

https://www.sierrabullets.com/reload-basics/reloading-for-semi-autos-and-service-rifles/

 

[RabbitSlayer]

I have never had a failure with my 556 or 204 AR with normal dies. I don't mess with range pickup though. I run a mandrel for .002 interference fit, so probably a bit more after spring back. 20 rd mag and the last group can easily be the best one. Unless war is on your agenda, I wouldn't bother with crimping. However, don't run any lighter neck tension for hunting. Might consider more neck tension if your ammo is getting beat to death living in your hunting rig or something.

 

[C.E.Smith043]

My advice is to measure your brass and try it. I have RCBS dies, RCBS Small Base dies, Lee Dies, Dillon Dies, Redding Dies. All 223. And, believe it or not, the Dillon set reduces the brass more so than any of the others.

 

[Oso]

With the exception of special purpose loads, I use Range Brass without concern with my AR15's. I do a lot of QC on the range brass and easily discard 20% of the cases. All of the upfront work sorting cases greatly reduces any issues, and it doesn't take that much effort.

Conventional wisdom is that If a case requires a small base die then it will continue to require a small base die for all future resizings. As memory serves there have been some metallurgical articles posted in threads that indicated the amount of deformation required to erase/break the case's existing fire-formed shape (overcome its metal memory) is greater than the amount of sizing generated by a small base sizing die. Based on this, I decided to toss any cases that are difficult during FL Sizing. I may have terms confused but you get the idea...

I don't crimp my ammo, but rather rely on neck tension. With 2.26" mag length restriction, bullets are seated plenty deep (lots of bearing surface contact between bullet and case neck). For years I used Hornady Die set with good results. I have shifted to using a combination of FL Sizing Die (with expander ball/plunger removed) and an Expander Die & Mandrel to set my neck tension (.003" - .004").

During the sizing process, I randomly select resized cases and check their dimensions with a Wilson case gage. While loading the cases I still random test the loaded cartridges with the case gage. Belt & Suspenders. You want/need a case gage to quickly and easily identify any issues... shoulder bumped, case length, swelling in case base, and any issues with rim. I find this tool invaluable.

 

[Timberyote]

I use SB dies (.223 & .308) every loading without feed issues nor accuracy issues.

I did a test with AR and one of my .308's and found no difference in accuracy.

YMMV.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

With the exception of special purpose loads, I use Range Brass without concern with my AR15's. I do a lot of QC on the range brass and easily discard 20% of the cases. All of the upfront work sorting cases greatly reduces any issues, and it doesn't take that much effort.

Conventional wisdom is that If a case requires a small base die then it will continue to require a small base die for all future resizings. As memory serves there have been some metallurgical articles posted in threads that indicated the amount of deformation required to erase/break the case's existing fire-formed shape (overcome its metal memory) is greater than the amount of sizing generated by a small base sizing die. Based on this, I decided to toss any cases that are difficult during FL Sizing. I may have terms confused but you get the idea...

I don't crimp my ammo, but rather rely on neck tension. With 2.26" mag length restriction, bullets are seated plenty deep (lots of bearing surface contact between bullet and case neck). For years I used Hornady Die set with good results. I have shifted to using a combination of FL Sizing Die (with expander ball/plunger removed) and an Expander Die & Mandrel to set my neck tension (.003" - .004").

During the sizing process, I randomly select resized cases and check their dimensions with a Wilson case gage. While loading the cases I still random test the loaded cartridges with the case gage. Belt & Suspenders. You want/need a case gage to quickly and easily identify any issues... shoulder bumped, case length, swelling in case base, and any issues with rim. I find this tool invaluable.

You have got me to thinking about something else that might help to check out of speck fired brass. Redding trim dies will accept fired brass without being sized to trim them, unlike the rcbs ones. I have one for 308 Win, and need to find one for 223 since you brought this up. Here is a pic of a fired 308 case in one.

 

[bulldurham]

I have the rcbs trim die . also I have alot of range brass that have been picked up to tumbled will be shooting out of multiple rifles . so using my standard rcbs dies should be ok to use no crimp . if trimmed and sized with no flaws in brass .

 

[Kracken McGraw]

I have the rcbs trim die . also I have alot of range brass that have been picked up to tumbled will be shooting out of multiple rifles . so using my standard rcbs dies should be ok to use no crimp . if trimmed and sized with no flaws in brass .

Yes but referring to my post above the rcbs trim die will act like a sizer and will require lube and a press, where on the Redding a fired case can be pulled in and out by hand.

 

[Doug Casner]

I use whatever Dillon puts in their 550s with a little crimp. A little crimp dont hurt accuracy. I always thought that a little crimp gave you more consistence bullet pull. Doug

 

[markm87]

I use whatever Dillon puts in their 550s with a little crimp. A little crimp dont hurt accuracy. I always thought that a little crimp gave you more consistence bullet pull. Doug

That's what I do since I have too much 223 brass to anneal. Light factory crimp die for all my 223 ammo.

 

[divingin]

I have regular rcbs 223 dies and want to start loading for ar15 do I need the small base die and do I need to crimp? And which dies do you use thanks

No and probably not.

To explain a bit more, you only need a small base die if you have problems with the body of the case being blown out too much. Generally a normal die will suffice (some military fired brass may need a small base die - I generally toss that stuff.)

Mechanically, you only need a crimp if you have problems with bullets moving from recoil while in the magazine (unlikely) or when slamming into the feed ramp on chambering (more likely, and there is some debate as to how much movement is too much, etc.) Personally, I see more problems caused by crimping than not crimping (not crimping: movement of the bullet prior to firing; crimping: bulged/crushed cases from over-crimping, inconsistent crimping from not trimming, etc.)

Non-mechanically, if you use a slower than recommended powder (or a harder to ignite powder) you may want to crimp to steepen the initial pressure curve so as to ensure good ignition.

 

[6MMsteve]

powder load accordingly make sure your load is enough to function well, I load mine on the high side,