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22 br

sirs,
how do you go about forming your br cases out of 6 mm br cases?
what are you chambers set up for as neck clearance?
gary b
 
I use a no turn neck. To form cases, I anneal new Lapua 6 6br brass. Run them up in a custom form die I made with the chamber reamer. Then run them up in my FL bushing die. Load and shoot. A standard FL die will work as mentioned above too...
 
ridgeway said:
I use a no turn neck. To form cases, I anneal new Lapua 6 6br brass. Run them up in a custom form die I made with the chamber reamer. Then run them up in my FL bushing die. Load and shoot. A standard FL die will work as mentioned above too...

Why do you anneal new already annealed Lapua brass?
 
22DASHER said:
ridgeway said:
I use a no turn neck. To form cases, I anneal new Lapua 6 6br brass. Run them up in a custom form die I made with the chamber reamer. Then run them up in my FL bushing die. Load and shoot. A standard FL die will work as mentioned above too...

Why do you anneal new already annealed Lapua brass?
I am not so sure it is annealed from the factory. Annealing seems to make cases form much easier and nicer including Dasher cases.
 
ridgeway said:
22DASHER said:
ridgeway said:
I use a no turn neck. To form cases, I anneal new Lapua 6 6br brass. Run them up in a custom form die I made with the chamber reamer. Then run them up in my FL bushing die. Load and shoot. A standard FL die will work as mentioned above too...
Why do you anneal new already annealed Lapua brass?
I am not so sure it is annealed from the factory. Annealing seems to make cases form much easier and nicer including Dasher cases.

Check out the last sentence under the "Neck" heading...

 
LOL, I'm not here to argue...they claim they are annealed, but sure don't seem like it when working with the brass. I simply stated what I do and if it is annealed, well then it gets annealed again. Won't hurt one bit.
 
I have found the Lapua necks to seem harder than other brass, even though they are factory annealed. This makes forming down to 22 BR more difficult and I have had issues collapsing shoulders when forming. I have not had this issue with Remington 6BR brass. I think the Lapua is not only harder, but also necks are thicker.Both shoot well in my 22BR, but the Remington is easier to form. I have a no turn chamber, but I still clean up o.d. of necks for concentricity. Good Luck, it is a great cartridge.
 
22DASHER said:
ridgeway said:
I use a no turn neck. To form cases, I anneal new Lapua 6 6br brass. Run them up in a custom form die I made with the chamber reamer. Then run them up in my FL bushing die. Load and shoot. A standard FL die will work as mentioned above too...

Why do you anneal new already annealed Lapua brass?

All factory brass is annealed.

American makers just polish off the colours before loading or packaging it.
 
th82457 said:
I have found the Lapua necks to seem harder than other brass, even though they are factory annealed. This makes forming down to 22 BR more difficult and I have had issues collapsing shoulders when forming. I have not had this issue with Remington 6BR brass. I think the Lapua is not only harder, but also necks are thicker.Both shoot well in my 22BR, but the Remington is easier to form. I have a no turn chamber, but I still clean up o.d. of necks for concentricity. Good Luck, it is a great cartridge.
Exactly...I find the same thing with new brass. Expanding, forming and turning new brass seem to always work better after annealing. Not sure if the brass work hardens after the factory annealing or they don't anneal enough? Whatever the case...I have less scrap when annealing new brass.

As for the 22br...I haven't had a collapsed shoulder yet, but did have a split neck right off the bat testing a form die I made. I did NOT annealing it and I bet if it was annealed by me, it would not have split. Odd because my from die only forms the neck down partially. The neck on the die is .254(what the reamer is +/- print tolerance).
 

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