22-250 OAL is growing.

[matticus0314]

Newbie here so bear with me. Trying to learn what I can about handloads.

I have a rem 700 22-250 with a 1:14 SS 26" factory rig came with a Jewell trigger.
I purchased it used and was told it had less then 50 rounds through the tube. Since I have put 1500-1800 reloads thru it mostly on load development and mostly PD(shooting 150-200/day) mostly likely abusing the barrel somewhat but never getting too hot to touch.
My reloads have been:
win and rem brass, win primers
40gr v-max w/ 39.5gr of varget(I shot these for the first 400 rounds not knowing much about reloading)
40gr v-max with 38gr of varget
55gr v-max with 36 gr of varget

My Oal has grown from 2.42" to 2.6" putting the bullet about 0.040" off the lands. Should I keep chasing the lands or be jumping the gap or does it matter? Or am I doing something wrong that wearing out my barrel faster then normal?

 

[fdshuster]

matticus0314: I shot out 3, 22-250 barrels. One a Remington factory, then a Hart, then a Shilen. I also had to keep adjusting bullet seating depts to stay close to the lands. At approx. 1800 rounds fired, .020" of throat erosion is not uncommon. All three of my barrels were done at between 2250 & 2400 rounds fired. The Remington began keyholing at 100 yds., & copper fouling increased, and although the Hart & Shilen never keyholed, groups kept increasing with more copper fouling. A couple hundred rounds more, and I would suspect yours will also be done. The first sign that the end is approaching will probably be the start of unexplained wild shots, maybe 1 out of 20 at first, then 4 out of 20, etc. Excellent cartridge, but the price you pay for that performance. ps: I would take the claim of "less than 50 rounds" with a huge grain of salt. Another ps: I bought a used rem. 700, 243 from a guy, only to get the receiver for a build, and he claimed the rifle had been fired "only a couple of box's". When I used my Hawkeye to see the true condition of the bore, it looked like a sewar pipe, completely worthless & shotout. No rifling for the first 2" in front of the throat. I commented to him that each of those box's must have contained 500 rounds. Paid $250 for a rifle that had an asking price of $450.

 

[matticus0314]

Thanks for the comments fdshuster.

And while I am on the subject is it practical/possible to take that barrel once is it "shot-out" and re-cut or bore it out to a larger caliber? I would love to convert the gun into a 6mmbr, or would it be better to just order a new barrel in the 6br and start that way? Again I would be looking for a cheap way to salvage what I already have keeping in mind that I am looking for a varmint rifle capable of sub .5 moa @ 100yds. I do not have the money to invest 3K on an f-class style rifle.

 

[WyleWD]

Thanks for the comments fdshuster.

And while I am on the subject is it practical/possible to take that barrel once is it "shot-out" and re-cut or bore it out to a larger caliber? I would love to convert the gun into a 6mmbr, or would it be better to just order a new barrel in the 6br and start that way?

I've never heard of anyone re cutting a barrel and if it could be done it would probably cost as much or more than a new barrel. I wouldn't recommend it if someone said they could do it. But that's just me.

As far as going with a new barrel and the 6br, that isn't a bad idea at all. But getting the barrel, getting the smith work done on it, and getting it back in time to shoot it before the first of May or June of this year may be a nerve wracking ordeal. Most of the "best" smiths I've chatted with lately are up to their ears in work and some are working 6 days a week trying to get caught up. Good luck with what ever you decide to do. WD

 

[tome]

cutting the barrel is called a " set back " ..I've seen it done on cmp 22's that have throat problems..most of the time they shot well..but on a center fire , the price of a good barrel is between $300 to $400 plus a gunsmith ( if you can't do the work yourself )..with the set back ..it's a re chamber and a re thread..so there isn't much savings in labor $$$..it's a lot cleaner to re barrel..

 

[matticus0314]

Ok thanks for the input. I am hoping to get one more PD season out of the barrel. It is still shooting .75 @ 100yds with occasional flyers. Then after this summer I will get a barrel and smith lined up (hopefully I can get a retired smith that I know to take on a tinkering project for me .

What is the actual process of changing a rem 700 22-250 to a 6mmbr with a custom barrel as I have never built a gun or switched over to a different caliber. Is it possible to switch between barrels and have both a 22-250 and 6br with the same action or does that not work?

 

[fdshuster]

matticus0314: Cost to re-barrel with a custom handlapped, like a Bartlein, Krieger, Shilen, etc. would be around $500/ $320 for the barrel blank & the balance for the 'smith. Yes, many of us have switch-barrel setups, and change barrels any time we feel like it.

But, before fitting that custom barrel to your factory receiver, it is the accepted practice to have the receiver trued and cleaned up & when that is done, the original barrel would no longer fit. And, why would you ever want to re-install a shot out older barrel, after having a new one fitted?

When the new barrel is fitted, any future new barrels for that receiver could easily be setup to switch-barrel configuration. I have several, no big deal.

 

[hogpatrol]

matticus0314, Just an FYI on a rebarrel job. I am getting my 6br rebarrel job (it was a 22-250) back this week. I sent it to a well known east coast shop APRIL of last year. Everyone I've talked to, even the local one man shops are jammed to the eyeballs with work. If you want something for next year, you need to get crackin' now.

 

[matticus0314]

Thanks for the tips fdshuster and hogpatrol.

It sounds like we need more machinists that will take a liking to guns. I will look into the re-barreling.

Just curious if there are any recommendations for a custom barrel for solely varmint/coyotes. Out of the Bartlein, Krieger, Shilen, Hart, etc is there any that I would be getting more bang for my buck.

 

[areaone]

Mickey Coleman is a great smith excellent turnaround time, pick up a barrel from this site or snipershide, I assumea Rem Var contour, very common on these sites and have your action trued and you are GTG. pm me if you need any sources for a barrel, that is in stock and ready to go. Find Mickey on this site, under smiths on the Home Page.

 

[CanusLatransSnpr]

matticus, all of the barrels that you mentioned are top notch. The Bartleins and Kriegers are cut rifled barrels while the Shilens and Harts are button rifled barreled. Cut rifled barrels involve the actual "removal" of material from the barrel blank while button rifled barrels "displace" material in the blank. The consensus is that cut rifled barrels have had less "stress" induced during the barrel making process but, both shoot very well. Also, I have read that cut rifled barrels have a tendency to "live" a bit longer than button rifled barrels but, I guess it depends on whos shooting said barrel. Either way you go, you're probably going to wait a while for a blank. Unless you find one in the classified section from a fellow forum member. I think you will have a fine shooting rifle when its all said and done no matter which way you go! Good luck!

Mike

 

[matticus0314]

Good to know! Thanks.

 

[fdshuster]

Many retailers like Lester Bruno, Midway, Brownell's, etc. carry a supply of the most popular calibers & twist rates, in stock. I've had the barrel(s) in hand within one week of placing the order. I have placed orders for Hart barrels, over the phone, placed the order, told it would be approx. a 6 week wait, and in no more than four weeks, the brown truck was at my front door. Mike Davis from Zionville NC has also delivered Bartlein & Krieger barrels within one week of the order.

 

[tome]

when you really look at it..to re barell your Remington is at least a $500 bill ( barrel and gunsmith.).a new 700 sps varmint is in the $550 range..swap the triggers ( easy on a Remington ) and sell the action and stock ( say $350 ) and be in a new gun for for $200..another way to skin a cat..when you change calibers in your 22-250 Remington you could go to a 243,308 without having to change the bolt head diameter..for 6mm br you would have to either have the bolt head opened up ( gunsmith $$$ ) or buy a bolt from say pacific tool in the proper head diameter plus the barrel..not cheap..i have Remington's and like them..but i have learned to love Savage's..shoot great..easy to swap barrels.. caliber change...change the bolt head ( if necessary )..both have lots of after market product support..you can make anything you want..it's just easier with a savage

 

[fdshuster]

tome: A quote from your last post: " for 6mm br you would have to either have the bolt head opened up (gunsmith $$$) or buy a bolt--------". I beg to differ with you. The 6BR has the identical case head as the: 22-250, 243, 308, and dozens of other cartridges. Probably the most common one out there.

 

[tome]

you re right..the case diameter is .473..the same as the 22.250..so for a barrel and he's good to go..it still doesn't change the fact that the Sanage is a lot easier to change barrels an bolt head diameter ( bolt head) than the Remington..the big difference is that you didn't need a barrel vice w/ the savage..just an action wrench and a barrel nut wrench..Remington barrels can be a hard way to go if bluing salts and/or scope mount screws have been jammed in the barrel threads..the barrel does nothing but spin in the barrel vice..I've tried leather , brown sugar , wood and nothing but the v blocks..still spins..i only wish that you could hang a Jewell trigger on a Savage..thanks for the correction

 

[fdshuster]

tome: With one of my recent Savage re-barrels ( Hart 6BR to Krieger 6BRX) I did it without the Savage barrel nut. One of the reasons being that I wanted the full 1.250 shank diameter at the receiver end, something you cannot do when using the barrel nut. The diameter must be reduced to approx. 1.060".

I have my switch-barrels set at 65 ft. lbs. of torque, use anti-sieze on the threads, the Davidson barrel vise & rear entry action wrench, making the change a less than 30 minute job.

The barrel is wrapped with 6 or 7 layers of brown shopping bag paper & I have never put a mark on a polished blue, stainless or glass beaded barrel. Cheap & simple & works everytime.

The Remington 700's remain my favorite for a factory receiver to build on because of the availability of the Jewell triggers, ( my Rifle Basix Sav 11 is very good, but still not a jewell), and the wide choice of ready made (and available) dedicated benchrest stocks.

Friend of mine recently waited 6 months to get a BR stock for his Savage. Remington's are available right off the shelf.

Guess the bottom line is, whatever works for you.

 

[matticus0314]

Thanks for all the ideas. I will definitely keep them in mind as I get new rifles.

So far the dream is to keep the 22-250, build an Ar-15 in a 20Practical chamber and have a 6br shooting under .5 moa @ 100yds. Not huge goals but it will take some time to get the funds together.

Thanks again for the help along the way.

 

[GrocMax]

You can jump a bullet a LONG ways and still have decent (minute of prairie dog) accuracy. 22-250 is a throat killer, find the jump distances that shoot good and use it up till it just don't shoot anymore.